66 Satellite Temp and Fuel Gauge Problems

[Rick]

Having a hard time determining why both the temp and fuel gauge wont register. I grounded what seem to be the hot terminal of each gauge on the back of the cluster panel and both pegged out. After removing the ground they dropped back to zero. Ground wire got slightly hot in the process. I checked the cluster panel circut board for continuity and each of the cluster lights work on that side of the panel.

:eusa_think:

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[ga66mopar]

Sounds like a bad voltage limiter.

 

[1966satellite]

I have the same problem with my 66 Satellite.

 

[dpstark2]

First- Did both gauges ever work? Did they stop at the same time? Do you have an oil pressure gauge and does it work?

Second- If you grounded the lines that go to the sending units and the gauge pegged, then your voltage limiter is likely working. If it had failed in the most common mode- passing 12V straight through- it would have pegged your fuel, oil, and temp gauges, then fried them. The limited should be in a canister on the back of your cluster- it should make an audible ticking sound if it is working. If you have a multimeter you should see an intermittent 12/0V at the same line you grounded. Assuming you have a stock limiter, of course.

Finally- if you have you that signal at the line you grounded, reconnect it and check for the same at the actual sending unit connection in the engine bay. Temperature sending unit should be easy to get to. If you don't have it there- check your bulkhead connectors. They do get corroded over time.

Overall it sounds like a connection problem to me.

 

[67 coronet]

i would do like dpstark said and check for continuity to the senders.check at the plug going into your dash and isolate from there if you find a problem.remember to check it with both ends disconected,otherwise could give false reading.

 

[Rick]

Thanks Guys
Bought the car about a month ago and fuel and temp never worked. Dash cluster light were out and had a drain on the battery that ran it dead everynight. The amp gauge had worked and the oil idiot light also worked when I got it.
After taking the cluster panel out i found a bunch of splices. I have replaced the wiring and pretty sure everything is wired corretly.
I replaced the old fuse block with an up to date fuse panel.

Cluster lights are working now and battery drain problem is corrected.

One problem is I cracked the cluster panel removing it and never realized how much they are worth. :angryfire:

I had already checked the voltage limiter and it is working. Good idea about continuty. Will check and let you know what i find out.

Love this car and enjoy working on it but electrical problems are such a pain.

Many thanks