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'65 Belvedere/Satellite weight reduction?

Dusterkrazy

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Any good ideas on how to reduce weight on a '65 Plymouth? I am wanting to swap for a '65 Satellite. It was a drag project that someone started years ago and never finished. It has plexi windows, gutted interior, and I believe everything else is steel.

I think that there are fiberglass hoods available but don't know of much else. I was thinking that the trunk lids were very heavy as well. Any ideas greatly appreciated. The car will not see street duty.

The car is actually a Satellite but the buckets and console are gone. I was thinking that this was actually the main difference between the Belvedere and Satellite?
 
No back seat, rear interior, carpet, headliner, heater, a/c, wipers, front/rear bumpers. Then switch to a fuel cell and fiberglass hood/fenders. Leave the trunk, the weight back there will help.
 
Also take all the window regulators out and replace the glass with lexan! that'll drop about 140#s! You can leave the drs. regulator if you want the window to work. I've got my 65 Belvd. drown to 2980#s
 
Also take all the window regulators out and replace the glass with lexan! that'll drop about 140#s! You can leave the drs. regulator if you want the window to work. I've got my 65 Belvd. drown to 2980#s

Mine still has the stock windshield,(31lbs). I replaced all the rest with 1/8" lexan. Battery straps move the windows, no regulators. Even the vents are 1/4" lexan. I weighed all the old and new components. 84 lbs saved. Stock rear deck lid weighs 58 lbs.
Doug
 

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Thanks, 3120 w/o me. With me and fuel of fuel 3340. I could get it lighter. It has 2 battery's,fire system, dual production fans, all steel including bumpers except hood, old school wheels. Ran [email protected] last weekend.
Doug
 
If it's going to be a race car, aluminum parts every where you can replace or have cast iron parts, tubular suspension, drive shaft, wheels & tires, glass, hood, fenders, doors, trunk lid, bumpers, brakes, rear center section on a 8.75", shocks, steering box & column, seats, carpeting & headliner, door panels, floor pan, tunnel, shifter, e-brake, wheel tubs, fuel cell, battery moved to rear pass. side trunk {there are light weight racing batteries too}, remove all unnecessary wiring, lights & undercoating...
 
What do you mean by e brake budnicks? What if the brakes fail? Haha.

On my '65 I have no carpet, headliner, rear door panels, rear regulators, front/rear bumpers, heater/ac, wipers. One headlight/taillight, 10 gallon fuel cell, one bucket seat, manual steering, no horn or turn signals, just wiring for the gauges and to run the car. Mini starter, slant six with headers (no exhaust) aluminum intake manifold, 904, and 8 3/4 with plans for a spool (save some weight and whp). Hoping to get into 2900, might even be lighter. Car was 3600 with a 170 driver, full tank of gas and groceries in the trunk when it was stock.
 
What do you mean by e brake budnicks? What if the brakes fail? Haha.

.

Like I said if it's a real race car, you do everything to remove un-needed/un-necessary dead weight... I would venture to say a big % of the race cars out there, don't have an Emergency Brake... if your brakes fail, that's a chance you take I guess, most my cars had Parachutes, you can always slow down by downshifting too or run off the track into the kitty litter/gravel speed trap or ultimately the catch net... I never had any real brake failures either, racing for 30+ years, if you have a modern style/type Dual master-cylinder, with 2 reservoirs {one for front & one for the rears} & not an old pre-1967's with a single reservoir style MC, you will still have brakes on the side that didn't fail, hopefully both side don't fail, you would have to lose both front & rear main brake lines {I think that would be really extremely rare} or you will end up in the kitty litter/speed trap... hopefully you don't still have a single reservoir type MC...
 
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