74 K frame isolator replacement cost ?

[Charlied]

Would like to replace these four as well the two on the outer cross member. I have all the
“Biscuits”, sleeves and washers. Job is well above and beyond my skill set.
Any idea what this might cost to have done? One other issue is the rear driver side tab has some rot, so welding a patch would be needed.
Thanks

 

[Bb70charger500]

It's honestly a fairly simple repair the welding is a bit I tailed I have a good end I think I can sell you . I bet if you hire a welder he will probably do the job for a few bucks .

 

[padam]

QUOTE="Charlied, post: 911862568, member: 34608"]Would like to replace these four as well the two on the outer cross member. I have all the
“Biscuits”, sleeves and washers. Job is well above and beyond my skill set.
Any idea what this might cost to have done? One other issue is the rear driver side tab has some rot, so welding a patch would be needed.
Thanks[/QUOTE]
I did mine this winter.
I did not disassemble the front end, just took the isolaters out, one side at a time, pried the frame apart and put the new ones in.
Tha second side (passenger) I had real hard time getting things lined up.
Therefore I would not recommend this method. I think it would be better to disassemble it more, but not sure how much.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Line up bar is key in this repair!
I would loosen all 4 with Jack under k frame take two out replace parts start bolt s take other to out replace ..... Tighten up !
Again fairly easy you need a good impact or big bar to loosen bolts I'd advise replacement bolts as there 99% time rusted bad in the rubbers .
I would suggest on blaster on the nuts in the frame a few times before removal if you brake a bolt you got issues but out of the multi dozen s I've done I've never broken a bolt !

 

[Montclaire]

If you didn’t need to repair the K it would be a lot easier. I’d actually see if I could find a good K to swap in.

You can suspend the engine with some steel channel across the aprons, unbolt the mounts and drop the K that’s in there. You’ll have to pull the steering column (if power just unbolt the pump and let it ride with the K) and free the knuckles.

If you decide to farm it out, a shop that is familiar with older Mopars can probably do it faster (cheaper).

 

[Charlied]

It's honestly a fairly simple repair the welding is a bit I tailed I have a good end I think I can sell you . I bet if you hire a welder he will probably do the job for a few bucks .

Thanks. For the swift reply. Could you send me a picture of the piece you have and what the price is .
Thanks

 

[Charlied]

Line up bar is key in this repair!
I would loosen all 4 with Jack under k frame take two out replace parts start bolt s take other to out replace ..... Tighten up !
Again fairly easy you need a good impact or big bar to loosen bolts I'd advise replacement bolts as there 99% time rusted bad in the rubbers .
I would suggest on blaster on the nuts in the frame a few times before removal if you brake a bolt you got issues but out of the multi dozen s I've done I've never broken a bolt !

Second question, with regard to the bolts, can’t seem to ID. I have a 74 Mopar parts book, which is no help. Checked out web site : bolts.com great site and think P/N #810 correct but not sure. It’s dimensions: diameter 3/4, thread/in 16, length 4 1/2 in. Width across flats 1 1/8 in.
Bolt is grade #8. Does this make sense? Just wanted be prepared.
Thanks

 

[Montclaire]

I don't think they are commonly available. Member Moparmarks may have a clean set for sale.

 

[Charlied]

I don't think they are commonly available. Member Moparmarks may have a clean set for sale.

 

[Charlied]

Hi Montclaire,

Would have a set of bolts available for sale ?

 

[Bb70charger500]

@moparmarks
May have a set available witch is what montclaire was saying

Mopar marks has tons of good parts well worth checking with him when looking for stuff especially odd ball stuff!