69 Coronet 440 Coupe Project Advice

[Sneke_Eyez]

Just wondering if people think that this car is worth saving/worth buying as a project:

1969 Dodge Coronet 440 2 door Coupe (Not hardtop!)

Good:
Numbers matching, running 318 and working tranny - moves under its own power
Complete, if worn, interior
Comes with all trim and chrome
Good, solid framerails

Bad/Needs:
new quarters
rocker panel replacement
at least a partial trunk floor
shackles replaced/repaired


I've always, always, always wanted a 69 Coronet, and I'm going to restomod the crap out of it, so I don't want something super rare/expensive.
Matter of fact, this car is perfect because it is none of those things!
A friend has offered me useage of his trailer to pick it up and I can borrow the company Ram 2500 for a day to pick it up if necessary, so that will make transport super cheap.

I dont need the car to be ready immediately when I buy it.
Its the kind of car I'm going to buy because I'm pretty sure I can get a good deal on it, and then I'm going to hang on to it and restore/restomod it as I have the time/money.
I've got my 74 Dart to finish the resto on and then drive, so the Coronet will be a back burner kind of thing.
If I don't get a deal on it, then I'm going to let it go.

Just seems like an opportunity I don't want to pass up, but I want to make sure I'm not getting in wayyy over my head here before I make that leap. I don't want my excitement at finally getting the 69 Coronet I've always wanted to cloud my judgement.

PS: When I've actually seen the car in something other than some small pictures, I'll have an even better idea of what the car really needs and will post as such.

PPS: Anybody who would like to tell me what they think the car is worth, please feel free to make suggestions!

 

[detmatt1]

Sounds like a great candidate for a resto-mod. Pics would be helpful for giving an estimate on value.

 

[TruBee]

My two cents: I've recently picked up a '69 coronet (see below), and decided to make it a Super Bee resto/mod clone. I chosed the Coronet as a base model, because that way I woouldn't feel guilty about "violating" a true Super Bee with my modifications. And at the same time, I'd be saving/improving a Mopar! I hope that helps?

 

[iraqivet01]

Check listing on used ones, that will give an idea.
Keep in mind model and type of restoration will dictate the price.
plus there are some people out there think the have the hole Grail and want way too much.

 

[iraqivet01]

Best is to make a list of what it needs and then figure out how much it going to cost to get it to your expectation.

Then compare it to one you can buy one running and needs a little TLC.

You will find out it cheaper in the long run to buy one done already. But some of us it doesn't come down to the money, it the pride that you can say, "I did it"

 

[TruBee]

Plus doing it yourself, you know EXACTLY what lies underneath that paint. Some guys can make anything look good with a lot of bondo and undercoating etc...

 

[Cranky]

Keep in mind that coupes are kinda hard to find....

 

[trip]

if northern car you could be getting a rust bucket, and all restorers will tell you, once you get into it, one thing leads to another - if a rust bucket, let someone else do it -
Trip

 

[Propwash]

You will find out it cheaper in the long run to buy one done already. But some of us it doesn't come down to the money, it the pride that you can say, "I did it"

Amen to that! Love my Northern rust bucket!

You need to really assess your skills, tools, equipment, facilities, and money before jumping into a rusty project. Take in to effect what you think is wrong with it and double that workload at least. And yes, it will be more cost effective to buy one already done. Question is, are you willing to take the reigns and dedicate yourself for the next couple years to bring her back to life?

Toss up some pic's of her......Like Matt said, it would be a bit easier to throw out a ball park value on it.

Good Luck!

 

[Sneke_Eyez]

Check listing on used ones, that will give an idea.
Keep in mind model and type of restoration will dictate the price.
plus there are some people out there think the have the hole Grail and want way too much.

I have been, but coupes are kind of hard to find pricing-wise.

Best is to make a list of what it needs and then figure out how much it going to cost to get it to your expectation.

Then compare it to one you can buy one running and needs a little TLC.

Based upon some basic (but realistic) numbers, it needs around $1100 worth of patch panels to be a solid car again. I'm ok with that number.
Obviously, that doesnt include the work to put them in, the time to put them in, and whatever other odds and ends the car will need body-wise, but thats expected.

It already runs and drives, and seems to be within my price range, unlike cars that need less rust work, but that leads me to your next point:

You will find out it cheaper in the long run to buy one done already. But some of us it doesn't come down to the money, it the pride that you can say, "I did it"

Plus doing it yourself, you know EXACTLY what lies underneath that paint. Some guys can make anything look good with a lot of bondo and undercoating etc...

