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526ci motor Builder hunting, trials & tribulation, results and video

ibsorgn

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Location
Somerset, KY.
A number of months ago I wrote to over a dozen engine builders around the country or, maybe I should say within a days drive of where I live, to submit bids for a 500ci+ stroker motor (didn't care if it was a B or RB). However my request was a little different from the normal requests that these builders get, at least that's want many said, as I specified a list of performance specifications rather than parts specifications and/or brands.
Basically what I was wanting was a street motor with lots of low end grunt, decent manners and low maintenance. More specifically I wanted a 500+ci, capable of producing 600tq at 3200rpm and holding it for a minimum of 1000rpm. Maximum hp had to be developed inside of 5500rpm with a minimum of 1hp per ci. Motor should be able to rev safely to 6000rpm. I consider these attributes to define what I term as a low RPM motor. The only boundaries I set were a minimum of 10" of vacuum, hydraulic lifters, maximum converter needed at 3000, B body oil pan, straight spark plug angle, maximum 93 octane, aluminum heads and if possible a dual plane manifold. Motor had to be complete including carburetor , distributor and waterpump. Dyno and tuning must use my components in effect saving me the cost of having to tune the motor and knowing exactly what the HP and TQ the motor would generate as well as making it a plug and play install. Then the big caveat, which caused 70% of the builders to bale, build the motor $8,500, which includes the block!
I'm sure many of you are laughing due to my relatively low performance requirements but, believe it or not, there in lies the rub. Simply put most builders are accustom to building for maximum output and damn the engine behavior and maintenance. I believe, they simply don't know how to throttle things down to meet specific criteria such as torque, manifold pressure etc while working within a small budget. Many told me they could pull a 100+ more horsepower than what I was asking for but of course at the expense of higher rpm which also equates to more quality parts which spells more cost. To me a street motor lives between 2500 and 4000rpm and that's where I wanted the power not at 6000+!
In my search for a builder most of the time I found that the builders were wanting to overbuild, and/or using premium components which are at odds with my budget. Most of the builders were quoting over 11K but I did have 3 that were in my budget or within $500 of it. One thing I found quite interesting were a couple of builders either did not run their motors or would not allow you to be present for the pulls. I thought to myself, how many people would not want to verify that the motor runs and produces the performance listed on their dyno sheet? I for one am not that trusting. I should also state that most builders were more than welcoming for my presents.

To shorten this story up I chose CME (Carolina Machine Engines) for several reasons. 1) they were the only builder to offer a warrantee, not promises but a written warrantee. 2) they only requested 25% down while others wanted 70% or more. Why is this important? Simply I don't like to put myself that far behind the eight ball. Should the builder not meet my specifications -what now? You have far more leverage with 25% down than 75%! 3) CME was able to show me dyno results of motors that would meet and exceed my requirements. Other builders wanted me to trust them that they would be able to deliver the performance and other criteria. Listen, I'm not saying they couldn't do what they said but I felt far more comfortable with a builder that had proven recipes in hand verses ones taking their best guess.

I visited CME this past Thursday were Richie, the sales manager gave me a tour of their facilities then introduce me to Bill, the man who assembled my 526ci RB engine and his brother John, who operates the dyno and does the tuning. After spending 1 1/2 hours at CME there is no question in my mind that I chose the right builder. I have no doubt that there are other good builders out there but CME met and exceeded all my performance specifications and miscellaneous criteria for just a tick over 8.3K.

I did however make a poor decision, at least in my mind, concerning some CNC work on the aftermarket heads. CME offers a variety of horsepower on their 522ci motors. Each HP increment reflects either a higher level of performance parts or greater degree of modifications to a part(s). Because I thought that it would be a good selling point to list that my motor had the heads CNC gasket matched and bowls blended, which is one thing that differentiates the 550 hp motor from the 525hp motor I decided to have that milling work done on my 526 (I requested that they build me a 526 verses their normal 522ci). But something unexpected happened and that is the torque fell by about 30fp. Normally their 525 and 550 hp motors put out 650+ foot pounds of torque, however my horse power did increase by 24 for a total of 549hp. Now some guys like to measure engines by hp but because I was wanting a street engine I tend to favor torque output. On the plus side I got the hp of their 550 horse motor but still maintained the vacuum and converter stall that made me choose their 525hp version. Not only did they deliver the 600tq I specified they hit 600tq at 3000rpm and carried it to 4500rpm, a 1500 rpm spread!

One thing I should point out is that CME assigns just one person to assemble the engine from beginning to end and Bill told me that he has built dozens and dozens of these 522s over the years and knows them very well.




http://vid1319.photobucket.com/albums/t666/ibsorgn/CME/Dynooutcell_zps71030efd.mp4

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Good info rite here !
I was just at Carlisle and saw that Indy has a 550 RB stroker short block with all Eagle rotating assembly fully balenced for $3600. and change. I thought that was a good deal in it self !?!?
 
Good info rite here !
I was just at Carlisle and saw that Indy has a 550 RB stroker short block with all Eagle rotating assembly fully balenced for $3600. and change. I thought that was a good deal in it self !?!?

