Anyone know if just this plug is available, the black casing? For a 69 Coronet rallye gauge.
69 coronet headlight switch plug?
- Thread starter 440beep
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I got mine via a WTBuy.. interesting how they melt the same.. lol.
Interesting, I don’t have a yellow wire in mine. Also, I have a grey wire with the pink. I posted in WTB too.
- Local time
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Yep. As you can see the one I got the Yellow isn't being used. Rallye dash plug is a rallye dash plug, although wires may be different.
If you follow the slices in my picture you can see the pink and grey splice to the pink.
If you follow the slices in my picture you can see the pink and grey splice to the pink.
found mine on wtb also. Someone here will likely have it.
Something else confusing is i don’t have a stray black wire flopping around, as it looks like three black wires go to the headlight switch, two together and one solo. I have a dangerous looking red wire flopping around that may go to the broken part, though Wiring diagram doesn’t show a red to the headlight switch.
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BK with * is Black with a White trace stripe...
Nope, no stray black* wires floating around.
UGH, my Bee.
UGH, my Bee.
You have the wrong wiring diagram. The one you have is the standard cluster not the rallye. This is what you should be looking at.
Doing a by-pass of the headlights will take away the problems associated with headlamp switch cooking. 
The yellow goes to the dash light dimming switch which is the separate thumb wheel control on the rallye dash. On a standard cluster the yellow does go to the headlamp switch as the dash light control is on the headlamp stalk. That applies a ground to the yellow to turn on the dome light circuit.
Ummm what? I have relays on the headlights now, if that helps.
Doing a by-pass of the headlights will take away the problems associated with headlamp switch cooking.
OK, if you have already been bypassing the current for the headlights away from the switch, then the terminals at the switch in the plug must have been horribly loose to start the mess you showed us at the top.
Current equals heat, and if you choose to divert the current away from the switch, and directly to the headlights (via relays) then you have gone a long way to solving the problems most people encounter.
Either your switch was half-baked before the bypass, or there was a problem there that was not sorted out.
Have you checked the condition of the foot dimmer switch connectors?
I bet they are baked also.
Sadly that headlight switch has been like that before I got the Bee, now I’m trying to clean the mess. Head Lights, brights, and dimmer all work fine, just figure since gauge panel is out might as well try and fix this time.
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