Exactly, and even though I'm an amateur, I'm planning on doing this thing right, so that I can show people the car and say, "Yep, I did it!"

Keep in mind that coupes are kinda hard to find....

I have found this out quickly while trying to search values, but is this really a good thing?
I kind of thought that this meant it was less desirable, as most people would rather have a hardtop.
Personally, I think its neat and I already own a hardtop, so I'm totally ok with a coupe model.
Does it add to the value of the car at all?
Should I expect a retort of, "Well, it is a rare car you know..."

if northern car you could be getting a rust bucket, and all restorers will tell you, once you get into it, one thing leads to another - if a rust bucket, let someone else do it -
Trip

We'll see.
I haven't actually seen the car with my own eyes yet.
When I do that, I'll have a better idea if I'm looking at something that is terribly rusty and will require more than what I have already listed.
If I am, I'll probably walk, but if not, I'm willing to jump into it with what is already listed as being wrong with the car.

Once I get to see it and get some pictures of it myself, I'll post them up, I promise, and then that'll help people figure out what it is worth better.

Thanks for the advice so far!

 

[TruBee]

Plus, you have guys out there swapping out fender tags, restamping VIN's as well as Blocks/frame rails creating "desirable" cars. So unless you're buying from a reputable seller, or have the knowledge and ability to assert a car's identity, you could be getting a lemon dressed as a?...

 

[Cranky]

Coupes were in the lower price line but they were also usually what the bare bones hot rods were built on. The coupes came out before a hardtop was available in 68. They were a bit lighter than the hardtops too. It's kinda unusual to find a coupe that wasn't a Road Runner or an RT with many options as most non hot rod coupes were bare bones transportation and a lot of them were /6 cars but you could order a car back then just about any way you wanted it. So far, the most unusual car I've found was a 69 Satellite with 318 3 speed on the floor and no other options. It even had rubber floor mats. Satellites did have all the chrome tho and that's what the guy wanted. A nice looking car but basic on the inside.

 

[roadrunnerman]

it all boils down to what you are willing to put into the car for what you want to make it into.i have a friend of mine that literally pulled his super bee out of a pig yard when it was just a shell and turnede it into a nice ride.also there are people out there that will take a decent looking and driving car and do a full restoration on it,so you are the one to judge your abilities and say "can i be the one to save this mopar"

 

[70WM21 W1 V6B]

I agree with checking it over very good if it is a northern rust bucket, it can lead into way more than you expect in time, money and parts. As for the value of a hardtop vs coupe should not really weigh in on what you are after. Best way is to assess the cars value IN PARTS as a base to start with, that way if you do buy it and later find out its more than what you bargained for, you can always part it out and recoup your money (or most of it). In the end Dont forget the price of paint and materials alone, unless you are doing it yourself.

 

[Sneke_Eyez]

Revisiting the post because after losing touch with the seller, I finally got in contact with him and got a price out of him.

So, sight unseen, this is what he says the car needs (I know its pretty much outlined in the first post):
Rear Quarters Replaced
Major Rocker "work"
Floor "patches"
Shackles Replaced
Trunk Floor Replaced
Fender "Work"

It runs and moves, with a 69 318, presumably numbers matching. He still hasn't told me what tranny is in it.

I still havent seen the car, but on the phone he told me he wants $3500 firm, "no BS!".
I'm confused because when we first started talking, he told me he wanted something reasonable for it, and this isn't my idea of reasonable.

Am I passing up a deal? Am I right to walk away?
I suppose it doesnt matter, as I really don't want to spend that much on the car, I'm under the opinion that I need to buy a car I can afford to restore later, and that always makes me leave ~$500 or so beyond the budget I give myself for the purchase of the car for initial restoration purchases.
I did it with my Dart and was quite successful in the endeavor.

I suppose I'm just bummed out because I've always wanted a 69 Coronet, and I thought this was my opportunity to finally own one. Now that I told him I couldn't buy it for that price, he put it up on craigslist. I'm sure it'll be gone soon, but I can't justify that much money to myself. I'm in college and getting ready to go to law school...

 

[69Coronetrt]

I still havent seen the car, but on the phone he told me he wants $3500 firm, "no BS!".

Am I passing up a deal? Am I right to walk away?

IMHO...Pass. Go to school, work hard, save your money and buy a better one down the line.

 

[Coledavis01]

I agree, pass on this one! I picked up a matching numbers and running 383 Super Bee that may have been a little bit worse off (rear framerails needed rust repair) for $3,500! It was about 8 years ago. The rust repair will add up very quickly and soon enough you'll be in well over what it's worth if you aren't careful.

 

[Sneke_Eyez]