Now that you mentioned balancing I ask CME if they purchase pre balanced stroker assemblies? They said that they prefer to balance the rotating assemblies themselves. Whether balancing the assemblies does not take that much more time than to verify a prebalanced unit or it is a revenue thing I don't know. But they apparently like to quality control each step rather than rely on others outside their shop to do certain operations. Same is true with the aftermarket heads, they buy them bare and assemble them themselves. I believe that port work is a step that is farmed out however.
 
Nice build, what car is the motor going in?

Thanks for the info.
 
Eng looks great ! I am using the same valve covers on my 493. Sounds like you got a nice eng there. Good luck with it. Ron

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What kind of headers are you running? Mini-starter? I need to get headers, starter, and a few stand offs for the spark plug wires (advice from anyone?) for my engine.

THese are the Jeg's 1/7/8 ceramic coated which are the hooker 5903 design (Jeg's claims that Hooker does not build them. Summit carries the exact same header for their brand). Mini starter from 440 source which I believe is a Delco. If you are producing over 450hp you should be running 1 7/8" or larger, this according to Doug Thorley specs.

I mocked the headers so that I can build a good clean set of wires,
 
I have the CME 522/525 ended up making 530 peak hp and 660 peak torque.

I have had some small issues along the way but nothing major and I have nothing but good things to say about Ritchie and my dealings with CME. Great group of guys and the proof is in the pudding they build a LOT of engines

Wait till you get to this point

https://youtu.be/mDaz1te-rVY
 
A friend of mine called me the other day stating that he had read this post and wanted to know where the video was at. I appologized and added that today. I've had the engine in since 10/2014. Not had any problems with the engine but I've had to work extra hard with support hardware to keep the motor running cool especially during very hot summer days and stop and go traffic.

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Nice!

Mine was done at the end of 2013 so not long before yours at all.

Last year when we did the first oil change we found three chipped teeth in the pan from the timing gear. No rhyme or reason other than maybe a faulty part to begin with but Ritchie immediately boxed up a new timing gear set and sent it out to me. (I'm in Canada so any use of the warranty is really pointless)

As far as cooling goes I have a Roadrunner so I was limited with the 22" rad. I called Wizard Cooling and told them what I was working with and they put me onto one of their 2 Cores with the upgraded core to 1.25" tubes and the integrated 4 - 9" Spal fans. Works like a charm!

Not sure who your fans are made by but a lot of fan companies have false CFM Claims. Wizard makes an even better 26" than my 22" so if that is an option you would consider exploring I would say it's worth it.

I've been nothing but pleased with my 522 but because we get that sickness I WANT MORE!!! It gets Procharged and meth injected this year :)

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Good read. Got maybe 60k on the 440. Not all easy miles. When the time comes I hope to find a good local builder. Seems Mopar has some exclusive required skill that most Chevy guys don't. Will look for a Mopar only brand shop.
 
The thing I liked most about CME is that one person is assigned to build the entire engine, no passing from one to another. The fellow that build my motor, Bill stated that he has built over 100 of these motors which clearly indicates he knows Mopars. That is alot of experience. CME is so confident that they guarantee all but the most extreme motors where nearly all of the engine builders I talked with would not.

- - - Updated - - -

I moved to a 3 core aluminum radiator and 2 17" fans -One Pulling and one Pushing. Fans are mounted on each side of the radiator. Your right these fan manufactures tend to exaggerate their fans performance.

- - - Updated - - -

Forced induction and WMI. I went that way a few years ago on a Mitsubishi 3000GT. Used a Magnuson (Eaton) SC and got to 8psi but was afraid to go any higher as rest of drivetrain would not be able to handle the strain. Lots of things to change but would sure be alot of fun. I think that if I went the force induction route I would move to fuel injection rather than a carb and some electronics to handle the timing. Lot less headaches and engine behavior would be better. I'm talking about a driver and not a race car.,
 
Definitely will need sub frame connectors with 600 Horse at the flywheel. My 69 RR runs 12.33 @ 110 and that computes to a sea level 478 Horsepower with the Wallace calculators.
 
That computes to 345 rear wheel horse power. 600 horse at the flywheel will put you at 10.58 ET and 127 MPH. Thats alot for a street car and very scary. Alot of people claim 500 horse power, but their ET s at the track don't reflect that kind of output.
 
That computes to 345 rear wheel horse power. 600 horse at the flywheel will put you at 10.58 ET and 127 MPH. Thats alot for a street car and very scary. Alot of people claim 500 horse power, but their ET s at the track don't reflect that kind of output.
Doesn't sound scary to me!! :lol:
 
That was a good read.Always happy to see someone attain their goal.We all have different goals and opinions on what is a street car and what is scary.
To me,if it runs on pump gas and you can drive to all the local cruse in spots than it's a streeter.Truth is,,,,,,if it's 500hp or 800hp it can't really hook on an untreated surface,that's when ego takes over.
Also, I prefer to be present on dyno day.Makes it harder to fudge the numbers.
 
i go about the dyno a different way. Go to the track. See how fast it goes. Look it up on the chart.
It's cheap and easy, just enter your numbers
Calculate HP from ET and Weight
ET Weight

Your HP is 899.90 computed from your vehicle weight of 3350 pounds and ET of 9.02seconds.
Is it accurate? who knows? but it was easy.
Doug
 
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