68 Coronet Brake master / booster?

[Malicious]

Hi all,

So I've just received my 'new' 68 Coronet minus engine and master cylinder. I will put up a thread with some pic's of the car and an intro for me over the next week. In the mean time, I'm in the process of planing what parts I need for the build. So I'm at the point of working out what to do about the braking system. A quick note, this is the first time I've built a car with drums, so please be nice if I sound like a tool! :icon_thumleft:

It was originally a 318 with boosted drums. It currently has what I assume is the original booster, no master and a set of, I think, 4 pot willwood disc brakes up front with braided lines. I'm going to check out a rebuilt 440 over the next few days, cam is mild from what the owner is saying. I want to eventually move to a lumpier cam, nothing extreme but I want a bit of extra power and a lumpy note.

So what advice would you guys have for me?

Boosted or manual brakes? 1" Bore? I've only been able to find one master cylinder that claims to be for disc / drum combo. Surly there must be more out there? What else will I need for the system? Proportioning valve?

I also wouldn't mind something that looks nice, so if you know of a "pretty" set please let me know. 'Cos its not a 'special' build from factory, I'm planing to do an "RT clone" from the out side with a nice looking and worked engine / bay. Just so you know my plans for the car

Thanks in advance!

 

[Propwash]

Myself, I would go on the hunt for a 68-69 Bendix Power booster for Disc brake's. If the Original booster for the drums is still in place, you can use the linkage to the pedal on the backside of that and it will directly bolt onto a B-body Bendix Power booster. Yes you will need a proportioning valve for the Disc/drum combo. 1" bore will work fine and is OEM size for the MC. Rock Auto and other places sell the Reman/rebuilt master cylinders for the factory bendix power brake system. Not that pricey, but in your case, shipping may be a bit up there. You'll also need the Bendix booster plate:
http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=102%2DBB4

My 2 cents........Good luck.

 

[Malicious]

Thanks for the reply Propwash. Do you mean keep an eye out for a second hand bendix booster? I think finding a second hand one is going to be a bit hard for me, past what I can find on the forums. I've come to terms with spending nearly as much on postage as the parts! Nothing I can do about that unfortunately, on the up side, out dollar is strong against the US dollar. So the conversion is in my favour!

I've had a quick look in the brake section, I can't remember which thread it was, may even have been one of your posts, that had a link to a booster master set up:
http://www.performanceonline.com/19...R-PLYMOUTH-CAR-POWER-BRAKE-BOOSTER-KIT-19530/

Is this a decent option? I have to be honest, I wouldn't mind a nicer looking master. But is that's all I can get then that will have to do!

 

[Propwash]

No problem Malicious. Glad I can help.

Yes I would keep your eyes peeled for a Bendix. As far as that link for the performance online master/booster, as I told the other fella, that is not going to work without some serious work. That kit is for converting MANUAL brakes to a power disc conversion. Not power drum to power disc. A lot of companies sell this same kit, all they do is buy their own rights and slap their name on it. They all seem to forget to state the fact these are made for a manual to power disc. I found out the hard way with Right Stuff Detailing and that's when I had to do all my research to figure out the right course of action.

If you take a close look at the pic, the bracket on the back does not correlate with your factory set up. Also, look at the linkage arm coming out. The mopar boosters have a 3 1/4" arm coming out center of the back to be hooked to the linkage. That one has a 5-6" arm that shoots out off the linkage at the bottom of the assembly.

I've seen a few guys trying to make that set up work over at the Dodge Coronet Registry and at moparts. They end up having a booster that sticks way out into the engine compartment. They end up making modifications to the firewall and then drill holes in the brake pedal arm. In the end it's a flip of a coin if they ever get it to work correctly or not. I'm not just blowing smoke here...It's seriously in your best interest, if you want a hassle free working disc brake convertion from your power drums, to just go with the OEM Bendix set up.

Hope all this helps...

 

[jerry]

CPP has a good one / good price. Used 1 myself

 

[Malicious]

Sorry for the delay in getting back you you all, my son had surgery on monday so I was a bit preoccupied. Thanks again for the help.

So I while I was giving the car its first clean and polish in quite a while, I had a look at what I have in bay. Also my shop manual arrived a couple of days ago. Correct me if I'm wrong but I appear to have a Bendix booster already?

Pretty happy with that result! So I guess the question is now, whats the best master to get to suit? Magnum force have a aluminium willwood one with adaptor in 1 & 1.125", But the websit doesn't support shipping out side of USA?
http://www.magnumforce.com/store/detail.aspProductID=3904&CategoryID=17&BrandID=&Category=&SubCategory=&Search=&Page=


Or I can get a '70 disc master from ebay here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360438502574?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_564wt_1046

Or rock auto has 2:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1081864,parttype,1836


Sorry if I sound stupid, but I'm still a little confused about the interchangeability of the masters and sending back the wrong one is a costly exercise! Also would like to get one that looks nice straight off the bat to save possibly doing it again down the road.

Cheers!

