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8.75 yolk u-bolt conversion?

superchrgrheavn

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Location
Gilbert AZ.
I'm replacing a leaking pinion seal/grooved yolk off a 742 center section. I believe it's the larger yolk size. Each of the four surfaces has issues; some I can file down to even out, but one corner is pretty badly marred (circled). Either I order a new yolk from Dr. Diff or I'm thinking I can just drill the holes out and throw in u-bolts, which people seem to prefer anyways. I guess first am I missing something? and if not do you know if u bolts for the joints are available?
Thanks, Some Kid

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Used could buy U-bolts for them....just had to drill out the threads in the yoke and push in the u-bolts.
 
I broke a u-joint once (my fault) and it mangled my yoke bad. i got one of these. drilled out the threads and away you go... Just need to ID your yoke/u-joint and get the proper one.

*Loctite it well
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I'm replacing a leaking pinion seal/grooved yolk off a 742 center section. I believe it's the larger yolk size. Each of the four surfaces has issues; some I can file down to even out, but one corner is pretty badly marred (circled). Either I order a new yolk from Dr. Diff or I'm thinking I can just drill the holes out and throw in u-bolts, which people seem to prefer anyways. I guess first am I missing something? and if not do you know if u bolts for the joints are available?
Thanks, Some Kid

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View attachment 1832952
What does the seal surface look like? My past experience is that those yokes do not take well to a u-bolt conversion. There is not a lot of meat there for drilling and the back side does not have much room for a nut. If it were me I would get a new yoke, straps, and bolts and dont look back.
 
What does the seal surface look like? My past experience is that those yokes do not take well to a u-bolt conversion. There is not a lot of meat there for drilling and the back side does not have much room for a nut. If it were me I would get a new yoke, straps, and bolts and dont look back.
All you are doing is taking out the threads....but it is better to get a new billet yoke and get rid of the standard one. Thing is you now have a strong yoke and the rest of the rearend is still factory weak... not that the 8 3/4 is a weakling but it is not as strong as say a Dana 60 in stock form.....
 
Hey, sorry for the late response. Toeing the line between polishing a turd or doing safe and easy option is tough. I've decided I'll just fork out the cash and get one that I feel good with spinning at speed. I appreciate the input
 
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