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a body rear in a b body

daredevil

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Thinking about moving the perches out on an a rear and bolting it in my 66 net. I figure this will give me the inch of clearance i need for my 8.5 inch coke bottle americans. Am I crazy?
 
Nope, Did that to a 72 Satalite . Took out the 8 1/4, moved the springs inboard and installed the A rear with new BB axles. Boat loads of tire clearance. Your 66 not as wide as the 72. May look like it belongs there.
 
Let us know how this turns out. My brother has been talking about doing this to his 66 Sat, and just found an A body axle. At least I talked him out of tubbing it.

I know these are tight, but tire tech has come a long way since 66 and I have 235 15 with a good tread compound, and I hear 255 or even 275 will fit.

I'm a "form follows function" kind of guy, and I say, if you NEED mini tubs, then do it, but if you don't, why cut up your car?
 
I rolled the bead on one side and wish i hadnt. Cause now i cant run the wheel opening trim. I have the old school wheels one set 8.5 with 235s and a set of 7 inch with 9 inch slicks. Motors around 600 horse with 4.10s so i need to stuff as much tire as i can.Heres the car and wheels.

Picture 365 (Large).jpg
 
I bolted on a set of 275 60 15 with a 4.75" BS wheel and they fit on my car - 66 Belvedere. Currently I'm running 255 60 15 on an 8" wheel with 4.375" BS and those required that I rolled my fender lips for additional clearance. I like the idea of using the A body rear. Another thing about modifying the A body housing is you can get the pinion angle just right and get the axle centered.
 
Instead of doing all that work to move the spring pads out 1/2" to the side, why don't you just move the hangers in 1/2"? Plus doing any welding to the housing is only going to make it move due to the heat. Drilling new bolt holes for the hangers isn't that big of a deal but if you think the new holes are too close to the old ones, you can always tack weld them too. You can mock it up to see what you need to do to the rear hangers but I'm betting not much. Also, if you're doing to do any work of this kind at all, why not move the springs in and get them out of the way entirely? One of the things I'm planning on doing on my 66 is mini tubs and getting rid of the 'bump' in the outter part of the wheel house....
 
I put a 67 B body 8 3/4 in my 73 Duster. Almost dropped right in. You would think the same might apply going the other way. I think it's like 3/8 or 1/2" per side difference.

I also think logic says you can accomplish the same thing with back spacing.

In the case of my Duster, it was MUCH easier to find a B body axle, and and it actually made the car look better, as it put the rear wheels on the same track as the front.
 
I put a 67 B body 8 3/4 in my 73 Duster. Almost dropped right in. You would think the same might apply going the other way. I think it's like 3/8 or 1/2" per side difference.

I also think logic says you can accomplish the same thing with back spacing.

In the case of my Duster, it was MUCH easier to find a B body axle, and and it actually made the car look better, as it put the rear wheels on the same track as the front.
I assume your Duster came with disc brakes? I remember them and see that from time to time. The front track width vs the rear is easily noticed on those.....
 
Yup Discs. Now that you mention it, drum dusters do seem a bit narrower in the front track.

BTW, daredevil, I generally don't like tail stripes on body styles that aren't supposed to have them (or HIP colors on cars that are pre-HIP era), but that is one sweet Coronet.
 
I replaced my '64 Polara's 8 3/4 with a 70 Barracuda Dana. Bolted right up, even the E brake cables hooked up. Drive shaft had to be modified though. Both axles in the Dana are the same lenth so the H 50's I had, had just enough room without any fender shaving!
 
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