 

[Malicious]

Nearly forgot. I'm guessing I need a propotioning valve? Where do I install it? On the rear brake lines? Before or after the brake failure alert switch block? Also do I need to install Residual valves on the rear brake lines?

Cheers!

 

[Propwash]

Nice!! That's the ticket!! Looks like someone slammed in a Bendix booster in your drum car. Should have had a Midland style. As far as your M/C......Like you listed, Rockauto.com sells the correct one.

http://my.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=101475

You could use the part# and possibly find it at another vendor that may be a bit more in your neck of the woods.

That M/C will have a residual valve already built in. As far as you proprtioning valve location, the factory location was the front left frame rail straight down from the booster/Master cylinder. I'm thinking that "brake failure alert switch block" you're speaking of is the original distribution block for the power drum set up. You have a pic? There is a difference between a distribution block and proportioning as far as operation. You can buy an OEM style prop valve from folks like Year One, Right Stuff, Classic industries, Roseville Moparts...The list goes on. Folks like Baer Brakes, Wilwood sell aftermarket ones if you want to go that route.

For the OEM stuff...You would be looking for something that looks like this

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product_info.php/brakes-/master-cylinder-push-rod-proportioning-valves/p/69-70-b-body-combination-valve-disc-1-of-2/cPath/219_220/products_id/6819

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product_info.php/brakes-/master-cylinder-push-rod-proportioning-valves/p/69-70-mopar-b-body-metering-valve-disc-3-port-2-of-2/cPath/219_220/products_id/6823

 

[ga66mopar]

If this car came with that brake booster it should have the correct proportioning valve. Since this booster was only used on disk brakes cars.

 

[Propwash]

I agree......It's strange though, he say's it came with drums. The Bendix came in Disc/drum cars not drum/drum. Maybe someone down the road tossed it in down the road?

 

[Malicious]

So I guess the part of the problem I'm having is that I have no history of the car and no fender tag so I'm kinda flying blind here. Being that it was a 440 model I assumed that it would of left the factory as a drum car. That and my shop book mentioned that in 68 the bendix only came in hemi cars?

All I really know for sure is that it's a 68 440 that came with auto on the tree 318. Other things I'm trying to sus out are, if it came with a sway bar or if the previous owner added it, same with the power steering, etc.

I got the name for the brake block from the shop manual, Donno if it does anything else! Here's a pic of it:

Picked up a basic rebuilt 440 for it today, getting excited! I've got so many questions that I'm trying my best to hold back and work my way through them without harassing the forum too much!

We have a long weekend here, so I'm going to give it a polish tomorrow try and revive the paint a bit. I'm going to try and get familiar with it while I'm at it.

 

[ga66mopar]

All 67-69 b-bodies that came with disk brakes had the bendix booster. The factory hemi cars had a bracket that moved the booster a little higher to give valve cover access. You have the non-hemi set up.

 

[Propwash]

Thanks for the pic! Helps. That is a power drum distribution block, not a proportioning valve set up that would have come with a Bendix system..

Few options...

Buy the appropriate Combination valve (proportioning valve) and metering valve.

Install an inline proportioning valve past that distribution block in the rear brake line.

Or buy and aftermarket combination proportioning valve with the switch and ditch the old distribution block all together (Wilwood makes them)..

Have a good extended weekend! As far as the questions, don't hesitate to ask. lotta guys on here with plenty of experience with these cars.

 

[ga66mopar]

Propwash how can you tell that is not a proportioning valve? It looks just like the proportioning valve I got off of a 73 dart disk brake car that I used on my 66.

Thanks for the pic! Helps. That is a power drum distribution block, not a proportioning valve set up that would have come with a Bendix system..

Few options...

Buy the appropriate Combination valve (proportioning valve) and metering valve.

Install an inline proportioning valve past that distribution block in the rear brake line.

Or buy and aftermarket combination proportioning valve with the switch and ditch the old distribution block all together (Wilwood makes them)..

Have a good extended weekend! As far as the questions, don't hesitate to ask. lotta guys on here with plenty of experience with these cars.

 

[Propwash]

No sweat ga66......

1st.....his is identical to the distribution valve from my '69 roadrunner that was power drum and my '68 Coronet that still retains the power drums. 2nd...Below is a pic of a OEM combination proportioning valve.. It's notched out a bit different in the middle...other than that, looks real similar

 

[Malicious]

Thanks propwash! I might try and grab one of the willwood ones to save a bit of unnecessary extra plumbing.

Do people do 'build threads' here or just drop on occasionally to post? I took some photos on the weekend while I was attempting to polish the car. Thought I might introduce myself and show the car...

 

[Propwash]

Thanks propwash! I might try and grab one of the willwood ones to save a bit of unnecessary extra plumbing.

Do people do 'build threads' here or just drop on occasionally to post? I took some photos on the weekend while I was attempting to polish the car. Thought I might introduce myself and show the car...

No problem Malicious. Glad I could help.

As far as the "build threads", I guess the best match for that would be over at FBBO's "Member's Projects and Restorations".

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forumdisplay.php?f=41

Lotta great projects/restorations going on over there that are in all different stages of resto and skill set..