1993-1997 Dodge/MOPAR 5.9L/360 Magnum Mods and Manuals

[Bluesky10]

I am looking for a 1993-1997 Dodge 360 Magnum service/overhaul manual/service manual.
I am helping my son rebuild a '96 Magnum for his 74 Road Runner, but all I can find are books and information on the earlier (flat tappet) 360s, and very little on those.
Although the block casting # is 53020006-360 which shows to be a 1993-2005 block.
This engine was given to us for his car, and was thought to have come from a truck. Actually, when my son tore it down it was clean. I am talking gold oil in the covers and pan, and very little signs of wear. I took it to my friend at Brand Engines, and he recommended just a rebuild, so he vatted, honed, installed cam bearings, and polished the crank for us.
This is where I began my learning curve on the 360. I discovered after buying a new set of rings that I needed the 92 and newer 1.5mm and 4mm rings, not the early larger width rings. Now I own a set of Seal Power E-251X standard rings for the 71-76 360s. Before I venture off to newer territory to spend money, I want to get my hands on an actual manual for this series engine. This is my son's first build, and I would like for him to learn the why and how to use a manual too.


Does anyone in FBBO land have or know how I can get my hands on one, or even a pdf download?
Thank you,
Blueskys

 

[toolmanmike]

I am looking for a 1993-1997 Dodge 360 Magnum service/overhaul manual/service manual.
I am helping my son rebuild a '96 Magnum for his 74 Road Runner, but all I can find are books and information on the earlier (flat tappet) 360s, and very little on those.
Although the block casting # is 53020006-360 which shows to be a 1993-2005 block.
This engine was given to us for his car, and was thought to have come from a truck. Actually, when my son tore it down it was clean. I am talking gold oil in the covers and pan, and very little signs of wear. I took it to my friend at Brand Engines, and he recommended just a rebuild, so he vatted, honed, installed cam bearings, and polished the crank for us.
This is where I began my learning curve on the 360. I discovered after buying a new set of rings that I needed the 92 and newer 1.5mm and 4mm rings, not the early larger width rings. Now I own a set of Seal Power E-251X standard rings for the 71-76 360s. Before I venture off to newer territory to spend money, I want to get my hands on an actual manual for this series engine. This is my son's first build, and I would like for him to learn the why and how to use a manual too.
View attachment 1731390

Does anyone in FBBO land have or know how I can get my hands on one, or even a pdf download?
Thank you,
Blueskys

Check out Mymopar for a downloadable manual or ask in a parts wanted ad here. Marketplace forums.

 

[Bluesky10]

Toolmanmike, I will do both. Also, I re-titled the forum to reflect the second part of my posting. It was late last night and it slipped by me. Thank you for your help.
In addition, I am also wanting to hear from others that have completed rebuilds and modifications on these particular later model engines. Keep in mind, this is a young person's car, I want reliability, street cruse ability, and 400 or less HP.
1. What aftermarket or OEM heads and head swaps have others made and ran?
2. Adding to item 1, feedback from others on your head choices and performance obtained.
3. Swapping ideas from OEM induction and EFI to an aftermarket carb or Holley EFI capable intake manifolds.
4. Camshaft selections by brands and grinds, including staying with a roller or reverting back to old school flat tappet.
5. Other items I have not listed but need to know.

If you are interested in the Road Runner project, please visit: 1973/74 Plymouth Road Runner preservation with Q&A Feedback

Thank you,
Blueskys

 

[Bluesky10]

Check out Mymopar for a downloadable manual or ask in a parts wanted ad here. Marketplace forums.

Toolmanmike, I just checked, and My Mopar is only showing manuals up to 1972. Do you know of where I can find manuals into the 90's? I have tried Amazon, ebay, and other sources, but all I can find are more applicable to a car or truck, not specific to the late model 360's. Searching marketplace now. Thank you for your help

 

[YY1]

Larry Shepard book on Magnums-

How to Modify Your Mopar Magnum V8 by Larry Shepard 2005 1st Edition 1st Print | eBay

 

[toolmanmike]

Toolmanmike, I just checked, and My Mopar is only showing manuals up to 1972. Do you know of where I can find manuals into the 90's? I have tried Amazon, ebay, and other sources, but all I can find are more applicable to a car or truck, not specific to the late model 360's. Searching marketplace now. Thank you for your help

Start a Parts wanted ad here. May be someone will have one to sell. I bought my reprint at The Nats years ago. That's relative late model for most of the suppliers so an ad might be the way to go.

