• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

8-3/4 question

zigs

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:15 AM
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
409
Reaction score
255
Location
Yakima Washington
Were
upload_2019-10-10_18-51-35.png
all B-body 8-3/4 axles adjustable. if not what years were.
 
I believe all 8 3/4's were adjustable from the factory. Pre 65 ones were setup differently though.
 
So by my picture can you tell if this is pre 65 or not? Its out of a Belvedere. Previous owner said it belonged to his dad but didn't know what year , must have been detached from the car when he got it.
 
There is only one adjuster on the passenger side. That side adjusts both sides.

Also the earlier 8.75 had a nut on the axle. The newer style has axles with no nut.
 
So by my picture can you tell if this is pre 65 or not? Its out of a Belvedere. Previous owner said it belonged to his dad but didn't know what year , must have been detached from the car when he got it.

Your adjuster setup is 65 and newer and like BeepBeepRR stated the pre 65 setup used a nut on the outside of the axle and I believe you had to use shims on the pre 65 setup to adjust the end play instead of the newer setup like you have.
 
1964 and earlier would have had what is called a tapered axle. As I said before it would have a nut and a hub assembly.
IMG_3578.jpg


65 and later would have Axles that slide in.
875rearend.jpg
 
The lock is supposed to be on the bottom stud. Kim
That lock placement is wrong? Easy enough to switch. Thanks that helped a lot.
PS what s the axle lock for. Does it keep the axle from floating ?
 
I believe it's to adjust the side to side shaft play,(lash)? There is a specified amount of allowable movement. I think it gets adjusted with feeler gauges. Not sure how much is recommended by Chrysler. It's been over 40 years for me. Good luck!:)
 
The 1966 Factory service manual states .013 to.023 for the axle shaft end play. Usually a dial indicator is used to set the clearance. Most just go by feel.
 
Also doesn't matter which stud the adjuster lock is. Set your axle end play and put the adjuster on the stud where it fits best.
 
Last edited:
Is it just me, or do those flange nuts look like they're not getting much engagement on the studs?
 
Also doesn't matter which stud the adjuster lock is. Set your backlash and put the adjuster on the stud where it fits best.

I always found the adjuster lock positioned at 2:00 stud and held down with that washer head nut shown in #1 post on the 2:00 stud.
Yes, those adjuster nuts are not drawn down enough on the studs.
Mike
 
I always found the adjuster lock positioned at 2:00 stud and held down with that washer head nut shown in #1 post on the 2:00 stud.
Yes, those adjuster nuts are not drawn down enough on the studs.
Mike
I had already backed nuts off , thought I'd better ask the question before I got too far along.
 
The 1966 Factory service manual states .013 to.023 for the axle shaft end play. Usually a dial indicator is used to set the clearance. Most just go by feel.
Dial indicator is best; after you set it and try the end play, you’ll feel it move but not really see movement(if that makes sense).
 
It's also a good idea to whack the axle ends during adjustment checks to make sure everything is seated before you button it up.I use a Snap-on deadblow plastic faced 2 lb hammer.Don't beat the hell out of it.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top