440 /6pac carb kits ?

[63SPF]

Aloha, I just scored ! 440/6pac intake and carbs. I Need to rebuild ! Need a good place to get carb. Kits ? And any help would be great ! Mahalo, C

 

[RJRENTON]

63SPF,
A few comments first.
IMHO....
1. Throw away all the fuel line pieces. Totally incorrect, fuel comes in from the ftont.
2. Some "expert" (??) Removed all of the center carb's choke linkage and parts, including the choke shaft and choke plate.
3. The same "expert", modified the linkage on the drivers side to mechanically open the end carbs simultaneously with the center carb....why?
4., Without totally dis-assembling the carbs individually, its difficult to determine if this "expert" modified any of the interal metering components.
5. Because the linkages have been bastardized, it is likely that the end carb diaphragms have been "modified" by the "expert".
6. Upon closer inspection and examination there may be other changes.
7. Are the carbs original (check the R numbers and build date codes) or they a different pieces and parts.
8. Are you making a tribute restoration or restoring a REAL V code car?
Rebuild kits are available from Holley, along with the replacement of the missing choke psrts. Standard motor products also sells excellent kits. Off brand rebuild kits use a modified fuel inlet adjustment arrangement. Depending on the degree of correctness you want or can afford, there are several very competent restorerers....not inexpensive though. How good a job can you afford?

First impression of your purchase: it looks as if everything went thru a **** storm. The Mopar six barrel/six pack is a thing of beauty and a joy forever (my feelings) and when set up correctly, it will perforn excellently (my opinion). Hopefully, the $$$$$ you spent on the purchase will be less than $$$$ it will take to refurbish the carbs back to their origional functionality and appearance. There is an old expression: CAVIET EMPTOR....let the buyer beware.... definitely applies here. Just my opinion of course.
PS ...I own an origional RS23VOA GTX with numbers matching setup.
Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[63SPF]

63SPF,
A few comments first.
IMHO....
1. Throw away all the fuel line pieces. Totally incorrect, fuel comes in from the ftont.
2. Some "expert" (??) Removed all of the center carb's choke linkage and parts, including the choke shaft and choke plate.
3. The same "expert", modified the linkage on the drivers side to mechanically open the end carbs simultaneously with the center carb....why?
4., Without totally dis-assembling the carbs individually, its difficult to determine if this "expert" modified any of the interal metering components.
5. Because the linkages have been bastardized, it is likely that the end carb diaphragms have been "modified" by the "expert".
6. Upon closer inspection and examination there may be other changes.
7. Are the carbs original (check the R numbers and build date codes) or they a different pieces and parts.
8. Are you making a tribute restoration or restoring a REAL V code car?
Rebuild kits are available from Holley, along with the replacement of the missing choke psrts. Standard motor products also sells excellent kits. Off brand rebuild kits use a modified fuel inlet adjustment arrangement. Depending on the degree of correctness you want or can afford, there are several very competent restorerers....not inexpensive though. How good a job can you afford?

First impression of your purchase: it looks as if everything went thru a **** storm. The Mopar six barrel/six pack is a thing of beauty and a joy forever (my feelings) and when set up correctly, it will perforn excellently (my opinion). Hopefully, the $$$$$ you spent on the purchase will be less than $$$$ it will take to refurbish the carbs back to their origional functionality and appearance. There is an old expression: CAVIET EMPTOR....let the buyer beware.... definitely applies here. Just my opinion of course.
PS ...I own an origional RS23VOA GTX with numbers matching setup.
Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

Aloha, and mahalo, My uncle gave me the set up !
He is the "Expert" and parts are hard to find here in Hawaii and he is old school. so he just made do with what he had.
I am not restoring a numbers matching car, I just want it to Look real and run damn good on my 440/6pac 4speed .
I am actually going to put it in my 67 Bcuda , but I thought I would talk to my brothers on FBBO as more of you have 6pac cars !
I will not be racing my car , so I just need it to run well. everyday use if possible ?
As I got the setup for free, I don't mind dropping a few hun. or MORE in restoring it back to factory specs. or a little better if so be ! Mahalo C

 

[493 Mike]

Check these:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1435028,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964
Nike

 

[tak419]

Autozone also sell the kits. I bought mine there last year.