 

[Bluesky10]

Will do. I also just sent a bid to the seller YY1 sent me to.
Thank you,

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I used to have an account over at Dakotart.com the boys over there have done everything you can imagine to the Magnum engine. From 408 stroker to a EFI 6 pack home made intake.

 

[toolmanmike]

I am looking for a 1993-1997 Dodge 360 Magnum service/overhaul manual/service manual.
I am helping my son rebuild a '96 Magnum for his 74 Road Runner, but all I can find are books and information on the earlier (flat tappet) 360s, and very little on those.
Although the block casting # is 53020006-360 which shows to be a 1993-2005 block.
This engine was given to us for his car, and was thought to have come from a truck. Actually, when my son tore it down it was clean. I am talking gold oil in the covers and pan, and very little signs of wear. I took it to my friend at Brand Engines, and he recommended just a rebuild, so he vatted, honed, installed cam bearings, and polished the crank for us.
This is where I began my learning curve on the 360. I discovered after buying a new set of rings that I needed the 92 and newer 1.5mm and 4mm rings, not the early larger width rings. Now I own a set of Seal Power E-251X standard rings for the 71-76 360s. Before I venture off to newer territory to spend money, I want to get my hands on an actual manual for this series engine. This is my son's first build, and I would like for him to learn the why and how to use a manual too.
View attachment 1731390

Does anyone in FBBO land have or know how I can get my hands on one, or even a pdf download?
Thank you,
Blueskys

This book includes LA and Magnum engines. There are others out there. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Smal...32-b8cb-5e7533f2cd40&pd_rd_i=B08DL566V1&psc=1

 

[Bluesky10]

Thank you BeepBeepRR, I will look into your recommendations.

toolmanmike, thank you for your recommendation. The one you recommended was not the one I have. I have a hard copy on the way.

Thank you,

 

[Bluesky10]

BeepBeepRR, Is this the correct group?

 

[Bluesky10]

Its on the way. Thank you YY1:

 

[Bluesky10]

Hello again all, I purchased the books, and still have a question on the 1996 Magnum conversion to a carb and HEI style ignition.

1. Has anyone here run the Assault intake https://assaultracing.com/browse?category=8104&keyword=intake
2. If yes, and used a carb and a non-ECM triggered ignition, what distributor did you use?

Larry Shepard's book, How to Modify only states in the Distributor section on page 196, use the A-engine distributor. The performance package section says: "Use the stock or the P/N: P3690430".

This brings up new questions about timing, ignition boxes (MSD/Stock/Other) and more. Since the later Magnums are crank and or cam triggered, how did you overcome. I am thinking degree tape on the stock balancer, or aftermarket balance, of which I have not even looked for yet. Figured I would ask those that have traveled this path.

Anyone here ever made this modification and have any ideas?

Thank you,
Blueskys

 

[Bobzilla]

Hello again all, I purchased the books, and still have a question on the 1996 Magnum conversion to a carb and HEI style ignition.

1. Has anyone here run the Assault intake https://assaultracing.com/browse?category=8104&keyword=intake
2. If yes, and used a carb and a non-ECM triggered ignition, what distributor did you use?

Larry Shepard's book, How to Modify only states in the Distributor section on page 196, use the A-engine distributor. The performance package section says: "Use the stock or the P/N: P3690430".

This brings up new questions about timing, ignition boxes (MSD/Stock/Other) and more. Since the later Magnums are crank and or cam triggered, how did you overcome. I am thinking degree tape on the stock balancer, or aftermarket balance, of which I have not even looked for yet. Figured I would ask those that have traveled this path.

Anyone here ever made this modification and have any ideas?

Thank you,
Blueskys

Don't buy any more parts until you fully understand the differences between Magnum and LA engines. They are not difficult to deal with but as you found with the rings there are differences.

That intake will work for a carbureted application. Not the best intake, but a good budget intake for a vehicle seeing mostly street duty.

If running a Magnum engine carbureted you can use any LA distributor and ignition system and treat it as though it is an LA. If the vehicle already had an LA engine with electronic distributor and ignition, as an example, that would drop right into the Magnum engine.

When running a Magnum carbureted you no longer need the crankshaft sensor or cam sync/position sensor from the Magnum distributor. Just ignore those parts and forget about them when running carbureted.

If the vehicle is getting an electric fuel pump you can run the Magnum serpentine belt accessory drive, water pump, timing cover, alternator, and power steering pump setup. If keeping a mechanical LA style fuel pump you must use an LA timing cover, LA water pump and accessories, and LA style v-belts.

