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4 speed in my Superbee

pwtjr

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Have a couple of questions regarding some "issues" on my 4 speed Superbee.

First one is about the shifter itself. It is a modern Hurst. It has a thin plate that looks like it sandwiches between the shifter and the mounting plate that is bolted to the transmission. Does it go between the shifter and that plate or on the outside of the shifter itself ?

Reason I'm asking is the car is fresh out of the garage after a lengthy engine swap from 383 to 440. I had issues with the shift from 2nd to 3rd in the past. Now the thing doesn't even want to go into 3rd and grinds when trying to slip it in 4th.

Not sure what my issue is but my 2nd question is this: If adjusting the rods a bit and the stops on the shifter are no help, Im assuming removing the side cover and looking inside is the next step. Please don't make fun of me, but transmissions scare me and are a bit of a voodoo in my mind. IF I TAKE THAT COVER OFF WHILE THE TRANS IS STILL IN THE CAR, IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD BE AWARE OF BEFORE HAND? LIKE LITTLE DETENT BALLS FALLING DOWN IN THE CASE OR CLIPS ETC? Any tips on removal and assembly and what I should be looking for specifically?
I have a feeling I should have checked the internals via removing the cover PRIOR to reinstalling since it occasionally gave me prior issues when really shifting hard from 2nd to 3rd.
Shoulda Coulda Woulda ....


Thanks for any help.
 
I am not sure on your shifter questions but if you take the side cover off there are 2 ball detents that could fall out. First remove the nuts and washers and then slide the linkage off, then replace the nuts and washers before removing bolts to side cover. This will help hold the shifter paddles in place as well as the ball detents. Loosen side cover bolts and remove cover as a unit. Check the obvious first, how worn are the shifter paddles? Then feel around in the bottom of the transmission for chunks of metal. This may give you a clew if there is anything is broke and needs replacing. See if you have 1/2 of this laying in the bottom. http://brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=14 SK69 SYNCHRONIZER SHIFT STRUT/KEY 1968-69 NEW
If you find anything, you have to pull for the rebuild. The service manual covers it well. First one I ever did, its not that hard. Just follow the steps!
Hopefully someone will chime in and tell you how to adjust the linkage.
 
The flexible plate goes inside the shifter body. I will check tomorrow as to its position.. I would correct the shifter assembly before removing the trans cover. Hurst use to have good instructions as to the disassemble and parts placement on their web site. If you do the work to your shifter pay close attention to the shift pin for ware it must look the same all the way around its perimeter and not have any rounded edges.
 
X2 with mopar 3 B. Work with the shifter 1st. With any luck you won't have to open up the tranny.
 
There is a YouTube video that will guide you through proper shifter assembly.
Hurt Compeittion Plus 4 Spd Rebuild on you tube. They are not that hard to go thru I have done them many times over the years. No special tools required. Hurst will do this for you for a fee and replace all worn parts or sell a rebuild kit.
 
Well with some patience adjusting shifter stops and rods it is now shifting pretty good and no unusual noises. The 3-4 shift arm doesnt fit super tight on there so I think replacing that piece will be something I do pretty soon. So from what I'm gathering, I can just pop those arms off, and put the attaching nuts back on there then remove the side cover and all that stuff should stay put and not fall into the case? Take the cover assembly over to the bench and replace the shift mechanisms. I see they are not too expensive. Have a good look at the sychros and gears while I have it off and go from there. It is the original trans to the car so maybe over the winter I can muster up the balls to go thru it myself. Ive rebuilt several engines but tranny work still scares me as I don't have any special tools and what not to make the job easier. I see the basic rebuild kit is only a little over a hundred dollars. I dunno, just want to drive it this summer while the weather is nice here in Indiana.
Atleast it is shifting for now.
Thanks for the info guys.
 
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