 

[RJRENTON]

63SPF,
Perhaps you should go back to your Uncle to see if he still has the pieces he removed. Would save you a few $$.
To be brutally honest, the best thing your Uncle should have done was to leave it the way the factory designed it. There are just too many "experts" that think they know the "best" way to fix a non existent (but perceived) issue. It seems as if the day, when carb fundamentals were taught, they were absent that day.
Rather than fumbling and blindly proceeding, investigate several of the premier carb rebuilders mentioned on this forum. They have both the skills, parts, and experience to restore your items to origional appearance and functionality. My opinion: spend the $$$$ and have it done correctly by someone that knows how, even if it means sending back to the mainland.
Since you did not pay for the setup, spend the $$$$ to make it look correct and function like what you expect. My guess on the approximate cost to restore all stuff to like new appearance and functionality is: $1500-$2000 including shipping to/from the mainland.
BTW.....I've visited your state several times on vacation.... Maui, Kauai, the Big ISLAND.....MAGNIFICENT in all regards......I just wish I could afford to live there.....i'll be going back next year .... maybe to Kona??
Best of luck with your project....keep us informed.
Cheers,
Bob Renton

 

[Daves69]

Here's a source with part numbers that may help.........….
http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetor-parts.php?c=2354

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Your setup is in better shape than mine when I started. I strongly suggest you put it all back stock & work from there. The "old school" tricks I used on 6-packs back in the 80's didn't work very well. I suggest you see if you can find some "pin gages" or small drill bits to check the various holes. The main places to check are the power valve holes (behind the power valve) and the fuel bleed holes (name?) on the top/outer edges of the end carburetor metering plates (these holes are often drilled out).

 

[RJRENTON]

Your setup is in better shape than mine when I started. I strongly suggest you put it all back stock & work from there. The "old school" tricks I used on 6-packs back in the 80's didn't work very well. I suggest you see if you can find some "pin gages" or small drill bits to check the various holes. The main places to check are the power valve holes (behind the power valve) and the fuel bleed holes (name?) on the top/outer edges of the end carburetor metering plates (these holes are often drilled out).

PB,
I believe the "old school tricks" that you refer to is the school of hard knocks. Over the years, Holley published some wonderfully descriptive manuals that explained the how and why of the various systems operate. Unfortunately, many of the self proclaimed "experts" never read or read and did not understand the terminology or subscribed to the next door's neighbor's brother-in-law's cousin's best buddy's friend's total lack of knowledge but was influenced by his B.S. How sad.... BTW....the name you search for is primary metering block emulsion tube air bleeds. The emulsion tubes are part of the primary (and sometimes on secondary) metering blocks on the 4150 designs) and the small orifices behind the power valve are called power valve channel restrictions which meter the fuel into the primary main wells when ever the power valve opens. Just thought you'd like to know.
Bob Renton

 

[tak419]

I think post got was off topic. The op asked for place to get rebuild kits, he received a couple proper responses. Seems all the comments knocking his carbs and uncle wasn't called for. He didn't ask for advice on how to restore them. And we don't know how well they ran or didn't run in the past, just because the fuel lines come in a different direction won't effect the way they run, and someone who makes his own linkage doesn't deserve the battering he is an "expert" comment. I seen many old timers run mutli carbs with homemade linkage and some ran damn great and those guys could've taught some of the guys on here some tuning tips. Why do these post so many times turn away from the original topic. 73SPF wish you luck in getting the rebuild kits.

 

[RJRENTON]

I think post got was off topic. The op asked for place to get rebuild kits, he received a couple proper responses. Seems all the comments knocking his carbs and uncle wasn't called for. He didn't ask for advice on how to restore them. And we don't know how well they ran or didn't run in the past, just because the fuel lines come in a different direction won't effect the way they run, and someone who makes his own linkage doesn't deserve the battering he is an "expert" comment. I seen many old timers run mutli carbs with homemade linkage and some ran damn great and those guys could've taught some of the guys on here some tuning tips. Why do these post so many times turn away from the original topic. 73SPF wish you luck in getting the rebuild kits.

