68 charger Air condition question

[68chargerpilot]

My whole project has to be moved 450 miles, so moving what is necessary motivated the question.

First can someone post a picture of the correct condenser? I found several in my dad's garage so I don't know which is correct.

Second do all the old components work with the new Freon after being checked for leaks and rebuilt of course.

Third is this the most cost effective route using old rebuilt or by new modern?

 

[super-bee_ski]

Hi
An answer to your question #3"
"Third is this the most cost effective route using old rebuilt or by new modern?"
-For my 70 Bee, I went with a retro fit kit from Bouchillion
I found it to be a better system, Sanden compressor, new condenser and parts.

See pics:

 

[aeon280]

Cant help on the first question.

For # 2 all old parts will work with r134. You will need a new dryer canister and if using and original compressor it will need to be flushed and have R134 oil added. Most rebuild units already come with the proper oil if you have to buy a rebuilt one. Another change is to the lines, unless you have new lines made with r134 ports you will need to add the srew on retrofit ports. Its been awhile since I removed mine so cant recall if there is an oring at the compressor where the hoses connect but if there is it needs to be replaced with the new green orings as well.

For #3 it really depends on what you are starting with and what your ultimate goal is. Nice comfortable driver muscle car or concourse resto. If you car was an AC car already and you have the heater/ac box then it shouldn't cost to much to fix the replaceable parts. if its a non ac car that you are attempting to add ac to or an ac car that it was all stripped out yrs before and lost to time it may be cheaper to by a prepackages aftermarket system and save yourself the headache of trying to piece 50yr old parts together into a working system. Alot of the replacement parts like driers, coompressors and condensors can still be bought at auto zone but if the evap box is missing or shot you will need to find one and have it rebuilt and that can get costly.

 

[68chargerpilot]

I have the original even box in it's entirety. I have all the components but they are old. Everything must be rebuilt, flushed, pressure tested etc etc.

 

[aeon280]

I have the original even box in it's entirety. I have all the components but they are old. Everything must be rebuilt, flushed, pressure tested etc etc.

If you have to get everything rebuilt you are probably looking at about the same as if you went with an aftermarket system but you wont really know for sure until you get what you have checked out. Look around where you are relocating to and see if you can find a shop that rebuilds radiators and coils This will save a bunch of money. Even in the bigger cities its hard to find anyone that rebuilds radiators and coils anymore so you may be forced to ship it off to a specialty shop. You can get a vacuum pump and check your actuators yourself. If the major components check out then use what you have if not the price can creep quickly. On a side note. Some specialty shops may try and sell you a new evaporator even if yours test out. They will say its because the old one wont cool as well with R134. I have converted several systems over the years and never noticed a huge difference in cooling loss due to R134 in older systems. If it leaks and cant be fixed get the newer unit but dont just replace it because of the new freon.

 

[AR67GTX]

My whole project has to be moved 450 miles, so moving what is necessary motivated the question.

First can someone post a picture of the correct condenser? I found several in my dad's garage so I don't know which is correct.

Second do all the old components work with the new Freon after being checked for leaks and rebuilt of course.

Third is this the most cost effective route using old rebuilt or by new modern?

I rebuilt the original system in my 67 about 10 years ago after the compressor blew a seal on r134. Seems I remember that the old compressors and systems have some pressure issues with r134 unless very carefully charged. Maybe something with the expansion valve or something - I don't know for sure - maybe fake news.

I had a local, older AC shop put a new seal in the compressor and he announced it was fit and ready to go so I went through the rest of the system and replaced all the O-rings throughout with green ones, replace the drier, blew out the hoses, etc. and detailed parts. I borrowed a vacuum generator and pulled a vacuum on it several times to satisfy myself it was tight and then had a mechanic buddy get some R12 and re-charge it. He also got about a half dozen cans of R12 for me to keep as spares, but 10 years later I've yet to have to top it off. None of this really cost much money in all.

