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69 Plymouth sport satellite

Charger1967

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Mason city Iowa
Started my car just fine, next day turned the key and it just clicked, checked battery connection, that was fine still clicked so I jumped across the relay and it started, could it be the starter relay off the firewall? If so is there a way to test it to be sure it’s that? Thanks in advance
 
Next test, instead of jumping the bat to starter terminals on the solenoid, pull the yellow wire off the solenoid and jump Bat to the lug the yellow wire was on..
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Next test, instead of jumping the bat to starter terminals on the solenoid, pull the yellow wire off the solenoid and jump Bat to the lug the yellow wire was on..

We're waiting....

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How would that start the car?

By bridging between these terminals....

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.... you bypass the guts of the relay and the starter motor and solenoid get full power.
 
He wants to know if the relay is bad. Engine cranks bypassing it, powering the spade the yellow was on is the same as turning the key to start. It should pull the relay in and crank. If it doesn't crank, but will bypassing it, the relay is bad. If it cranks he has wiring issues.
 
He wants to know if the relay is bad. Engine cranks bypassing it, powering the spade the yellow was on is the same as turning the key to start. It should pull the relay in and crank. If it doesn't crank, but will bypassing it, the relay is bad. If it cranks he has wiring issues.
I got extensive experience with this issue with the Ford industrial six that rode on the front of my dry bulk tanker in the 70s. With the electrical system fully exposed to the elements, it was a constant struggle to get them to crank.

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Wiggle the wires at the bulkhead connector. (see post #2) I think the big purple wire is the feed for the dash. I had burnt and corroded connectors at the bulkhead and could wiggle the wires there and get it to crank. The bad connectors would pad enough current to the ignition that I could turn on the key and jump it at the relay to start it. I ended up drilling out the cavity and running a 10 gauge wire through the bulkhead to make it work. The bulkhead connector is there for convenience during assembly and a disconnect for repairs later.
 
He wants to know if the relay is bad. Engine cranks bypassing it, powering the spade the yellow was on is the same as turning the key to start. It should pull the relay in and crank. If it doesn't crank, but will bypassing it, the relay is bad. If it cranks he has wiring issues.
Just buy a new starter relay and test by substitution....their inexpensive enough to have a spare.....you can do all the fiddling and jiggling the wires or replace the relay.....just my opinion......
BOB RENTON
 
Just buy a new starter relay and test by substitution....their inexpensive enough to have a spare.....you can do all the fiddling and jiggling the wires or replace the relay.....just my opinion......
BOB RENTON
A quick jump across with a screwdriver or replace it? Not everyone has your money Bob..... lol That and you're always preaching diagnosis, yet here you are acting like a current day Ford auto tech.
 
I recently had an issue with one that looked ok on the outside....... I opened it up, and a pile of rust fell out
 
A quick jump across with a screwdriver or replace it? Not everyone has your money Bob..... lol That and you're always preaching diagnosis, yet here you are acting like a current day Ford auto tech.
Sort of like buying 10-15 cases of oil filters, then selling the car......
BOB RENTON
 
NO.... it is Uncle Elmo's brother, Waldo....Bummephuche......a totally knowledgeable souce of inconsequential information......
BOB RENTON

thanks.........sometimes it's hard to keep up
 
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