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440 block help

c_callen

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I found a couple bare 440 blocks for $200 apiece. Also has a few odds and ends that have already been pulled. One is a 76 and the other a 77. Good base for a stroker or no? And is $200 fair
 
I found a couple bare 440 blocks for $200 apiece. Also has a few odds and ends that have already been pulled. One is a 76 and the other a 77. Good base for a stroker or no? And is $200 fair

I'd say $200 is fair if the bores are ok and not cracked or excessively rusted
 
$200 is decent, I picked up a bare block 75 440 and a 727 trans for $250. Bring a mic with you and confirm the bores are within spec, also check for excessive rust
 
You won't know if they are good for a stroker build until they get cleaned and sonic checked. I like the later blocks myself - they seem to be more consistent in terms of casting quality.
 
I picked up a 76 400 for $300 and it did not pass sonic check. Four front bores checked at .059, .054 on the left and .059, .056 on the right and much heavier on the opposite side. Bad case of core shift I guess. The guy I got it from might have another, I hope.
 
I picked up a 76 400 for $300 and it did not pass sonic check. Four front bores checked at .059, .054 on the left and .059, .056 on the right and much heavier on the opposite side. Bad case of core shift I guess. The guy I got it from might have another, I hope.

How much does a sonic test typically run? I'm looking for a new block myself
 
If a bare block, be sure to get all the main caps.
 
The test depends on the place doing it. I get $200 for mine, but I have a certified tester and give 24 readings per bore so you can really see the details. I've seen a lot cheaper, but cheap equipment and a few spots per bore are a waste of drinking money.
 
The test depends on the place doing it. I get $200 for mine, but I have a certified tester and give 24 readings per bore so you can really see the details. I've seen a lot cheaper, but cheap equipment and a few spots per bore are a waste of drinking money.

A sonic test is the best way to check the condition of a block right? I know these blocks aren't meant for tons and tons of power so I just want to make sure I start off with the best foundation possible, at least as far as a factory block goes.
 
Sonic testing tells you what the parts of the block are you can't see. It is used to test pipe integrity, the engine guys just decided to use it for their benefit. It can locate issues within the casting, and tell the thickness from one side. So head porting, cylinder bores, etc. But it only reads where the transducer is. So one test in one spot isn't enough. I do 5 spots from the base to the deck, then run a continuous scan up the line. This tells you thickness and if there's any rust pits or casting flaws that left a weak spot. Some cheaper testers come loaded with frequencies for certain base materials. Good ones are set up for the material they are testing by using that material. A cheap tester might run $300. A good one four times that.
 
I picked up a 76 400 for $300 and it did not pass sonic check. Four front bores checked at .059, .054 on the left and .059, .056 on the right and much heavier on the opposite side. Bad case of core shift I guess. The guy I got it from might have another, I hope.
u guys know about the thrust side being the most important don`t you ?
 
I should have mentioned - blocks are usually designed thicker on the two thrust sides: major and minor. In terms of compass points - Major is the "East", Minor is the "West" when standing at the rear of the block facing forward and looking down on a given bore. The pin axis are North and South. In most cases, the core shift is between the major and minor thrust directions. Most guys have their own minimums for those points so I'll keep mine to myself.

I'd have failed that 400 block even if the pin axis was that thin. I have sleeved for the pin axis areas being too thin for my taste. But honestly - I consider myself conservative. The B wedge 496 (383 base) making a little shy of 600hp failed my sonic test...lol. Four years and 20K miles later it's still fine and we're talking about cam swaps...
 
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