68 Charger brake removal/reassembly.. missing something?

[verdelaw]

Hi I'm fairly new to old cars in general, so please forgive my naiveté. I wanted to check to see how these old drum brakes were doing and figured it wouldn't be too difficult. I've disassembled new (disc) brakes on late model vehicles so I figured this wouldn't be too hard.. wrong!

I pulled off the dust cap, removed the cotter pin, removed the star shaped cotter pin retainer, removed the nut, and pulled on the hub.. no joy. So I used a hub puller and got it off. Great! This is what I saw:



It seems to be missing the lever that engages the adjuster cog at the bottom? Like it shows in my service manual? Like it looks like in this picture I pulled off the web?..



Don't I need that lever?... I adjusted the cog at the bottom a few (12) notches anyway to see if I could get the drum back on.. and it went on, but popped out the bearings? And a big washer that looks a little bent (perhaps I did that with the drum puller?) and has a tooth in it that corresponds to a channel in the spindle? Now I'm confused. See bearings and tooth-washer at bottom:



Do I need to replace this washer? The bearings? Do I need the lever that I think I need that is supposed to hold the adjuster cog? Confused. Any help appreciated. Mockery is acceptable if useful guidance comes with it.

 

[batt2rm]

Yes you need all those parts, they sell that as a kit. I know Rock Auto has them. You don't need to replace the washer, I would replace the wheel bearing, but thats just me.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Post a picture of the adjuster and them some one can tell you if it original had the lever. Not all brakes were self adjusting.

 

[WP29440SE]

a factory service manual is worth its weight in gold

 

[verdelaw]

Post a picture of the adjuster and them some one can tell you if it original had the lever. Not all brakes were self adjusting.

The adjuster is right on the bottom of the first picture. Just under the horizontal spring. That is what I adjusted to get the drum to fit back on, and that is what I believe is missing a lever (like in the second picture). No?

I have what I think is a factory service manual.. one of these:
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/19...19dochcodase&gclid=CO-KtIDqpsgCFQqRaQodAYUDWQ

It's good but not great. This is the manual I was referring to in the original post.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes you need all those parts, they sell that as a kit. I know Rock Auto has them. You don't need to replace the washer, I would replace the wheel bearing, but thats just me.

Do I just stuff them back in and use/trust the nut to seat them in the right spot? Bearings, then washer, then nut, then pin retainer, then pin, then dust cap?

 

[cryplydog]

Hi Verde, John here, first off I always back off the adjuster to ease the removal of the drum first as not to have interference with brake shoes when coming off. I would imagine that your Charger came with auto adjusters but have been removed at some time. Now, some as well as me like it that way on HP/Race cars because you can adjust them loose so not to drag and shave off speed and have less rolling resistance . With the auto adjusters---, you have dragging effect because they try to tighten the adjustment every time you back up and hit the brakes and this creates heat and slows you down but you have a full peddle. some don't mind adjusting the brakes on occasion, like me but you won't have a full peddle which does no harm. now to the parts, it appears the inner seal is shot and the grease is nasty so I would pull the inner seal and let the bearing fall out then wash both bearings very good with solvent and blow dry as well as wipe the races good on the inside of drum, if all are not scarfed/pitted/or otherwise trashed then you can reuse them but this would be a good time to replace both sides, Bearings-races-seals and good quality grease. When putting the hub back on you need to back of adjustment so it slides on easy then put on the axle washer and nut, tighten it down till it stops then while spinning wheel by hand back out axle nut till wheel turns easily and then a little more to compensate for heat expansion, when you like then put on the nut locking ring and new cotter pin. after you do the opposite side then use your brake shoe adjusting tool to adjust. have someone in car to push brake peddle to center brake shoe assy in hub then spin wheel by hand while tightening until you hear the shoes start to touch the drum and then hit the brakes again to recenter and adjust as needed. should bleed the system first though with new fluid. when you first drive it will pull one way or the other, if mild it will wear in quickly, if harsh then loosen one or tighten the other. for what its worth I like to have some travel in my brake peddle with drum brakes, kind of gives a better feel to me and when you let up they are free. good luck

 

[Sixpactogo]

My 68 Charger did not have the auto adjuster feature either. It looked just like yours when I took it apart. In a conversation with Rick Ehrenberg, (Mopar Action Tech writer) I was told that pre 69 cars did not have the automatic adjusters. I upgraded my car to disc brakes in front and bought the auto adjuster kits for the rear wheels. You can get them on Ebay or auto parts stores. Just need to ask for 69 up. I have the 68 FSM that shows the adjusters but they must have been a mid year upgrade.