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Acid dip and e-coating around Los angles?

luis9995

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Hi everyone I'm looking for places to have my car acid diped and e coated here in Los Angeles. I found one to acid dip in the San Fernando valley which is around where I am at but not sure if anyone knows their work? They are called L and M stripping. Or if anyone knows of other places for acid dipping I would love to know of more than one to keep my options open when picking. Also need places for e-coating. I don't know of any. Thanks

Willing to travel a little further like San Diego/ Las Vegas, NV, northern CA. Thanks
 
Just curious what you want to have e-coated? You can just about scratch that stuff off with your fingernail.

And fyi, regarding e-coat. That is normally done in VERY large tanks and parts are dipped into the tank on a conveyor line.
1. Most e-coaters won't do any small jobs on other people's parts for risk of contaminating their tanks (costs tens of thousands of dollars)
2. If they will e-coat for you, you are limited to only the color(s) they have in their tanks.
 
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Just curious what you want to have e-coated? You can just about scratch that stuff off with your fingernail.

And fyi, regarding e-coat. That is normally done in VERY large tanks and parts are dipped into the tank on a conveyor line.
1. Most e-coaters won't do any small jobs on other people's parts for risk of contaminating their tanks (costs tens of thousands of dollars)
2. If they will e-coat for you, you are limited to only the color(s) they have in their tanks.
Acid dip the body/parts then shoot a THIN, almost transparent coat of DuPont Variprime overall. Let it flash off for a couple hours, lightly scuff with red scotch-brite, then shoot over all with an epoxy sealer.
Variprime is an acid base self etching primer which bonds with the metal very well, is an excellent rust/corrosion inhibitor....it is also an adhesion promoter for whatever it's coated over with. It is NOT good as a surface building primer. It is MORE effective in THIN application. Follow it with a quality self etching epoxy/sealer, such as PPG DP-40. Break that open with 120 grit & do any fill work on that & try not to break through the DP-40 while sanding the filled areas. Any broken areas spot back in with the DP-40. Any areas broken back to metal would be extra insurance to re-dust with Variprime before application of more DP.
DP-40 is a convertible, can be mixed thin for application as a sealer, can be shot unreduced via gravity gun or pressure pot as a surface builder to be blocked out.
 
After the body comes out of acid dip, it should be covered in plastic to barrier airborne contaminants settling on it until it's ready to be sealed. Would not hurt to scuff out raw metal with GREEN scotch-brite prior to application of whatever product(s)used to base seal.
 
So you guys pulsar rcommend ecoating? My dad usually has his cars sand blasted and powder coated the body and a bunch of parts but I had hard acid dipping and ecoating was better? Would acid dipping and powder coating be better?
 
I had mine alkaline dipped (less aggressive than acid) then sprayed with a water based rust inhibitor. Did all my metal work then, rear quarter replacement etc. words of wisdom I pulled a half a five gallon bucket of dried up crap in all the sandwiched metal areas of car, (especially between trunk extensions and rear quarters) spun on rotisserie for weeks debrie kept falling out looked like battery corrosion on the terminals. I went thru every frame rail, rocker etc. with a piece of hanger wire 12 feet long (used for suspended ceilings) with a bend on the end other end connected to a cordless drill, worked great. night before I had it e coated I power washed the car to remove rust inhibitor, spun it on the rotisserie over and over, then took a leaf blower to it and got the water out. the place in Elkhart Indiana, then dipped it in a seven step process to remove the surface rust created by cleaning it with water and prep with i believe nickel phosphate, then dipped. the coating was very durable had some small chunks in the paint, sanded off very hard. they also put some dents in my brand new rear quarters. on the plus side every square inch of the car was coated wherever the liquid could flow. been on for two years, no problems, unlikely car will ever rust. I have heard stories of guys getting there car stripped and then dipped in a couple days, and not getting all the crap out, it burns holes in the areas where the stuff is still there sealed in the e coat, then burning holes thru the metal, ruining there car, also lead seams to boil out in this process too, i did my sail panel area with lead it blew it out, even flowed a little of the original lead surrounding the window pillars. good luck, and yes i would do it again, not many people have a car that's sealed up this well.
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I'd like to have my '68 blasted and epoxy primed in the LA area. Considering Cal-Blast in Upland. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
I'd like to have my '68 blasted and epoxy primed in the LA area. Considering Cal-Blast in Upland. Anyone have any suggestions?
My dad says if you do this you would need to have it painted asap. Or later in the cars life it could get bibles under the paint even being a California car. Since there's always moisture in the air no matter where u live. That's why he seals his cars with a powder coating. His cars are chevy cars so he does the frame separate that's why I figured for my mopars maybe I'd try something different since it's a unibody and can't take the frame off to do that and not sure if it'll come out the same
 
Acid dip What neutralizes the acid? DonSeleck's process safer. Try to load inside rockers with primer/sealer. Acid dip is for race cars .
 
Hi Luis, I just found this old post of yours looking for a place to acid dip your car in the LA area. Did you ever find one? What did you end up doing? We're not sure if we want to dip our car or media blast it. We're also in Los Angeles.
 
I think the body condition is a factor. How much rust and type of rust.

I know Troy ns1rm21 is going to have his Duster blasted and has a place in so called lined up he’s uses in San Fernando valley somewhere. I’ll ask.
 
the advantage to having the car chemically dipped is, when I replaced the rear quarters on the car, I pealed apart the rear steel, and at all pinch welds there was no rust, pretty much clean metal, Probably the best result I have ever seen, so all rust is gone. the alkaline was netraulized when it went to Indiana for the electrocoat dip, which the car went thru another acid dip this time with a nickel phosphate treatment. currently the car is at Richard Petty's garage where it received an engine upgrade and will be going on a nationwide car show tour. The car has been named "The White Ghost". It is the last car to go thru Petty's garage, The owner just called me tonight with the update. The car will be shown with a demon 170 and a 1970 Super bird (green) and another matching green demon 170. The car has been signed by Richard himself and "is" the last car going thru Petty's garage. So if you can have the car dipped do it, but make sure it is cleaned with water and re dipped. And the best part is there will be no sand abrasive falling out of the car forever.
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