70 b body triangulated 4 link

[slociviccoupe]

hey, i have my triangulated 4 link almost finished. I have the lower bars paralell to the ground at ride height, lower bars are mounted in the frame rail with relocation boxes welded into the frame rail. Lower tabs are welded to the axle shock mounts integrated into lower bar mounts. standard universal triangulated 4 link style. Im looking for who will sell the upper link cross bar mounting bar and shock mounting bar seperate from their kit.
Or some measurements that will help me locate my upper links. also what is a good number to shoot for with pinion angle at ride height? I was told about 2 degrees is good.

i set up the rear using the leaf springs on lowering blocks, welded on the brackets and atatched lower links. This keeping the rear centered, at ride height, and correct pinion angle. now just need to get my upper links atatched to something and the coil overs in and i can get rid of the leaf springs.

 

[howiedodat]

Hello !! Is this something you fabbed up or a "kit" ? Some pics would be great. Is the rear narrowed ? Tubbed ? Thanks

 

[Redpolara]

Hello !! Is this something you fabbed up or a "kit" ? Some pics would be great. Is the rear narrowed ? Tubbed ? Thanks

I'm also curious about your setup, what purpose will the car mainly be used for street,street/strip,strip only?
Something to keep in mind if you intend to do alot of street miles.......in hotrods,a triangulated 4 link setup has a tendancy to bind going around corners ( the rear tends to skip around) admittedly your Mopar is somewhat heavier, but the same suspension geometry principles apply.
Is there any reason you chose triangulated over a parallel 4 link with a panhard bar?
Just asking and just curious.

 

[72 Runner]

These guys have all the stuff you need.
http://www.suicidedoors.com/

 

[slociviccoupe]

it started out as a u weld triangulated 4 link kit. only bought it for the laser cut brackets, and bars. knowing i would have to do my own fabrication. The car will see everyday street use and some strip and roadcourse . Reason for the triangulated 4 link is streetability. Ive seen cars that have a paralell 4 link and panhard bar bend or worst case tear the brackets where they are welded to the axle when going up an obstical say an uneven sidewalk or a small dip. And I wouldn't see any reason why its not totally streetable, mustangs and most older chevy's have a triangulated 4 link stock.

also paralell 4 link with a panhard bar doesn't let the rear move enough to let the car handle. only meant to go straight. this is a pro touring car not a drag car.
i don't have any pics of it on the car yet. but it is spring relocation boxes welded into the frame rails. the lower link is mounted in them. the lower link is paralell to the ground when the car is at ride height. there are brackets welded to the rear like a conventional 4 link setup with the lower bars connected to it. On top the axle tube there are more tabs for the upper bars. these bars are at a 45-60 degree angle eliminating the need for a panhard bar. the angle keeps the rear straight.
im just stuck on how long my upper bars need or should be, the angle they get mounted from the axle tube down to its mounting point. I was told this weekend usually its a 22 degree angle.

 

[slociviccoupe]

car is getting full chassis engineering 12 point cage, magnum force frame rail braces, xv under fender braces, torque boxes front and rear, us car tool subframe connectors, steel 40" wheel tubs, ar engineering big block motor plate, xv level 2 front suspension setup, triangulated 4 link rear suspension on 8-3/4 rear with sure grip.
all in a 1970 roadrunner.

 

[Redpolara]

In no way was I knocking your project, I simply used comparisons and asked questions. The 58 thru 64 Chevs used a parallel 3 link rear end with panhard bar......they got really untidy in the @rse with harsh gear changes. (not sure what GM was thinking when they came up with 3 link), not sure what design they used 65 onwards.

And yes, I understand your concern on the upper and lower bar length ratio and upper mounting bracket angles, both could be detrimental to the cars handling if incorrect.
Can the kit supplier give you any insight into your lenghts/angles questions?
Meanwhile, i have a heap of engineers drawings (somewhere)on 4 link rear ends, I'll try and find them, hopefully.........it'll shed some light on the subject for you.

 

[Cranky]

Have you all ready bought your bars? CE has a checkered history of on and off quality but S&W has a much better history. Based on my experiences and hearing about others, I don't buy anything from CE anymore....plus the customer service is always better for me at SW. Their contact is:

Don Scholl, V.P. Sales & Marketing
S&W Race Cars
800-523-3353 x112
[email protected]

And no, I don't work for them.....

 

[moparmike]

http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/30.pdf