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69 satellite PS AMD door fitment thoughts

donm

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Coming up on the end of the bodywork and just got everything fitted back up. Needed a new PS door and at the time could not find a good used doner door, so went with an AMD replacement. I know new parts will never match original but it is what it is.
Any thoughts on fixing the fitment, i was thinking bending the gap out brings it close and adding some metal to the brace that comes across to keep it placed. Any other ideas or anyone have the same issue? Also the inner part is lower than the outer a decent amount, not a huge issue, but it bugs me the more i see it

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I'll tell you what I just discovered on mine - the slotted holes on the outer skin (where the cat whiskers clip on) where punched out too low and the whiskers will not install as is. This, of course, is after the door has been fitted, painted, glass in etc. I bought this door a few years ago, so maybe the problem has been corrected, but I'd check it before you get too deep into it. I had to add metal to the edges and file fit the gaps yada, yada, yada but I never thought to check the friggin' slots.

And yes, the whiskers fit like a glove on the other door, which is a factory piece.
 
I'll tell you what I just discovered on mine - the slotted holes on the outer skin (where the cat whiskers clip on) where punched out too low and the whiskers will not install as is. This, of course, is after the door has been fitted, painted, glass in etc. I bought this door a few years ago, so maybe the problem has been corrected, but I'd check it before you get too deep into it. I had to add metal to the edges and file fit the gaps yada, yada, yada but I never thought to check the friggin' slots.

And yes, the whiskers fit like a glove on the other door, which is a factory piece.
Good point. I forgot about those, crap. I tossed my old ones, guess ill have to order replacements early, but Ill check the measurements on the repop while they are on the way. Always seems like a ton of little things pop up when the final prep/paint should've already happened.
 
Make sure that EVERY part fits in the door. Latch, lock pull knob, lock tumbler... etc.. etc.. Make sure the door will latch and sit properly. Mine with the striker fully out had the door 1/4" inboard of the quarter.

We spent over 40 hours on my drivers side door on the Bird. Latch didn't fit, vent window Allen key slot 1/2" off between inner and outer skins etc etc. Hell they forgot to even punch the upper hinge bolt holes.

All covered in my "broke my 7up machine" thread.
 
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I will always go with skin replacement on an original door if I can....but that's just me.... there is bodywork involved when adding a door skin.

And I may have the same issues at fit up.

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I will always go with skin replacement on an original door if I can....but that's just me.... there is bodywork involved when adding a door skin.

And I may have the same issues at fit up.

View attachment 1718488

I leave the new skin "untacked" or "loose" on the frame until the door is hanging on the car......... this allows me to "twist" the door into shape and alignment........ only then do I put a couple tacks on it
 
I leave the new skin "untacked" or "loose" on the frame until the door is hanging on the car......... this allows me to "twist" the door into shape and alignment........ only then do I put a couple tacks on it
Yea .... that I should have done that....:thumbsup:
 
I will always go with skin replacement on an original door if I can....but that's just me.... there is bodywork involved when adding a door skin.

And I may have the same issues at fit up.

View attachment 1718488
When we purchased the new door I wasnt sure i could replace a skin. Now two years later, mabye. Already have the door though so mabye on the next car ill give it a try
 
You could do a relief cut, bend the metal to where you want it, then weld it up.
 
I leave the new skin "untacked" or "loose" on the frame until the door is hanging on the car......... this allows me to "twist" the door into shape and alignment........ only then do I put a couple tacks on it
This is the way. I'll use panel bond, like 3m's 8115, along the perimeter of the door skin, gives you about 1.5 hours work time to manipulate the door for fitment then cures solid. No welding required. Its also rust inhibiting.
 
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