Guys, I'm new to this website, but been rodding Mopars for over 30 years now. I typically only mess with Hemis, but have ran some RB combinations with the later model K-member in place. On the K-member, I've always switched to the later K-member for several reasons:
It moves the engine back a couple inches; it allows you to run the later model idler arm which is a 'captive' version instead of the old 'bottom bolt' arrangement, which are just plain sloppy and wear prematurely from the lack of support; it allowed me to use late model TTI headers; and it gives me a little extra room up front for additional cooling(thicker radiator) and a mechanical fan if desired.
I found the interference with the cross-ram to be so smalll that a small dimple was all that was needed to provide 1/4" clearance. On the later model headers (2-1/8") the center link gave about 3/8" clearance, and the 7 QT wedge pan sat within 1/4" off the center link. Since the center link pivots 'away' from the pan, it's not an issue.
On the headers, I talked to Sam at TTI, who explained that many customers 'claim' that the late model headers won't work in the 62-65's, but I can tell you that, if you use the later model K-member, they worked for me - acknowledging they were close - but no pipe required modification (denting) and none of them made contact with 'other' parts during operation.
On the valve covers, I typically ran the factory chrome covers with no trouble - especially when using the factory or Schumacher mounts. However, if you dont' mind a little fabrication, and are very patient, I have been able to 'adjust' engine position to accept the cast valve covers from Stage V.
If you install the engine (using a 7 qt pan) and trans together it'll 'wedge', but it can be 'pushed' into position (the pan will slightly drag on the K-member). Engine first, then trans, ensures a clean 'drop in' scenario.
On the trans X-member, run the later model, re-drill 2 holes, and trim the excess. That's all that's required.
On the Z-bar and clutch linkage, there's enough 'pivot' in the frame mount to get you about half way to perpendicular, and, if you use the right pivot on the bellhousing, you can dial in the rest. It's not rocket science...
The drive shaft was not an issue, since I always ran the later model drive shaft from any B-body.
I hope this helps guys, as this has been my experience. I'm gettting ready to install a Barton prepped 528 in my 64 Dodge Polara, and I have outlined exactly how it will be installed above. I'll upload some pics as the project progresses.
David, in Raleigh, NC
64 Dodge Polara
