68 Charger: Anybody Ever Have Problem With Upper Rear Shock Bolt Removal?

[6T8 Charger]

After removing the nut from the upper shock bolt, I assumed it would slide out or maybe need a little persuasion with a pry bar. Nope, it's stuck in there and I've tried unscrewing it, used a crow bar to push on it and now my sawzall blade is bouncing off the bolt. Any suggestions? I can see why nobody ever replaced the rear shocks on this car.

 

[#41]

After removing the nut from the upper shock bolt, I assumed it would slide out or maybe need a little persuasion with a pry bar. Nope, it's stuck in there and I've tried unscrewing it, used a crow bar to push on it and now my sawzall blade is bouncing off the bolt. Any suggestions? I can see why nobody ever replaced the rear shocks on this car.

View attachment 1812514

Cuss. Lube. Hammer. Repeat.

 

[6T8 Charger]

I might have to pull the fuel tank!

 

[carnuts94]

Keep children away, as these types of jobs induce "four letter word" vocabulary!

It's funny that someone replaced the hump/trunk floorboard, but didn't replace the shocks. I assume the bolt shank is rusted to the inner sleeve of the shock hoop. Not an area that anyone wants to use a torch or throw a lot of sparks, and there's not a lot of room to swing a "persuader"! You can try the method of spraying the crap out of it with PB Blaster (or preferred equivalent) a few times per day, for a few days, and see if it will free up enough to remove. If that doesn't work, you can split and spread the side of the shock hoop open with an air chisel, remove the shock, then do the same for the inner hoop sleeve that is rusted to the bolt shank.
As a suggestion when you install the new shocks, I've always applied a very light film of anti-seize to the new (or newly wire wheeled) bolt shank-to-shock hoop mating surface.

 

[6T8 Charger]

Keep children away, as these types of jobs induce "four letter word" vocabulary!

It's funny that someone replaced the hump/trunk floorboard, but didn't replace the shocks. I assume the bolt shank is rusted to the inner sleeve of the shock hoop. Not an area that anyone wants to use a torch or throw a lot of sparks, and there's not a lot of room to swing a "persuader"! You can try the method of spraying the crap out of it with PB Blaster (or preferred equivalent) a few times per day, for a few days, and see if it will free up enough to remove. If that doesn't work, you can split and spread the side of the shock hoop open with an air chisel, remove the shock, then do the same for the inner hoop sleeve that is rusted to the bolt shank.
As a suggestion when you install the new shocks, I've always applied a very light film of anti-seize to the new (or newly wire wheeled) bolt shank-to-shock hoop mating surface.

Yep, looks like they left the shock bracket and shocks in place and welded the trunk floor from above. Probably used the shocks to hold it in place. Love the air chisel idea, I think I can get that in there. Thank you!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Well, if f the tank has never had gas in it, you could try the “acetylene wrench” on the rubber bushing (?). I think the bolt is rusted to the metal insert inside that bushing

 

[Fran Blacker]

Did you remove shock from lower shock plate?

 

[6T8 Charger]

Well, if f the tank has never had gas in it, you could try the “acetylene wrench” on the rubber bushing (?). I think the bolt is rusted to the metal insert inside that bushing

Unfortunately, it's full. I may have to remove the tank if I'm gonna use the acetylene option, which I haven't ruled out yet!

Did you remove shock from lower shock plate?

Yes.

 

[Runcharger]

Not hard to drop the tank to get a clear shot at it. Great procedure for aggression relief.

 

[WileE]

Douse it a few times with WD40 or PB Blaster, then give the bolt end a whack with a hammer.

 

[6T8 Charger]

Douse it a few times with WD40 or PB Blaster, then give the bolt end a whack with a hammer.

I wish I could get a hammer on it, that's what it needs, but here's not enough room. I'm gonna drop the tank, that may give me enough room to hit with a hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll have the tank out and I'm gonna use the nuclear option (torch it). I'm done.

 

[Rick@Laysons]

Get a fairly big C-clamp and a couple of sockets, and rig yourself up a little press.

It'll save you from having to drop the tank.....

.....and just maybe a few of those four letter words to boot!!!!!

 

[Derwud]

You need a set of these..

through bolt socket sets.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I was thinking an air hammer with a punch bit but maybe not enough room for that either.

 

[dodgeboy440]

I was thinking an air hammer with a punch bit but maybe not enough room for that either.

How about the Bo & Luke Duke Method????????

Got Any Ramps Or Rivers ,,,,,,,,,Maybe Canyons U Can JUMP!
The Landing Should Jar It Loose.....................
YaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaHoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo............................

 

[#41]

I wish I could get a hammer on it, that's what it needs, but here's not enough room. I'm gonna drop the tank, that may give me enough room to hit with a hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll have the tank out and I'm gonna use the nuclear option (torch it). I'm done.

Use a long metal rod like a piece of rebar or breaker bar against the bolt and whack away. It may not need to be a straight on hit to break it loose.

 

[DeltaV]

I use PB Blaster and Kroil Oil. I like them both, but like Kroil better. Give either one a couple of days to do its work. Reapply after a couple of days and then try removing the bolt after a couple more days.

 

[WileE]

Spray WD40 or PB blaster on it. Then, If the bolt is frozen on the shock, use a long breaker-bar with a socket on the bolt end and hold it. Twist the shock itself either way to loosen the bolt.

 

[dvw]

Very common problem in Michigan. Sleeves rusted to bolts. As a mechanic in Michigan i learned early on. Had to torch them off. Of course the rubber would catch on fire. It was an awful job. Especially Fords with the shock right next to the fuel tank. Had the cams seized in the upper bushings as well. It hasn't gotten any better now with the newer stuff.
Doug

 

[6T8 Charger]

Got it! I found a Diablo Steel Demon blade at the hardware store and was able to cut the bolt on each side. Not sure what grade of bolt the factory put in there, probably grade 5. That's what I'm gonna replace it with. Now, onto the other side! Thank you to all the members for your suggestions and insights. I love 4BBO!