904 install

[Moparmurf]

hey guys having trouble putting my transmission back in, any tips or tricks

 

[Cranky]

Exactly what are you having trouble with? Getting it to mate with the engine? Do you have the converter already stuck into the trans?

 

[Moparmurf]

Exactly what are you having trouble with? Getting it to mate with the engine? Do you have the converter already stuck into the trans?

Yes I am using a floor jack just can’t seem to get it lined up, need put one in before

 

[Moparmurf]

Yes I am using a floor jack just can’t seem to get it lined up, never put one in before

 

[moper]

It can be tricky unless the jack has the adjustable platform to hold it properly and angle it at the same time. Only tips I can give is make sure the convertor is fully seated, try to get the car supported in such a way that the back of the engine is perpendicular to the ground, and you can always get a couple long bolts, to fit the block and cut the heads off to make some guide pins for it. Not perfect, but it helps. It should seat completely without needing to "draw it up" to the block with bolts.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Moper has some good ideas. It can help to hang the transmission onto a couple extra long bolts (stock size, just 6" or so longer) to support the weight of the transmission so you have both hands free to get it the last way in. Also mentioned by Moper….very important....many torque converters "seem" like they're seated all the way in the transmission, but they're not...they need a twist/wiggle & they slide back into the transmission an inch or two further....I'm not sure if the A904 is like that, but many are.

Pictures and more detail would help you (& us). There are a TON of very sharp Chrysler people on this website...helpful too.

 

[Moparmurf]

It can be tricky unless the jack has the adjustable platform to hold it properly and angle it at the same time. Only tips I can give is make sure the convertor is fully seated, try to get the car supported in such a way that the back of the engine is perpendicular to the ground, and you can always get a couple long bolts, to fit the block and cut the heads off to make some guide pins for it. Not perfect, but it helps. It should seat completely without needing to "draw it up" to the block with bolts.

Thx for the tip

 

[Lefty71]

Look it over carefully before you start. If its a different tranny going back in, be positive its the right one, IE, big block to big block pattern, /6 to /6 etc. Make the sure the dowel pin holes are clean (and theres not a dowel pin stuck in the tranny, doh!). If you really cant see what the big problem is, try a dry run with no converter. If that works out smoothly, then measure the converter engagement, make up a small holder from a piece of scrap metal bolted to one of the inspection cover holes to hold it the full way in as you get the trans back into position, and try again. Also, again, if anything has been changed, check the converter hub size against the crankshaft pilot hole to ensure they will go together (you could try just holding the converter up for a dry run without the tranny too). Don't force anything, it wont be necessary. HTH, Lefty71

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Wow Lefty....you are on the mark!

 

[miller]

Hold yer mouth right!!

 

[beanhead]

Try positioning the jack under the front part of the pan (on a small piece of plywood, or something that's approximately the same shape as the pan). That makes it easier to tilt the trans around by the tail shaft. I get it close, then stick a phillips screwdriver/steel rod/something that can slide through, the lower passenger side bolt hole. That helps you lever it around a little at the front and keeps the first hole lined up. Then work it around to get another hole lined up, and try to get a bolt started...It'll start falling into place after that.
And another agree for what Lefty said, especially the part about bolting something to the dust cover hole to hold the converter in place. I just found a little piece a metal from an old set of mini-blinds and drilled a couple holes in it, and bent it to how I needed it.

 

[miller]

Is this with the engine still in the car? If so, yeah, can be harder to stab the trans.

Most of the time, flexplate to converter, there's one of four bolt holes that's offset. I always mark both the flexplate, and converter, and turn the engine until that offset hole is at the bottom. Just makes it easier to get it all lined up.

Engine in car...how do you have the rear of the engine supported? Usually, have to lower the rear of the engine, to have enough clearance, before you can stab the trans. Two dowels in the rear of the block, put the converter in place, in the trans. I use a small C-clamp near the bottom of the housing, to keep the converter from slipping out.
Once the trans is up enough, aim for the dowel pins, and should slip in. Just need clearance, all the way around. Trans crossmember on the floor, until trans bolts are all in.

 

[Don Frelier]

Can't stress enough make sure the converter is seated properly and does not slide forward when you are wrestling with the trans.
I usually find or make a tab to hold it back in the transmission and use one of the dust cover bolt holes to secure it until I get the transmission bolted up. The converter face should be about 1/4" - 3/8" back from the front of the trans case when fully seated. Ideally you need to pull the converter forward slightly after you get the bellhousing bolted up.
It helps to have good lighting in the engine compartment and look down the trans from the tailshaft end towards the back of the motor.
My floor jack has a removable round plate on top. I take it off and put a piece of 3/4" plywood about 12" square and bolt it to the jack.
It works pretty well.

 

[beanhead]

Miller just mentioned another inportant thing....support the rear of the engine! It doesn't take much, most of the weight is still on the mounts so you're kinda just levering it. I use a 1" wide ratchet strap, run around the back, under the bellhousing area then over something on the firewall. Last time I think I used the 3 bolts for the wiper motor.

 

[JedIEG]

I just did this and fought with it for 2 hours one day and slid it in in 10 minutes the next day. Key was to let the back of engine sag a little to give you a shot at lining the dowel pins up. Second, make sure the trans is pointed in the same directon as the engine. I had to slide the trans backward on the jack to allow the tail to point down more. If you dont have it strapped down to the jack somehow, you should for safety and ease of manuvering. Last tip which helped was a wood clamp you can clamp the engine to the bellhousing with. Raise the trans to the height you need on one side, start the dowel in and clamp it. Go to the other side and do the same. Once the dowels are in you should be able to get a bolt in and you are home free.

 

[miller]

Grey matter fog. Hey, I'm a old guy!

If the fill tube is in place...take it out of the trans...it's just in the way. Easily put back in, once the engine/trans is in place.