67 GTX Factory Air

[67GTX440]

I have pretty much decided to have the heater box and dash controls restored by Classic Air and go back with the original facory A/C components including having that huge clunky compressor rebuilt. Will need a new dryer and R-134 upgraded hoses. Can anyone advise on upgrading to a parallel flow condensor verses original? Make a big difference with all of the rest of the system original?

Also, the push button vacuum controls look exactly like the repops being sold by Classis Industries, but only show as being for 69-71 B bodies in their catalog. Does anyone know if there is any difference between just the switch and for 67 and 69. The one in the Classic Industires catalog looks to be 5 push buttons with the same electrical connections and vacuum connections on the back.

I may even pass on the front disk brakes and keep the car completely factory except for the paint color. I could not bring myself to go back to original dark green metallic from black,

Am I going to regret keeping trying to keep the A/C original verses all new Classic Air components as far as reliability? Doe the factory system work well converted to R-134. Black car in Florida, so good A/C is a must. Will probably replace the headliner and mat the roof since I have matted everything else.

Thanks!

Don

 

[ws27]

Lot's of people go with a modern compressor for efficiency and love them. Being from Mass, I'm not the expert in dealing with the heat you deal with. I know you have to remove a valve on the original compressors when you switch to 134a, classic air should know and might be doing it with out telling you. Very smart to change the hoses, you need barrier hoses otherwise 134a will slowly leak out right through the rubber hose itself. The push button control can be rebuilt I believe by Classic, they should be able to guid you. I believe the switch is different on the years for the control.

One thing I would ask you is if you could follow up when you are finished with your opinion of how it went, lot's of other people would be grateful to find out if there was a successful outcome. Or what you would have done differently had you done it again

Thanks and good luck.

 

[67GTX440]

Will do.

I am dragging all my parts over to Classic Air in Tampa this week or next - minus the compressor - to ask them what all I need. I need the car to run to get in for paint and need to reconfigure the pulleys if I remove the compressor. Car is just going to have to be down while compressor is being rebuilt. I would have gone with the Classic Air kit if they had one for an original A/C car that filled up all the holes in the firewall. First guy I talked to said they had one in development, and next guy I talked to said they did not. They have a complete Perfect Fit kit that matches the firewall for an original non-A/C car, but not one for an original A/C car. They just have the underhood components for that.

The non - A/C car kit requires cuts to the firewall and uses the original heater controls. I have a set of plain heater controls, but it seems like the firewall holes you need to cut for a non-A/C car do not match the holes already there in and A/C car. Putting the non A/C kit in a A/C car may end up with the firewall resembling swiss cheese.

 

[ws27]

There's no harm sticking with the original heater box, just redo what's under the hood.

 

[67 coronet]

why switch to 134a?r12 is still readly available.we do r12 ac sytems all the time here at the shop.134a is a bit less effective in sytems designed to use r12.the need to change hoses is a myth.once hoses have been exposed to r12,with the oil in the system,there is no need to replace them.unless,of course,they leak.

 

[67GTX440]

why switch to 134a?r12 is still readly available.we do r12 ac sytems all the time here at the shop.134a is a bit less effective in sytems designed to use r12.the need to change hoses is a myth.once hoses have been exposed to r12,with the oil in the system,there is no need to replace them.unless,of course,they leak.

I doubt this system has held a charge for 20 years, so the hoses have to be pretty well shot. Condenser looks shot and I am sure the compressor is shot. I know r12 is available but pricey. r12 is supposed to be a better coolant, but since I am replacing most components anyway due to possible contaminants, thought 134 was probably the long term way to go. Any recommendations as to whether the parallel flow condenser will improve the cooling capability over the original style condenser? Same with the Sanden compressor verses the original? What are other bottlenecks in the system that may restrict any benefits of a parallel flow condenser?