• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

470” B engine build combos.

Bongo Bob

Active Member
Local time
8:22 AM
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
28
Reaction score
20
Location
Pemberton, BC
30262EFD-3DA9-4A40-B6E4-1790171DB197.jpeg
I recently scored a 72 400” engine and plan on building a 470” stroker to go in my 67 GTX w/auto trans and 3.55 gears.

Looking for a super solid, fast and fun pump gas street engine.

For those of you that have done this, what parts did you use?

Who has the best kit for crank, rods, pistons?

Which heads, intake and carb?

Which torque converter?

What worked and what didn’t?

What would you do differently?

Thank you!!
 
Last edited:
Got one in a 73 duster. 440 Source rotating , TF 240s Weiand dual plane. 727 man VB Hughes shelf 2800 conv. 8 1/4 with 321s. Good running street/Strip. Needs more cam but dyno @ 550 square with torque real low. Buildind a 8 3/4 W 391s now. Will play with induction ect if they ever open a strip around here again. Might do a swap to my 68 R/R.
 
Last edited:
Nothing wrong with the 440 Source kits. Good bang for the buck. I have both Stealth and Trick Flow heads, and honestly can't tell the difference between the 2 in a street car. Edelbrock Performer RPM for an intake. Try to get around 9.7:1 compression so you don't have detonation issues on pump gas. I like Quick Fuel 850 carbs. All my cars are 4-speeds, so can't comment on a torque converter.
 
Last edited:
Molnar crank and rods TF 270 heads Dwayne Porter speced roller cam Indy intake mad 6al box with there distributor, Biggs rebuilt my 1000 holley carb I'm going to say headers are 1 3/4 hence my comment on bigger 1's.... Heads have been milled to 70cc giving me about 12.1 comp

Good luck with your build
 
1 thing to keep in mind if you are planning on using max wedge heads, low deck intake manifolds choices are slim. I'm using a Indy intake and with a 1in carb spacer and no filter I couldn't close the hood
 
Never heard a bad word about the Source stroker kits. Decide on your RPM, pick the heads, cam to match.
My low deck 452's were great, but hard on the stock Mopar steel crank back in the day. But I spun them 7000 or more. They were not designed for that. The new aftermarket parts should be a ton better.
 
I have both a 451 and a 500 stroke 400 block. Can't say I am impressed with the 500 and would not buy another one. If I do another, it will be a 470.
 
Pretty sure a 470 combo would work out really well. A 500 does well to with an RB in my experience. Wish I had built a low deck with my 512.
 
Last edited:
Explain why
Probably just me, idk. My 451 dyno's at -42 hp and -58 ft lbs compared to my 493. I feel as though the 451 is just as quick, if not quicker at lower rpm's. Plus I don't know that I am sold on the bottom ring being down in the pin area. Like I said earlier, if I do another, it will be a 470, no doubt about it.
 
Last edited:
I prefer the 400/512 kits, why not get the extra cubes for the same money. I’ve built 3 of these exact same short blocks now. One in my rr, one in my dads dart, and another for a buddies challenger. Here’s my build, nothing real trick but it flat runs! Had it out this morning for about a 40 mile cruise. Plus made 3 full passes on it. Suppose to snow so I was getting it out of my system… and it’s probably a bit faster now than those original time slips :lol:


https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/roadrunner-8-4.101032/


https://youtube.com/shorts/T5XMY_6guIs?feature=share
 
Last edited:
My first 400/452 was a short rod combo, home ported 906 heads. Made lots of power, spun real quick. With the 5.13 gear it went 7200+ rpm.
Real fast. 10.50 in my 3350 Coronet. Wouldn't do that again with a stock steel crank. A good aftermarket crank is the key. Low deck rods sure worked for me.

EDIT: Actually, it was more like 7400 RPM with the 5.13's & 30.25" tire, switched to 4,88's and dropped to 7000.
 
Last edited:
The 400/500" is nice if you want to rev it 7,000+ RPM. Running M/W victors, and big 0.726" lift cam.
Had a 400/451 with modified 440 crank and rods. nice combo for the day, basically a 0.055" over 440 with pistons that are 1/2 the weight.
A buddy runs a 400/470" with performer heads, hughes engines solid ft cam. runs strong. my 2 above are solid roller cams.
The 400/512" looks like a nice combination for a torque monster combination. I haven't built one yet, so no personal experiance with that combination.
Have also done a few 440/505" and 512".
Three 440 source kits. Seem decent for the cost.
http://store.440source.com/Stroker-Kits/products/3/

Picked up crank, rods, pistons (not a full or balanced kit), and not much difference in cost, but will have balanced locally. Noticed that place (RPM International) has had a jump in prices too. https://rpminternationalinc.com/42-sae4340-chrysler
 
My preference would be any aluminum head (440-source,sidewinder,edelbrock,trick flow etc.) that I could get my hands on. Have the springs and valve job checked if nothing else.
Intake would likely be an RPM with a 750-850 carb of your favorite brand.
Just make sure the cam/compression/intake/carb all work together.
1 7/8 headers would be my choice with a minimum 2.5 mandrel exhaust.
For a street car a quality 11 " converter in the 2800 rpm stall range will be fine. If you want more brutal launches a good 9.5 or 10 inch vert with 3500 stall will eat tires.

My last 465 (440 block with a 3.91 crank) had 10.5-1 compression with stock edelbrock heads, Hughes Engines 246/250 @ .050 hyd cam, Holley street dominator intake ,and a Holley 750HP carb.Ran well but if I could build it today I would have a solid lifter cam and port the heads.
 
A quality custom converter is a must IMO. There's a few good shops that will take all your specs and intended use into account and get you set up. I've used and been happy with PTC, many folks on here like Ultimate and Dynamic also. But that comes after you've decided on your engine components.
As far as the engine--best thing you can do is get the best heads you can afford. Thataway you can be a little more conservative on the camshaft and compression (if you want) yet still make gobs of power and torque for the street....which brings me to my other point----
Since your goal is "fast and fun" plan on running a good drag radial like an M/T or the like. Pay attention to how you set up the rear end and suspension, this can be the difference between a tire spinning burnout machine(okay that's fun) that fishtails at 70mph on the shift(not so fun)...or a rocket ride that pins you to the seat under WOT. You can make some good gains suspension-wise without going full tilt on stuff like Viking shocks and Cal-Tracs and such, it just takes a little thought but it's worth it...
Stout 470 in a '67 X...sounds like a great build!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top