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69 RR dash gauge issues...

northerndave

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hi there, I'm sure I'm not the first to post about gauge issues on a mopar from this era but I think I have enough info & details now to ask my question in a way that maybe those who have gone before me with this fight can help point me in the right direction.

on the dash of my 69 RR I have the alt gauge, fuel, temp and a factory tach.

alt gauge seems fine.

fuel gauge does funtion in a range from left to right but it's just way off as in full to the gas cap reads 1/4 tank & actual empty is far left and below E, out of the scale. Temp gauge comes up but settles in very low at normal operating temp. engine is probably 190-ish but it's actually reading weak on the temp scale, between the C & the normal range on the scale.

this is all with the headlights shut off.

Now, if I turn my headlights on I get no dash lights. Not unless I roll my dash light dimmer wheel all the way up into the dome light position, when I hit that spot my dash lights still don't come on but both signal indicators light up green and my gas gauge climbs to full and the temp gauge climbs as well.

Does anybody have any suggestions for me?
 
that thumb wheel gets corrosion on it ? so thumb it up to the dome light point and roll it back and forth several times . Then do it again . That should knock the corrosion off the dimmer . Roll it all the way up again and then back it off just slightly to turn off the dome light . That should give you full on dash lights when the head light switch is on . THey are still kind dime , old technology , I changed all my bulbs out for LED's I see much better not ? I'm blind as it is .

The rest of your issues you could also replace the regulator and condensor on the back of the cluster . That may help .

cant find a picture of my 69 cluster but here is a 69 rally cluster back , it has the regulator and condesor also I was talking about .

found it.jpg
 
Alright thanks, I recently pulled together a few modern electrical items to replace/upgrade my regulator and eliminate the condensor. I found the info here.

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

I had that headlight switch & dimmer wheel out a few weeks ago and yes there was a bit of corosion on there. I just don't understand why my signal indicator lights lit up on the dome light possition?
 
Sounds like you got a short somewhere if that's happening. How is the condition of the main printed circut board pins and harness plug?
 
not sure on that, I haven't pulled it out to look at it. I've only looked at it from the spine punisher possition.
 
Oh yeah it aint no fun, then try & fish a hand up in there to change a dash light or something, you know there's a chance you might not get your hand back out of there an you know for sure if you do get your hand back you're going to leave some skin up under that dash on a screw or a bracket edge or something :)



circus contortionists don't have anything on your average classic car enthusiest :)
 
You got that right Dave. Every time i'm resting my head on a brake pedal there's always a little voice in my head either saying "my god ! there has to be a better way" or "why the hell am I doing this?"
 
Or "I wonder how long I'll lay here pinned before someone comes & finds me & calls for the jaws of life to free me?"

:grin:

that has actually crossed my mind a few times. :grin:
 
well, it's true. :grin:

ok, I drove the dirty bird to work again theis morning with the lights on. I messed with the dimmer roller switch for dash lights/dome light as I drove. I still found that spot on the dial that made the turn signal indicators light up green and when i found that spot the gauges came up where they should be, both temp and fuel... crazy.

dome light didn't work though, not sure if the bulb is out or what.

also the flasher switch is broken and unplugged.
 
Ok Dave the best thing to do is remove the dimmer switch and actually clean the contact and the spiral wire with a file and scotch pad. Next issue which is REAL IMPORTANT check your alt gauge the way it mounts to the cluster frame, Chrysler used a rectangular fiber like material sandwiched between (2 gauge studs) the frame so it does not ground out, over time(longer than Chrysler figured they would last) they get hot, hard and brittle and come apart which when that happens you will have a dead short with the hot wire and most likely a fire will result! Take it apart and replace the fiber material with something more durable!

Also it would be a good time to replace the Gauge voltage regulator, it is that small rectangular (polished metal) plug in unit( see Stuarts picture ) it looks like it has a condenser with it, these wear out also over time and will make your gauges do funny things.

The turn indicator lights will sometimes come on (low light) when a bulb is out in the park lamp or tail lamp. Also check you turn signal switch in the column as they also wear out and result in funny things happening. Check the connection of the floor mounted dimmer switch also.

The gas gauge will be the unit in the gas tank with basically the same problem as the dimmer wheel switch, the contact that floats up and down the wire over time get corroded and does not read properly (from many years of NOT filling up the upper part does not get used so it will not read years later when you do fill up). Also there is a metal ground strap that clips on and runs from the metal fuel line across the rubber line to the metal sending unit, these rust, break or never get put back on, and without the ground the gauge will not work either.
 
You want to try something crazy...Keys Off..turn your turn signal on either direction, then the 4 way flashers, and step on the brake pedal, if your radio is turned on it will now work in harmony with the flasher beat!
 
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