Stonehengeheel
Well-Known Member
Is there any way to adjust the pedal height so it is nearer to the floor. We installed a new Booster and Master. Thanks.
'67 Coronet Brake Pedal Height
- Thread starter Stonehengeheel
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Stonehengeheel
Well-Known Member
Do I need to cut down the shaft running between the booster and the master cylinder?
Was this originally a PB car or did you convert it to PB. The revised linkage attachment point for a PB car usually lowers the pedal significantly from manual brake height.
Stonehengeheel
Well-Known Member
Thanks. It was 4 wheel manual drum. Put in a generic unit I got from Jegs. I think the rod between the booster and Master Cyl may be too long? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Stonehengeheel
Well-Known Member
Yes, pretty sure it is. Thanks for the reply.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Sorry to revive an older thread, but I'm having the same issue on the 72 Charger -
I'm sure it isn't supposed to be this high, and I wonder if it's safe to drive this way.
The master cylinder is a new Centric unit, and there is no brake fluid in the system yet. I'm hoping the pedal will go down when the master cylinder is filled. If there's a problem though, it's better to find out before I put the steering column in.
I'm sure it isn't supposed to be this high, and I wonder if it's safe to drive this way.
The master cylinder is a new Centric unit, and there is no brake fluid in the system yet. I'm hoping the pedal will go down when the master cylinder is filled. If there's a problem though, it's better to find out before I put the steering column in.
Stonehengeheel
Well-Known Member
I have not found a way to adjust the height.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Well, I'll spitball for a moment . . .
This is probably the wrong way to do it, but it should be possible to adjust the brake pedal height by moving the sensor switch forward. The question is, will that engage the brakes to a significant degree, and can it be compensated for with the adjustor screw? And does it effect the sensor switch to have more pressure on it? The switch should have some pressure on it all the time, so maybe more isn't a problem.
The FSM has instructions for adjusting the brake sensor switch so it turns the brake lights on after a certain amount of brake travel, so that may also be a concern.
I'm wondering what's causing this problem though. I didn't switch from manual to power brakes, but I'm getting the same problem.
This is probably the wrong way to do it, but it should be possible to adjust the brake pedal height by moving the sensor switch forward. The question is, will that engage the brakes to a significant degree, and can it be compensated for with the adjustor screw? And does it effect the sensor switch to have more pressure on it? The switch should have some pressure on it all the time, so maybe more isn't a problem.
The FSM has instructions for adjusting the brake sensor switch so it turns the brake lights on after a certain amount of brake travel, so that may also be a concern.
I'm wondering what's causing this problem though. I didn't switch from manual to power brakes, but I'm getting the same problem.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
O.K., if your car has the same brake sensor switch setup mine does, the pedal can't come up any higher than it was with the original master cylinder. It doesn't matter what MC you put in, the brake sensor switch doubles as a stop and prevents the pedal from coming any higher. So, if our setups are the same, than somehow your brake sensor switch got knocked back to the end of its adjustment range. All you have to do is get under the dash, find the sensor switch, slide it forward and tighten it down again. I put mine in the middle of its range, which is where I remember it being, and the pedal is at a normal height again.
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