727 help

[Jorge Zamora]

Hey FBBO members, i have a 65' coronet with a 318 poly hooked up to a 727 transmission, the tranny is not a push button, but it still uses the same cable as a push button trans i believe, ive been needing a rebuild as my first gear is grinding and my transmission case has a big crack that causes it to leak. I was wondering if it would be easier to rebuild the tranny and get a new case, or buy a new tranny and have a fresh one. the only problem is that i can not find the same 727 that i have, so i was wondering if a 727 from a 66' and up would still be compatible to my cart or would i NEED to find the same one as i have. Please help

 

[Ron H]

'65 was the conversion year ending buttons though retaining the cable with the lever until '66. The '65 trans could still be set up for buttons. My memory is foggy but here's a link telling ya all sorts of tidbits on these trans maybe more than you want to know but may be some info within that is helpful...

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html

 

[Fran Blacker]

Its earlier than 66.

 

[mccoymail]

I have a 727 that came from my 65. It all there but i would consider it a core in need of full rebuild. If interested, PM me.

 

[furyus]

I went with a 67 up style trans. It made things simpler for adding performance items. Schumacher makes a trans mount that will fit the old crossmember, with the newer trans. You get better convertor choices, which you will need a new one anyway, since a lot of shops won't warranty the work without a new convertor. You will need a shifter for the newer style trans. I used a B&M. If you want it all original, you'll need to source a 65 only small block trans, since yours is cracked. Also be aware, whichever way you go, I think there's a difference in the size of the convertor pilot hole in the back of the crank from the 67 up style, meaning you will need the convertor "nipple" to be the correct size when you have the new convertor done.

 

[Jorge Zamora]

I went with a 67 up style trans. It made things simpler for adding performance items. Schumacher makes a trans mount that will fit the old crossmember, with the newer trans. You get better convertor choices, which you will need a new one anyway, since a lot of shops won't warranty the work without a new convertor. You will need a shifter for the newer style trans. I used a B&M. If you want it all original, you'll need to source a 65 only small block trans, since yours is cracked. Also be aware, whichever way you go, I think there's a difference in the size of the convertor pilot hole in the back of the crank from the 67 up style, meaning you will need the convertor "nipple" to be the correct size when you have the new convertor done.

Thanks! this seems like a simpler things to do since its been pretty hard to find a 65 trans, and id like to add some performance features so a 67 up trans seems like trans to get for that

 

[dvw]

Where is the crack? Depending on the location it may be able to be welded. A 62-64 small block case can be used with the 65 output shaft and tail housing.
Doug

 

[Lefty71]

I have a good 65 318 small block 727 case that im not going to be using. You can also buy one from A&A for a reasonable price, since the case, and a rebuild kit is all you really need. As an alternative, they can sell you a cable setup to fit in the much easier to find 66-and up 727's (I think these are really cables from Imperial Services???)

Im no guru by any means, but im wondering if first gear grinds and the case cracked if you didn't bust the case with a fried sprag??? Does it leak from the rear near where the tailstock bolts on??

 

[Jorge Zamora]

this is the crack on my trans, i patched it up a while ago with some jb weld mix, but after a while it just doesnt do the job and begins to leak, the crack is just one long crack in the middle of that whole patched surface

 

[dvw]

If that crack ends before the pump surface it is not causing the leak. The fluid would be coming from the front seal, vent, or pump O-ring. In that case it could be welded. Then the leak repaired. If it goes into the pump mounting area the case is junk.
Doug

 

[Jorge Zamora]

If that crack ends before the pump surface it is not causing the leak. The fluid would be coming from the front seal, vent, or pump O-ring. In that case it could be welded. Then the leak repaired. If it goes into the pump mounting area the case is junk.
Doug

Ok thank you this is very helpful actually, of what i remember i dont think the crack caused a full leak, but the leaking did stop for a while when i patched it up. But thank you i will check out the front seal then and see if that is the problem in the end.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your not sure where crack ends, dye check will work. Expensive to buy for one use, an engine builder or welder may have a kit. Red lines are the cracks. Wah,Wah,Wah!
http://www.dymarkindustries.com/product-range/inks-and-dyes/flawchek-crack-detection