'68 convertible - need help on multiple electric issues - novice

[munger77]

Hi everyone, I could use any help you can muster up.
tomorrow I will start troubleshooting electrical gremlins in my 1968 satellite convertible with 440; originally had AC. Runs and drives great. Wiring harnesses are new up front and in rear; 'reconditioned original harness in dash bought off ebay', and not sure of the turn signal switch - - all wiring was installed by a shop that claimed they were experts, but they were charlatans/rip off artists. I'm new to the area and a bit gun shy about taking it to the next set of liars. I trust this forum more than anyone so here goes:

1. brake lights are on even with key out of ignition, and only driver's rear + front right signal light go on when the brake pedal is pressed. Switch itself seems to work fine.

2. Only gauge that works is alternator. No other gauges work at all.

3. Blinkers seem to work fine front and back, but only driver's side dash indicator lights up; turn signal cam/cancel does not work correctly. When changing lanes it is real hard/ a lot of resistance to re-center the turn signal lever, so I accidentally drive with a blinker on here and there.

4. all headlights and tail lights seem to work; hi beams go on and off fine.

5. Horn did not work since i've owned it. Last week I drove it a few miles, started it back up coming out of a store and the horns were on; couldn't figure out why. Sounding all the time. Started it 3 times and they came on and stayed on so I disconnected them at the point of the horns and drove home. Got up the next day and the (2 month old) batter was drained completely. Steering wheel is original, kind of old and has some cracks in it; I may replace with a wood rim wheel and press button horn.

I have a wiring diagram but Where do I start??? I've read sections on this forum for several months here and there, but is there a thread for how to troubleshoot this stuff, and what NOT to do?

 

[Lionized]

There are a number of issues here:

#1 = by "up front harnesses" do you mean, engine, forward light and wiper? By that, everything forward of the bulkhead connector?

#2 = A patched together dash harness is unacceptable. Period.

#3 = you have ground issues. Possibly multiple. Possibly traced back to your patched dash harness but, I would suspect they're in multiple locations considering the problems you've described.

My suggestions are :

#1 = replace dash harness. Bite the bullet and do it. Wait for a Year One sale.

#2 = check ALL of your chassis grounds. PITA, I know, but it must be done. Start at one end, work your way to the other.

 

[munger77]

Thank you Lionized, I will consider a new harness for the dash and begin the troubleshooting.
new dash harness is everything forward of the bulkhead connector.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Let's attack these one at a time.

1. brake lights are on even with key out of ignition, and only driver's rear + front right signal light go on when the brake pedal is pressed. Switch itself seems to work fine. ( Brake pedal switch t the pedal is probably stuck on replace or re adjust switch. turn signal switch inside steering wheel is bad or not making good contact check that and fix or replace.)
2. Only gauge that works is alternator. No other gauges work at all. ( instrument cluster circuit board on the back of the cluster maybe bad or have some burnt solder traces or the voltage limiter is bad, or the connector to the cluster ckt board is bad or broken or disconnected or not making good contact. Or you have bad sensors like fuel sending unit and temp sending unit. Does the speedometer work? it should its mechanical to the transmission.)
3. Blinkers seem to work fine front and back, but only driver's side dash indicator lights up; turn signal cam/cancel does not work correctly. When changing lanes it is real hard/ a lot of resistance to re-center the turn signal lever, so I accidentally drive with a blinker on here and there. ( turn signal cam in steering wheel is bad or not making contact like in #1)
4. Horn did not work since i've owned it. Last week I drove it a few miles, started it back up coming out of a store and the horns were on; couldn't figure out why. Sounding all the time. Started it 3 times and they came on and stayed on so I disconnected them at the point of the horns and drove home. Got up the next day and the (2 month old) batter was drained completely. Steering wheel is original, kind of old and has some cracks in it; I may replace with a wood rim wheel and press button horn.( sterring wheel too tight when it was re mounted needs adjustment, the horn makes contact with a roller pin inside the assembly and if you over tighten the wheel it forces it down. it may have been on the edge and your driving just made it go. horn relay still hooked up with no horns will drain the battery, even though you pulled the wire off the horn doesn't mean power isn't still going to the horn and the relay will kill the batt over time.)

Sounds like the majority of your problems are in the steering wheel and the instrument cluster. diagrams can be found here. If you need more detailed wiring let me know I can make you one. You can also go on ebay and find 11x17 laminated versions of this in color for around 12-20 bucks.

Also
remember your whole car is a ground, and every electrical component needs a good ground reference, could be the threads on a sending unit or the screws in your dash cluster or the clamps on a hose etc makes sure all grounds are good and not on painted surfaces. you can use the OE star washers to get things bolted to the body that dig into the paint just a bit to make a good ground.

http://mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerA.JPG


http://mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerB.JPG

 

[munger77]

Thanks bigmanjbmopar, I will spend some time looking at the diagrams and see what I can come up with, following your leads above.