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727 linkage adjustment

Canyon707

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I have a 727 transmission that is used in my drag car. My question is linkage adjustment. It does not have any kickdown its just sex for drag racing not regular driving. On the trans is the shift lever which clicks into each gear as i move forward and backwards. My question is each click of the lever on the trans a different gear? PRN123 I am just trying to set up my shifter so that it is engaged completely in each gear. So any help would be great. I was going to put the lever in park to start and then hook the linkage to it and see if it moves through each click correctly is this the right way to do it????
 
Start out in neutral.... and some pics of that sexed up ***** trans...
 
did you have the transmission built, and did the builder install a reverse manual Valve body?
if so do you know whos' Valve body was installed
what type of shifter are you using?
 
yes it has a reverse valve body and I am using the Turbo action shifter. The reverse is controled in neutral with the trans break button.
 
Neutral is were you start adjustment from its most important....their should be a pdf on it at the turbo action web site... there all more or less the same deal.

Indexing the trans is what it is called
 
sorry I have been busy Sleep is right manually put the unit in neutral than adjust the shifter.
 
Well I went to the turbo shifter installation sheet and it said to put it in third first to adjust the linkage with a reverse valve body.

Part # 7001
1 2 2/92,9/98,2/01,1/02,6/05,6/06,3/07
USE LIFTER ONL
Y
T
O GO INT
O REVERSE!
The unique reverse lockout system requires only that
you lift the reverse lockout mechanism with your fingers while placing into reverse with the same
hand.
NOTE:
Do
NOT
lift mechanism for any other shift.
CAUTION: In
a race car it is imperative that the forward gears be precise in relation to the
shifter.
CAUTION! CAUTION!
Be absolutely sure that vehicle is in park or neutral position before
attempting to start motor.
SPECIAL NOTE: Sanctioned dragstrips require functional Neutral Safety Switch mandatory.
STEP #1: The shifter is preassembled and only requires locating a suitable spot to mount it and
hooking up necessary brackets to hang cable to side of transmission.
STEP #2: If mounting shifter on thin floor pan, such as a Super Gas or Econo-Altered, would
suggest putting a thin steel strapping behind floor pan to offer a support where the
shifter mounting bolts go through. Be sure to locate shifter in a position which will be
comfortable for the driver to shift.
SPECIAL NOTE: The Chrysler shifter control has the cable coming out forward
towards engine, makes a 180 turn down the passenger side of
the transmission towards the rear of the car, then a 90 turn
towards driver side of car going under the tailhousing
between the pan and the tailhousing mount and now a 90 turn
towards the front of the car and attach to the bracket on the
transmission.
The special cable included is very unique in that you can run tight radius turns and the shifter
will still shift smoothly and be positive in shift feel! However, be careful to keep away from
rotating parts (driveshaft) and hot parts (headers, mufflers).
STEP #3: Install transmission Case Bracket on back hole located in transmission driver’s side,
Fig. #1&#2.
STEP #4: Install Cable on transmission Case Bracket per Fig. #1&#2.
STEP #5: Install Shift Lever on transmission, Fig. #1&#2.
STEP #6: Push Shift Lever all the way forward towards engine.
CAUTION: In
a race car it is imperative that the forward gears be precise in relation to the
shifter.
STEP #7: Place shifter in third when adjusting for a reverse pattern (PRN123) valve body.
STEP #8: Adjust Pivot to fit in Shift Lever properly.
STEP #9: Before installing Hairspring Cotter, have someone sit in car and move shifter lever
through each gear while you check to see if shift lever on transmission is moving full distance.
 
when i did my 67 with turbo action and reverse manual body it was very easy.put it in third,like they said,and installed pin into shift arm.getting the pin into the arm is a bit of a bitch with everything tightened up.i loosened the u bolt that holds the shifter cable to the trans and it made it much easyer.shifter gate already lines up all the gears as long as you get that 3rd lined up from the start.
 
well I am going to test it out either tomorrow or the weekend. I also had some concers about what transmission fluid to use its a 727 with revers valve body and set up for drag racing only I am lost after reading everysones opinion. whats yours???
 
old school thinking leans towards ford type F
I prefer ATF+4 synthetic not all ATF+4 is synthetic
factory Mopar ATF+4 is synthetic castrol and Valvoline offer it too>

why I suggest ATF+4? it hadles the heat much better than Ford Type F
and the viscosity stays stable during temperature change.
Just my 2 cents
 
I did use ATF+4 I read an interesting from Chrysler on this and it seemed to be the one to use. Thanks for your input
 
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