If you have the original Magnum camshaft and hydraulic roller lifters you can reuse the lifters and send the camshaft to Oregon Cam Grinders to get it reground for more performance. Give them a call and they will help choose a grind for your combination. This will require new pushrods, but it saves a bunch of money and aggravation over a new cam and lifters. If regrinding the original cam and trying to run an LA style mechanical fuel pump you will need a camshaft snout extension like the ones sold by Mancini Racing or Hughes Engines. If running electric fuel pump and Magnum front accessories you do not need this extension.

You asked about cylinder heads too. This hard to explain in a typed message, but here it goes. You need to first check the block deck surface to see if it is drilled for LA rocker arm oiling. Earlier blocks were drilled for LA oiling but this 96 model year may not be drilled. That is not a bad thing necessarily, but will dictate which rocker arms can or cannot be used on this, and ultimately which heads. If you want to run the factory Magnum rocker arms, you have to have Magnum heads, and the only Magnum heads I know currently available is the Chines cast iron stock replacement heads sold by many vendors. Speedmaster, Engine Quest, Jeg's store brand, etc. They are all very similar new castings sourced from China. They work fine on stock and modified engines when setup correctly with a good valve job and correct valve guide clearance, but will require cutting down the valve guides a little if a large/aggressive enough camshaft is used. Check retainer to guide clearance before final assembly to be sure. These heads do not require the LA oiling holes I mentioned.
Next is Edelbrock Magnum RPM heads. These are good heads that also do not require the LA oiling holes I mentioned but they use Chevy style rockers arms that must be purchased separately. No way around the rocker arms on these, but Chevy rockers are not too expensive.
Next is LA style heads like Edelbrock RPM, Speedmaster, and any others. These will require a complete LA rocker arm system to be purchased and care must be taken to get the right stuff. If the block has the LA oiling holes I mentioned and the cam bearings with oil holes were installed with the holes lined up you can run any LA rocker arms because it oil as though it is an LA, but this ONLY works if the camshaft is an LA style cam because it will be drilled too, so a Magnum regrind cannot be used in this case if the holes are not present. If LA style heads are used on a Magnum block without the LA oiling, you must run a rocker arm that will fit an LA head but oil through the pushrods. These would be Comp Cams Ultra Magnum and the copies of these like PRW, or the Mancini Racing rocker arms made for this application.

That is probably enough for now. Let it all soak in and feel free to ask any questions for anything I missed or anything that needs clarification.

 

[Bobzilla]

Oh, one more thing that is important. If using an older transmission like a 904 or 727, you will need to address the 5.9 Magnum balance that is different to an LA 360. Mancini Racing and Hughes Engines sell flex plates with Magnum weight to allow use of a regular neutral balanced torque converter. You can sometimes use the original Magnum flex plate on a 904 or 727 by slotting one of the torque converter bolt holes, but the new flex plates are stronger.

If the weight difference I am explaining makes sense and you have the resources or ability, you could also transfer (weld) the 5.9 Magnum weight from the truck transmission onto the torque converter being used, but the position is very important. Cross that bridge when you get to it.

 

[Bluesky10]

Bob Zilla, this is a lot of great information. Amazing thing is, it is better explained than any of the books I have read. I plan to print it and attach it to my Larry Shepard book. Your information will make a great addition and something my son can have in the future.

I owned a couple of 318s and a 360 back in the late 70s and early 80s, but never ventured too deep into them. This is my first go at a late model MOPAR, but when my youngest son actually showed an intrest in cars and wanted my 74 RR project, how could I say no.

Luckly, we picked up a (.030 over, .010 .010 crank , mild cam, MSD distributor, Edelbrock dual plane with a Holley 600 single feed atop, tossed in the headers and a fresh exhaust system) 318 from a friends 74 RR I can strip the brackets and Pullys off of. He thought he had winterized it a couple of years ago, but there was enough water below the freeze plugs that it broke the block on both sides. I told him we would pull it for my son's experience and by the time we had it all piled in my van, and he was so impressed with my kid's willingness and ability to jump in and under to get it done, he ended up selling him the complete engine, brackets, accessories and the 727 behind it for 200 bucks. He had a 440 in the corner and a well-built transmission he was going to install.




I already bought a stock bore 318 that will clean up to .030, and plan to build it for another 74 I have with the internals I have.


Thank you for all of your help. I am sure I will have more questions as we move forward and post his build for others that find themselves in our situation.

 

[YY1]

What did you do with the side molding from my car??

...and how did you get my car?
Do I need to go look outside?

 

[Bluesky10]

Cool, YY1 you have one clean machine.

I tried to buy the car too. It was very clean and since it needed an engine, tranny, and finishing up the interior, I figured I could get it cheaper. You know, a good friend deal.