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452 head rebuild ?

adk-roadrunner

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So Im trying to decide what I want to do I have my 452 heads at the maching shop as part of my engine rebuild. I planned on rebuilding these stock heads and using them for now and they looked pretty good. After a couple weeks the machinist called me and said that the guides and seats are trashed and the original price of 50.00 for cleaning and refurbishing heads wasn't accurate and it was gonna be $320.00 for the pair and thats with stock valves and doesn't include the springs. So now im trying to decide what to do rebuild or ditch. He also told me if I wanted stainless valves it would be an additional $200.00 for the valves. does anyone know what the valve specs are so I can price them myself.
 
2.08 and 1.74. That's a decent price on head work. You probably don't need stainless valves. Use the stock ones.
 
Or you can get reconditioned 452 heads from Indy Cylinder Head for $600 with the larger 2.14 and 1.81 stainless valves with .509 lift springs.
 
Yup, Aerohead (child company) of Indy makes refurbished heads for about the same price with the good stuff for about 499 a pop, add 100 for 452, 906, or 915s. It is the best bang for the buck unless you go up to a set of stealth 440 source heads, which i run and love, but they are $999.

Mike

here is the link

http://www.aeroheadracing.com/
 
When his shop will do the heads he has for 320, why in hell would he buy other heads for 600 or 499 and pay shipping on top of that? I think some of yall flunked math.
 
Sure it is his money. However, why styop at $320, when after springs he will be close to $430, why stop their when at$ 499, he can have a decent set of heads he can grow into if he wants to start to play with the thing?

Mike
 
I was thinkin cause it's his money and his decision. But I'm just crazy like that.
 
^ RustyRatrod, nothing wrong with your logic either, just two different ways oif looking at it. If money is an issue, you are 100% right.

mike
 
Springs might be around $200.00 or less depending on what you get. I'm with Rusty. The heads are already in the shop and the guy has some time invested already. Does that $320.00 include hard seats? If so that's a killer deal.
 
Yes I do believe all is included minus the cost valves and springs. The original cost was 50.00 for both heads to be disassembled cleaned checked and reassembled stock with upgraded valve seals as well. He then called and said seats and guides were trashed and would need work as well 320.00 for both but does not include springs and if I want stainless valves it would be another 200.00. Have any of you guys ever heard of EPN valves I found a smoking deal on a set of stainless 2.14 and 1.81 for only like 115.00. I was gonna go stock but at that price how can ya go wrong I looked around a bit last night and found only good things but didn't come up with anything on here with a search.
 
Do you need the bigger valves? I forget the details of your build, but I think the bigger valves will hurt flow on most mild builds. But if you plan to port the heads and go more moderate to hot, you'll probably be ok.
 
ya The machine shop just called me and said I have good news and bad news the block cleaned up good and nothing cracked but the cylinders will need to be bored 30 over. I was like damn you had me worried I thought it was gonna be a bigger problem. At least now I know what size pistons I need to order just have to decide which ones to order I was gonna go with Kb's but the engine guy says he has never cared for them. I also did get a little clarification on heads my stock valve are still good and the price with stock valves was 360.00 which includes new seats and guides and all cleaning and assembly and will only be more if problems arise during the process. I told him I would let him know today what I wanted to do with the heads
 
That's pretty good on price for the heads. People who don't like the KB line of pistons scare me. They are a great product. You simply have to use their top ring gap recommendation. No ands, ifs or buts. It's really that simple. Just decide what YOU want to do. Call United Engine directly and talk with them about their KB pistons. My contact there is Marco. He is a really good guy and will go out of his way.
 
Yup, Aerohead (child company) of Indy makes refurbished heads for about the same price with the good stuff for about 499 a pop, add 100 for 452, 906, or 915s. It is the best bang for the buck unless you go up to a set of stealth 440 source heads, which i run and love, but they are $999.

Mike

here is the link

http://www.aeroheadracing.com/

I sent my original 383 HEADS in to INDY for the Bee (906s)
They do great work. BUT: This was year 2001.
 
well its official i decided to keep the original valves I just got off the phone with him so he can go forward on those. now I'm piston shopping he says he would go with the speedpro six pack pistons L2355F they were one of the ones I was originally looking at decisions decisions lol.
 
I rebuilt a set of 452's for my motor, 2.14 1.81 Ferra valves, home ported, bronze guides, comp springs retainer etc. In the end they flowed really well and came out great but not without a healthy price. I guess what I'm saying is that it doesn't take a lot to wrap up a lot of money in a set of heads. If you can get them done for 360.00 that's great, more power to ya. Good Luck
 
I will stress again that it doesn't take much to make a 440 powered something to put a smile on your face. Sure, you can also squeeze out the last drop - make a gazillion ft lbs of torque and HP, but keeping it simple and cheap with long life in mind will definitely work. My 66 Bel is a perfect example of a 12 second daily commuter. That engine will probably run for 50K miles without so much as pulling a valve cover and I can incinerate the rear tires and brakes to the point that only steel remains.
 
thats basically what im looking for right there meep meep im running a 318 now so im sure its gonna be quite the improvement lmao.
 
I will stress again that it doesn't take much to make a 440 powered something to put a smile on your face. Sure, you can also squeeze out the last drop - make a gazillion ft lbs of torque and HP, but keeping it simple and cheap with long life in mind will definitely work. My 66 Bel is a perfect example of a 12 second daily commuter. That engine will probably run for 50K miles without so much as pulling a valve cover and I can incinerate the rear tires and brakes to the point that only steel remains.
Sweet, That's the way to build em.:headbang::headbang:
 
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