67 charger headlight motors

[rags712]

new to the board ,thanks for having me,im going through the headlight motors,im pretty good with electrics,i have a caddy allante that ive fixed most parts that have puked out,my question is about testing the motor once apart,are thier ohm readings for the windings,also whats the points looking thing in there ,and is there a test for that,any help would be great ,thanks

 

[twecomm]

Think that what you are referring to is a circuit breaker of sorts that protects the motor winding(s) from excessive current draw should they be stalled mechanically. protecting the windings. You should see continuity across it. Motor case is ground and there is a motor winding for each direction. The 3 relays behind glove box control motor activation and direction. The two limit switches at rotating headlight buckets turn off motors when in fully open or closed position. 12 volts applied from case ground to either wire should make motor work. On resistance values, I checked a good motor, it shows 3.2 ohms on one winding and 2.8 ohms on the other. Different wire gauges is used on the windings, as there is a speed is difference for open and close, thus the resistance difference. There is a guy 'Thopher, the headlight motor man" that does motor repairs for Chargers. http://headlightmotorman.com/. Hope this helps.

 

[rags712]

thanks it clears up some things,ive talker to him and i think hes jammed up with work from what i hear,ive done alot of electrics on my cars and figured this cant be that hard,it wiers the brushes look ok ,the windings dont look burnt nothing is binding,i apply 12 volts and not a thing happens,i did find what looks like a metal pad for the circuit breaker ,it was bouncing around inside ,i thought my allante was a pain in the *** ,this things driving me nuts

 

[twecomm]

If you have it partially apart and you can measure resistance from the case ground to the windings, and they appear to be at the approximate value of the resistances mentioned in the previous post, windings are probably OK. If the motor base is together, with the planetary drive removed, you need to use the dish shaped nylon piece, which is the first item of the planetary drive outward from the phenolic plate with the brushes mount, placed over the shaft to properly support the armature shaft and center up the commutator between the two spring loaded brushes. Also have the end of the housing where the wires enter vertical oriented so gravity will keep the base of the armature in the lower bearing of the housing. Otherwise, the armature can't freely spin and can bind up. This below video link video someone posted does not have much useful info on the motors, but does demonstrate the binding up I describe if commutator is not kept properly centered between the spring loaded brushes. You mentioned a pad broken off inside, think it's part of the thermal circuit breaker ? That must have continuity for motor to work in either direction as it's in series with the ground connection, or motor case.
The motor(s) do require a stiff 12 volt source as either of the windings will draw a significant amount of current from your voltage source., about 4-5 amps. What are you using as a power source ? Battery charger ?