4-Speed Clutch and Other Questions

[MoparHonda]

Just bought a '70 GTX with a four-speed.

The clutch is really hard to press. Why? Jacked the car up, looked at the mechanism. I don't see any lubrication points or grease fittings. (I have a three speed manual column shift car. That clutch is like a feather, easy, and there is a grease fitting. I've also had two four-speed Hondas, both were easy.)

Also, what is the most common cause of the reverse light not working?

 

[HawkRod]

I have a 70 Road Runner with a 4 speed, so same setup.

The linkage for the clutch uses a "Z bar" that pivots the clutch push and directs it back to the transmission. The Z bar sits under the master cylinder. Check that out to be sure it is not binding or causing any issues. This might be a bit of a PITA. There is an access panel from the driver side wheel well that allows access to one side. The you will need to disconnect some of the connecting rods.

If I would you, I would take out the Z-Bar, check and re-grease it and then reinstall and make sure it works well without binding. While it is out, you can check the clutch pedal as well.

After this is done, check the action of the clutch again. Note that three finger performance clutches are pretty hard to press, so this could just be your clutch.

Finally, if it is still hard to push, there are a couple of possibilities. (a) Install a new clutch that has easier action and/or (b) install a hydraulic clutch instead of the Z-bar.

Hope this helps,

Hawk

 

[MoparHonda]

Thank you, Hawk, will try that.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Could be lots of things. Has the clutch linkage been changed from stock? Does it have the correct clutch fork and the right bellhouse pivot?. do you have the right Z bar? If you have the 3 finger pressure plate, is the clutch pedal Overcenter spring hooked up? Has someone put in a extra heavy duty clutch in it? ....................................MO

 

[MoparHonda]

Thank you, Cornpatch. The linkage is all stock and correct, far as I know. Not sure what you mean by 'overcenter spring'. There is a long spring that goes from the Z bar to a hook near the front of the car. Is that the 'overcenter spring'?

No idea as to the type of clutch, just bought the car and the seller also did not know.

What's the most common cause for the reverse light to not work? Burned out bulb?

 

[Photon440]

Overcenter spring...the large spring in the bottom of the photo on this link:
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CPA70B

It pulls on the pedal lever and does a lot of the work for you.

 

[PlumcrazyRR]

The over center spring is pictured below. As far as the reverse light goes, you can turn the car on and put it in reverse and check to see if you have any power going to the indicator. If you have power, then bad bulb. If not, check your connection on the back up switch at the tranny. If your connection is good and your cable is good, then it is either a bad back up switch or the reverse shifter is not making contact for some reason.



And Photon beat me to the pic it looks like

 

[MoparHonda]

Thank you, Photon and PlumCrazyRR.

The overcenter spring is there, up at the top, sure is a big spring.

HMMMM. I presume that backup switch in the transmission also controls the back-up lights? So, bad switch in the transmission would mean that both the reverse light and the backup lights would not work? (Sure is hard to get to the backside of that reverse light.)

 

[PlumcrazyRR]

Give me just a minute. I think I might have had a case of the stupids. Been a long day. Let me look back through my service manual.

Actually, do your back up lights work? That will at least let you know that it is not a bad switch. And now that I am thinking back on it, the wire from the reverse light in the dash ties into the bulkhead from what I recall. And there are two wires, one ground and one that goes to the light. Could be a bad ground going to the reverse light in the dash.

 

[GTX MATT]

It probably has a 3 finger borg and beck. If you're not used to performance clutches and drive late model regular cars you will find most borg and becks with 2000+ static pressure to be heavy. Chances are you're used to light static pressure diaphragm clutches with a hydraulic setup. Ever drive a truck that was stick?

Take the inspection cover off, take a picture of the pressure plate, and report back to us. I'm guessing its a Hays Street/Strip, 2600 lb static load :grin:

 

[Rocketman]

Just bought a '70 GTX with a four-speed.

The clutch is really hard to press. Why? Jacked the car up, looked at the mechanism. I don't see any lubrication points or grease fittings. (I have a three speed manual column shift car. That clutch is like a feather, easy, and there is a grease fitting. I've also had two four-speed Hondas, both were easy.)

Also, what is the most common cause of the reverse light not working?

Mine was hard as well, bought this kit and it is a very soft pedal now which I don't like really.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4529447/overview/

 

[MoparHonda]

Thank you, Matt and RocketMan.

RocketMan, you say your clutch was hard, you installed the kit, and now it's easy? Do you have the same three finger Borg and Beck that Matt is referring to? That sure seems to be an easy way to solve my problem.

(Never drove a manual shift truck.)

 

[GTX MATT]

The kit likely helped RocketMan because his bushings were no good and making the pedal harder to operate. The bushings and the Z bar are supposed to have grease in/on them, but you can't really grease it unless its apart.

 

[Rocketman]

Thank you, Matt and RocketMan.

RocketMan, you say your clutch was hard, you installed the kit, and now it's easy? Do you have the same three finger Borg and Beck that Matt is referring to? That sure seems to be an easy way to solve my problem.

(Never drove a manual shift truck.)

I am not sure to be honest, not as much of a gear head as most of these guys. I know this was easy to get to on my car

As Matt states above my bushings were all to pieces, but my linkage require some modification to make the pivot bolt fit like it was designed to do.

 

[wedge69]

My 60 Z/bar had a hole in the middle of the shaft. I tapped it out and put a Grease fitting in it and use to grease it till grease showed to the out ends. I know it's not there for that But it worke great for me !

 

[MoparHonda]

Thank you, gentlemen.

I'll grease that Z bar and see what happens.

Yes, the backup lights work. Saw those wires going into the bulkhead connector, will check the connections there.

 

[MoparHonda]

OK, went to take that Z bar (torsion rod is the actual name) off, found a weird lock washer, not sure how to get that off and back on. The weird lock washer is on the shaft coming out of the floor, the shaft that goes to the clutch. The other shaft on the Z bar goes to the clutch fork, that has a standard lock washer, just pull it off and push it back on.

It's in the upper right of the attached photo.

 

[MoparHonda]

View attachment 188262

 

[MoparHonda]

OK, took that Z bar off, found the ball stud on the engine side had worn down to an oval shape, causing the bushing to slip off. Bought that kit mentioned above, replaced all the stuff, greased everything, re-installed the z-bar, clutch now seems easier to operate. Thank you to all who responded.

Question: I noticed that the fork rod (that threaded shaft that connects the clutch fork to the z-bar) on my car is somewhat bent or curved. Is it supposed to be bent or curved? I would think that it should be straight?

 

[383man]

I was going to say the bushings used to wear out and over time driving with them worn it eats into the ball studs. Thats a nice kit Rocketman got as it has all the bushings. I dont knowq off the top of my head where to get the ball studs at but it would not be a bad idea to replace both of them being the one bolted on the bellhousing and the one on the inner fenderwell. I thought some Z-bars actually did have a grease fitting on them buts its a good idea as was said here to put a grease fitting on the Z-bar so you can pump some grease in it sometimes. Ron