4spd help

[Revhendo]

OK, I need your help.
I am finishing the parts scrounging stage of my 4spd conversion for my 73 Roadrunner. I am down to the bellhousing and the shifter.
I understand that I screwed myself into a corner with the bellhousing by getting a complete 11 inch clutch/flywheel setup. But, I think I am gettng closer to that one.

The question I have is mainly the shifter. I am looking at doing a Hurst Comp style shifter, I don't really want a pistol grip shifter or their economical pricing associated with them. Don't get me wrong, I like the pistolies, but when the guy down the street has one on his Ram Truck, it's time to change.
So, Old Skool, white shift ball on a chrome stick is my choice.
I was hoping to keep my console, but what's the deal with the shifter adapters and linkages. Hurst only lists up to 72 without console. Will this work with a little creativity? I can't seem to find any definitive info.

Help

Rev.
Stuck behind the Orange Curtain in SoCal.

 

[rumblefish360]

I used aone of those Hursts in my '73 Cuda. It didn't need an adapter plate. It fit with the console, no problems.

A Lakewood scatter sheild will work if a stock bell is overpriced/impossible to find.

 

[69 Runner]

Don't know why something for a 71-2 wouldn't work on a 73. But as far as what to use for a handle? No clue. Something for a 68-70 wouldn't work at all. You might have to get a bit creative and fabricate something. Like maybe take an A body bench seat shifter and reshape/rechrome it. Or maybe use the 3 speed handle.

maybe

 

[rumblefish360]

The "KIT" replacement part package I got years back came with several adapter parts and a stick with a white round ball. May be, they still sell'em like that?

 

[wagonmaster]

I'm not sure about '71-up, but the 68-9-70 B Body shifter for the console cars had a sharp dogleg bend in it to clear the console and line up with the hole for the shifter.....You HAD to have the console shifter or stick (if removable) for those cars. probably no help but maybe it will.....

 

[69 Runner]

I didn't mention that one since the shifter location is 10-12" farther forward on a 68-70 than on a 71-71

 

[Revhendo]

OK, here's the trick. Hurst doesn't make a shifter for a E-body/71-74B body trans (their code 423). They list one for a earlier B body or an A body. I can get an aluminum adapter in the aftermarket for the console cars. But which shifter do I get? OR, do I get the rebuilt Hurst unit from that guy on E-slay for something like five bills.
I really like to eat so other options would be appreciated.

Rev.

 

[69 Runner]

Well...then it sounds like you have a choice of a repop Pistol Grip, or a repop Pistol Grip

 

[Revhendo]

Oh thank god, for a moment there I thought I would be stuck with a Pistol Grip.

 

[charger70]

I was broke when I put my 68 Runner together from a pile of parts. It was either a worn out inland or a brand new A body Hurst comp plus I had saved from a Duster I sold. The A body handle wouldn't clear the ash tray let alone room for fingers so I reluctantly cut a V out of the handle below the boot., leaned it back and mig welded it back together. That was 25 years ago, I'm still using it today and I'm not easy on it either.
I suggest you find a wrought iron shop or steel supply that can bend heavy iron. cut off a basic straight handle and and have them bend and weld in a piece of iron that puts the handle up thru the console. All the Ugly will be below the boot.
It'll probly end up looking alot like a 70 style console pistol grip handle.
I hope you find a solution.

 

[Revhendo]

I figure this one out and I am shouting it from the mountain top.

 

[charger70]

after all the Rejoicing,
:monkeydance::jiggy::sSig_wootwoot::yaayy:hyes: :woohoo:
Let us know what worked.

 

[Revhendo]

OK, so, parts to mostly finish this ordeal have been procured off of E-slay. I am going to order a trans hump from one of my metal suppliers and I have several handles hanging in the shop to experiment with. It's going to take a few weeks, time is a fleeting thing. I will try and post pics if anyone is interested. (Just don't make fun of my rusty headers, they were free and they get me rolling.)

Rev.

 

[charger70]

Good luck with the progress.
Bring on the pics!

 

[Meep-Meep]

A friend of mine 25 yrs ago had a 69 Charger with a 4 spd conversion and a shifter relocation kit by Hurst. The kit moved the shift linkage up and back and the shift handle was straight up and short kind of like an E body. I would think you can use that shift linkage without the offset bracket and bolt it to the rear pad on the tail shaft. I don't recall ever seeing one of these kits other than his, but I know they made them. Maybe also try handles for different applications like Ford or Chevy. The comp plus boxes should be all the same.

 

[Revhendo]

Your Charger friend may have picked up a super street shifter, they tend to have the straight sticks.
I picked up a shifter off of E-slay that had the grand ol' shift handle that we are all so proud of. I bought a Hurst install kit from Jeg's for the B-body up to 1972 w/o console. So, I now have control of my transmission even though I am forfeiting the console for the moment. (Kinda digging the big stick, maybe it won't be such a bad thing.) Apparently, I would have to mount the shifter assembly on the "E" body mounting boss's to get the shifter thru the console in the proper spot. Hurst doesn't offer a install kit for this setup anymore. (Or ever from what I can tell.)
I will say that calling Hurst directly was of no help what so ever. It would seem that they burned all their records before Mr. Gasket bought them out. Must've been a hostile takeover.
And yes, it appears that the Super Comp shifter is for all intent and purposes the same for all Mopars. The only differences would be shift handle and install kit.
Now I suppose it is possible to get the shifter assembly. And then purchase the repop rods from the aftermarket. Then get the aluminum shift mounting plate and screws, (again from the aftermarket). Then you would have to buy the shift levers, bushings and clips. The problem would be the rods will fit the repop levers but not the shifter. Hurst shifters use larger rods and bushings.

OR....

I could mount my E-slay special in the "E" body location and make my rods to meet the distance requirements. The booger would be the reverse rod, in stock "E" body form, it goes back and then under the crossmember foreward to the trans. (At least what I can tell from the factory manual.) (Anybody got a picture of one installed in a B body console car?)

Time will tell, I am finished putting the motor back together and have all the fun stuff collected to get it to work. I installed the pedals in the car over the weekend and might get the motor and trans aquainted this weekend.

I am going fishing in the Sierras next week, so the project gets a slight delay.
Hey got to have my priorities.....

Rev.

 

[Meep-Meep]

The shifter was in the car when he bought it back in 81 so I'm guessing it was a 70's piece, and I think the rods went over the rear cross member. It's been my experience that the aftermarket comp plus Hurst boxes are all the same for all cars, just rods and handle change for car to car. Lengthening the rods will work dandy, just splice them with a section of heavy wall tubing to avoid flex. It's been 20 yrs. since I dabbled with this stuff so I'm a bit rusty. I'll shut up; sounds like you have it under control!!

 

[Revhendo]

Oh hell no, don't shut up. It's people willing to talk about stuff that helps the rest of us. I would rather read twenty responses saying the same thing than see tumbleweeds roll across the screen. You never know when someone will say something small or large that you hadn't thought of or heard before. Although, I do get distracted by bright shiny objects.......

Rev.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I like your attitude!!

 

[CUDACOLLINS]

I know this may be a little late, but may want to keep this info tucked away for future use. If you get stuck,try calling Brewers in Ohio, and ask for Wayne. He's really a wealth of information on this type of stuff. Just explain to him what you want to do, and he'll be able to tell you all options. 1-937-698-4259