Maybe, maybe not. The comment re the linkage is in response to the person's desire to have it work properly. Perhaps the person that performed the modifications to the linkage also fixes shoes (a little sarcasm). Since the intended car is a tribute or resto mod, it doesn't matter....it just won't run correctly for what is being emulated. If you want to see what a real V code car looks like, look at my photo garage....it runs as good as it looks. Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[tak419]

I know what a real v code looks like. Just because linkage isn't factory looking doesn't mean it doesn't run right. You don't know the running condition of the carbs but you assume because they are correct looking they don't work. Maybe you should go to a race track and check out some cars that run damn good, bet not all they're linkage is oem looking. I grew up going to Norwalk raceway Park ( now Summit Raceway park) watching my buddies family and friends drag race. Those good ole boys were straight out of the hills if WV and was raising families and doing what they could to put cars together and those cars were damn fast. One holding track records and I can tell you they weren't oem looking and a lot of stuff homemade and thrown together. That six-pack set up may have ran excellent. He asked for advice on where to get a rebuild kit, that was all. I'm closing myself out of this post. Good evening.

 

[63SPF]

Mahalo All !

 

[RJRENTON]

I know what a real v code looks like. Just because linkage isn't factory looking doesn't mean it doesn't run right. You don't know the running condition of the carbs but you assume because they are correct looking they don't work. Maybe you should go to a race track and check out some cars that run damn good, bet not all they're linkage is oem looking. I grew up going to Norwalk raceway Park ( now Summit Raceway park) watching my buddies family and friends drag race. Those good ole boys were straight out of the hills if WV and was raising families and doing what they could to put cars together and those cars were damn fast. One holding track records and I can tell you they weren't oem looking and a lot of stuff homemade and thrown together. That six-pack set up may have ran excellent. He asked for advice on where to get a rebuild kit, that was all. I'm closing myself out of this post. Good evening.

I totally understand perfectly how a six barrel setup works....its not a total matter of linkage but fuel distribution patterns, fuel ratio per cylinder, cam shaft specifics, engine compression ratio, rate and total advance characteristics, piston top design, and burn characteristics, and a few other considerations. You mentioned what your friends and their families accomplished....but what about your efforts? FYI...My efforts were mid 11s and 110 mph with 4:10 Dana 60 gears....not too bad...for a heavy car, but parts are just too expensive and becoming harder to find to risk catastrophic failure/damage. BTW my engine ran on a dyno producing approximately 511Hp at 6300 RPM (corrected for air density and temperature) with exhaust gas temps running at ~ 1200° F all within 15° of each other...not too bad. Just thought you might like to know.
Bob Renton

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Mahalo All !

Shaka

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Well, the "modifications" I was referring to were found in the back of the old Direct Connection Engine Manual. There were several "carb tuning specs" listed for six pack motors. I seem to recall with & without headers being two options or something like that. I drilled out the holes per the D.C. book, put in the lightest springs, added a 50cc accelerator pump, etc, etc on the set of carbs I'm running now & it performs a lot better now that I've got the carbs back to almost stock.

 

[63SPF]

So, FYI . Not To Get Anyone Mad ! But I am planning on using it with a 4speed !
The 6pac was off an auto ! Any changes that I need to make ?
1975 440 cast crank stock bottom with 488 purple cam, 67 915CC heads.
10.5 Bellhousing with stock clutch for now. until I get any bugs worked out !
833/4speed to a 3.91 Sure grip shortened 8.75 rear !
Much Mahalo & Shaka Bradda ! C

 

[63SPF]

Anyone got a 6pac air cleaner they would sell ?

 

[33 IMP]

Since you are putting it into a car that never had a sixpack available, it doesn't have to "look right" to the purists. Therefore you can let your budget be your guide. There are fiberglass repops and steel repops around . Steel of course costs more. Originals sometimes show up, but are very costly! If it were me, id look into the fiberglass ones.
Also, there are 340 and 440 versions. Make sure of what you are looking at.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Perf...Lha9eW4:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!95358!US!-1