If you think the original compressor is probably good a shop can probably verify that one way or the other and replace the seal easily. If you have no idea on the compressor's condition and aren't concerned about originality, an after market one may make sense.

Whether to go with r134 or R12 may depend more on if you have a mechanic buddy with an AC license who can get some R12 for you at a reasonable cost. Otherwise r134 makes more sense. From memory you will need to buy the appropriate refrigerant oil for the Freon type and purchase adaptors for r134 if the original compressor is used.

Don't know about the condenser - mine is definitely a replacement as some of the mounting holes don't line up correctly. I was also lucky in that my expansion valve and all that stuff seemed to be in working condition.

This looks like a handy site.

https://originalair.com/plymouth-air-conditioning-parts#/specFilters=6!#-!1368!-#!7m!#-!1471

 

[mopar73dge]

My 73 Charger factory a/c is working with the 134 A since I changed over in 2010. All original lines and condenser, I did change the dryer though. I removed the EPR valve from the compressor so the new Freon would flow, however it will flow and freeze up because the old freon used that valve for proper flow and preventing freeze ups. So need to install a relay with a capillary tube Vintage Auto Air has those for 35.00. I chose to keep a thermometer for HVAC in the vent and watch the temp. All you have to do is keep the AC on regular not MAX A/C after it runs a bout 10min depending on outside temps. And it will not freeze, watching the termometer is working for me since 2010 and I added just a half a can one time! I think the 134 A works better than ever and seals better and last longer, the pressure is less and you need less product. The old Freon would leak out every year, I did have a slight leak on a hose for years and now its just a slight oil seepage but the darn things all work! A 85.00 degree day and on the highway we enjoyed a cool 45 degree to 50 degree air out of the vents. You can see flow in the sight glass on the dryer also.

 

[Sixpactogo]

My whole project has to be moved 450 miles, so moving what is necessary motivated the question.

First can someone post a picture of the correct condenser? I found several in my dad's garage so I don't know which is correct.

Second do all the old components work with the new Freon after being checked for leaks and rebuilt of course.

Third is this the most cost effective route using old rebuilt or by new modern?

Is this a good enough pic of the condenser? It is the factory piece that was on my 68 Charger. I replaced it with a new aftermarket one that looks identical. I can take a better pic of the original if you need it though. This pic shows the plumbing hook-up locations.

 

[68chargerpilot]

Is this a good enough pic of the condenser? It is the factory piece that was on my 68 Charger. I replaced it with a new aftermarket one that looks identical. I can take a better pic of the original if you need it though. This pic shows the plumbing hook-up locations.

View attachment 534799

Any chance you could give me the measurements of it? The two I found are not the same size. That should eliminate one.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Any chance you could give me the measurements of it? The two I found are not the same size. That should eliminate one.

Here are a couple pics. The core measures 16 1/2" X 24 1/8 not including the end coils. This one is the factory one from my 68 Charger.

 

[68chargerpilot]

Thanks for the measurements and good pics!!! I found one just like it but it's kinda rough. At some point a bag of fertilizer spilled by it and some go into the aluminum fins. Turned a section to white powder. Think I can for get that one.

The other one isn't even close. At least I know what they looks like. Anyone have input on available replacements?

 

[Sixpactogo]

Thanks for the measurements and good pics!!! I found one just like it but it's kinda rough. At some point a bag of fertilizer spilled by it and some go into the aluminum fins. Turned a section to white powder. Think I can for get that one.

The other one isn't even close. At least I know what they looks like. Anyone have input on available replacements?

The one I have didn't leak. I just wanted a new one. If you can use it, I can send it to you for $50.00. I put it back in the box the new one came it so it is ready to go. If you want a new one, I bought mine from Obsolete Air for $320.00. They may have more of them

 

[68chargerpilot]

I would be interested in that. Tried to PM you but kept getting an error.

The one I have didn't leak. I just wanted a new one. If you can use it, I can send it to you for $50.00. I put it back in the box the new one came it so it is ready to go. If you want a new one, I bought mine from Obsolete Air for $320.00. They may have more of them