68 coronet frame stiffning

[jess]

hello
i am wondering what do i need to do to my car to handle a fair amount of power on the strip maybe 400 hp but if i ever up grade to let's say? 800hp
with slicks what should i do to the car now is a good time since i am striping it down i wanna go a bit over kill for now just cause ya never know what i might do down the road
i do wanna keep it a leaf spring car for now
i am gonna do sub frame connectors but other than that i am clue less
and were can i get the connectors? i also dont mind cutting into the floors
it's just a coronet 440 so dont worry i wont cut up a r/t or a bee
pic's videos ect would be rilly nice and any suugestions and advice
thanxs

 

[Big Sugar]

Jess What are your plans for the Car ? a Drag car or more Street setup ?
What State is your car in now ? (not location)
CAN YOU WELD

Anyway you look at it the Coronet needs a good sound foundation, and doind a bit of welding and bracing is going to help you for the rest of you build, Get that Chassis buttoned up.

 

[jess]

it is gonna see more street than drag but it will see the strip a few times a yr
so i guess i want both lol
i wanna built it strong just incase in the furture i wanna step up the power
and do more drag racin it will be ready
i am a welder thats what i do for a livin and i also have a mig welder at home

 

[Big Sugar]

Well then ! that is where your gonna start.


Your Coronet looks like a post car ? is it ?

Ron

 

[jess]

no it's a hard top

 

[Budnicks]

Here are a few photos of parts you should consider, if you want a serious street/strip car....Are you leaning toward a stock restoration look ??, a period correct look ??, or race car type look ??, or pro-touring or resto-rod look ??, or what type & style are you looking for ??, form over function, like a no go show boat or trailer queen ??, or just a bad a$$ street/strip car ?? if it's a leaf spring car, I say go with CalTracs, you could also go with Super Stock Springs instead, with adjustable pinion snubber, bolted in or welded sub-frame connectors, Hell your a welder by trade, make your own, it's easy peasy, add a 4 point roll bar min., some tubular upper "adjustable" control arms, good adjustable shocks, on all 4 corners, a drive-line safety loop, some decent drag radials at a minimum, for at the track... Try Mancini Racing they will have almost everything you will need.... Good Luck& Happy Moparing

 

[jess]

going for an old school drag racing look
dont care about keeping anything stock
gonna keep it a leaf spring car for now
and want it to be a daily driver in the summer also
gonna relocte the fuel and batt in the trunk
want it to be as good on the strip as the street
not gonna be autocrossing it

 

[RamNBee]

Get Mopar Chassis book. Will get you lots of info for cheap. Engine book is very good also. Both have drag "recipes" for whatever level you want to build to; 12, 11, 10 sec ETs. Set your budget and have fun!!
Norman

 

[womanator]

Here's a pic under my 67 Street Dart.
I don't like the way SS Springs make the cars rearend sits high so I welded lowering perch's on the rearend.
Adjustable pinion snubber.
Frame connectors.
Narrowed rearend.
Springs brought into the frame rails.

Better pic of Wilwood disc brakes,which is always a good upgrade and the lowering blocks.

Pics taken before cleaning up over spray.

Important part of disc brake install is to get the safety wire installed correctly.

Here's a steering upgrade everyone should do if going over 100 mph.

Always good exhaust.

Stance of car with SS springs.

True daily driven pump gas 10 sec street car.
Time slip with full exhaust.

 

[jess]

thanxs nice car
the pics will help alot are the disk breaks a kit?

 

[jess]

what would be a better option?
buy frame connectors
or make a set out of 2x2 and cut the floor
i honestly dont mind if i cout the floor
and i may possibly put a cage in it in time
not shure if that matters or not?
i am of course looking for the cheapest option but more importanly the strongest
cause ya never know what i may put under the hood in time i just wanna be prepared if i upgrade the motor to a more drag race set up
i am already thinking of a mini tube cause the inner rears are a bit rusted out

 

[Dennis H]

US Cartool has inexpensive weld-in connectors. The work good on my 69 Coronet. Transformed the ride and feel.

 

[shag766]

frame connectors, cage, mini tub.

 

[moparbob498]

I used 2"x3" square channel & cut floor + added a 12 pt. Cage & back halved my 68 coronet..was using the moroso solid motor mounts but with new engine I installed aluminum elephant ears & a mid mount plate (from competition engineering) & the kevlar/ carbon fiber tranz shield (I like my legs the way they are) I also use the super stock springs with 6 adjustment holes at front perch ... works great & launches like a sling shot. Good luck with your build...I'll get some pics & post them later.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

not sure if this post is too late, but I installed tubular Global West frame connectors that weld on each end and don't require welding along the entire floor length. They are really nice and made a huge difference in the car's feel and stability. You should also add welded torque boxes at all 4 corners when you weld in the sub-frame connectors.

 

[SilverTBM]

68 coronet. spring inboard kit. 3.5" mini tub

 

[Hemirunner]

That's exactly what I'm dong on a 70RR right now. Do you have anymore pics you could post?

 

[SilverTBM]

This is all I have right now.

 

[383man]

Alot depends on what you can afford to spend and how fast you want to go. Myself I have never had alot of cash so I usually build my cars on a budget. With that in mind I knew I could run 10's with a stock body B-body car as 9" slicks will fit a stock B-body wheelwell with room to spare and with the tires today you could run 9's on 9" slicks. I went with a very mild build on the car body itself as my 63 is basically a stock body 63 Sport Fury with frame connectors I bolted and welded in and a 6 point rollbar I welded in. That is legal down to 10.0's with the stock firewall. I still use a stock gas tank with a 3/8 sending unit and 3/8 fuel line I ran in the factory place. My suspension I rebuilt with new stock parts but I use 3400 lb Super Stock rear springs and 90/10 Comp shocks up front. All the rest of the suspension is stock. I mounted my battery in the trunk so you have to put a sheet of metal between the trunk and rear seat area when the battery is in the trunk. My car is mostly a street car so thats why I just wanted the 6 point rollbar so I dont have a full cage to worry about hitting my head on while driving on the street. And thats about it for my body as I did not tub anything and did not move my springs in either as its all in stock location. I use a 727 with a Dynamic 9.5 converter and have an 8-3/4 rear. The eng is a pump gas 440/493 stroker I built and it rides and drives great on the street. I drive it to the track and drive and race on 92 pump. Thats good enough for 10.70's so far and I did not break my bank account to put it together. If I had the money I could have bought alot more high dollar race parts for it but its safe and legal and is nice enough for me to keep me happy. I guess my point is sometimes I see guys spend alot more then they have to just to impress their buddies with all the latest high dollar parts when you dont always have to spend all that money. Decide what and how you plan to build it and then work out your budget. Good luck , Ron