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Added front Disc what brake lines??

vanrj1

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I added front Disc brakes and now have a proportioning valve so stock pre-made lines will not work, so I am told. I don't want to try and make my own all the way to each wheel, What options, if any, are there. This is the valve that mounts to the master cylinder.
 

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if you have a prop valve that mounts to the master you will more than likely have to make the metal lines yourself.its not very hard,just take your time.depending on your caliper you may need to have a custom rubber line made as well.most b bodys use about an 18 inch line with ends to hook up to your system.the banjo bolt can be hard to get,so i hope you have one for your caliper.
 
if you have a prop valve that mounts to the master you will more than likely have to make the metal lines yourself.its not very hard,just take your time.depending on your caliper you may need to have a custom rubber line made as well.most b bodys use about an 18 inch line with ends to hook up to your system.the banjo bolt can be hard to get,so i hope you have one for your caliper.

And, do what I did...
I went to NAPA and found some 6", 8", 10", 12" ETC pre-assembled lines. I measured and pre-bent them to fit.
Is this what you mean?
The lines coming from "Master Cylinder" to the "Proportioning Valve?"

See pic below...
 

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if you have a prop valve that mounts to the master you will more than likely have to make the metal lines yourself.its not very hard,just take your time.depending on your caliper you may need to have a custom rubber line made as well.most b bodys use about an 18 inch line with ends to hook up to your system.the banjo bolt can be hard to get,so i hope you have one for your caliper.

Yes, I did get a flexible hose that seems like it will work. I just don't have patience when it comes to making lines. I will have to make do I guess.

And, do what I did...
I went to NAPA and found some 6", 8", 10", 12" ETC pre-assembled lines. I measured and pre-bent them to fit.
Is this what you mean?
The lines coming from "Master Cylinder" to the "Proportioning Valve?"

See pic below...

I got the short tubing to go to the master from the valve. I just wanted to buy pre-vent tubing to do the rest.
 
How about you keep the stock distribution block and lines and just add an inline adjustable proportioning valve somewhere on the brake line for the rears? (like Wilwoods) Granted it won't be a preset pressure, but you'll have adjustability. $40-50 bucks

Just tossing it out there
 
How about you keep the stock distribution block and lines and just add an inline adjustable proportioning valve somewhere on the brake line for the rears? (like Wilwoods) Granted it won't be a preset pressure, but you'll have adjustability. $40-50 bucks

Just tossing it out there

Well, that's a thought. I usually ready, Fire, Aim with my car stuff and this is where it gets me.....lol
 
Yes, I did get a flexible hose that seems like it will work. I just don't have patience when it comes to making lines. I will have to make do I guess.



I got the short tubing to go to the master from the valve. I just wanted to buy pre-vent tubing to do the rest.

Gee:
You say: "I just dont have the patience when it come to making lines. I will have to make do I guess"

Well: I hate to break the bad news to you but working on these cars requires lots of "PAITENCE"

Good luck, let us know how you make out.
"super-bee_ski"
 
Speaking of flaring/making brake lines...I recently bought the RIDGID ratcheting 45* bevel flare tool.... Outstanding!! Pricey though.

Patience with work on old cars..ahhh yes............I actually call it trying manage all the swear words rolling out of the garage.
 
Speaking of flaring/making brake lines...I recently bought the RIDGID ratcheting 45* bevel flare tool.... Outstanding!! Pricey though.

Patience with work on old cars..ahhh yes............I actually call it trying manage all the swear words rolling out of the garage.

How much?
Do you like it so far?
 
Patience with work on old cars..ahhh yes............I actually call it trying manage all the swear words rolling out of the garage.[/QUOTE]


Propwash:
I gave up my therapist when he said he could not help me anymore...
He said I needed a University in Switzerland or "something like that"...
So now..I find working on my 70 Bee and the 63 Maxie clone for therapy...
I think its working so far...
 
How much?
Do you like it so far?

$160 bucks....I had an old $40 dollar kit that's pretty much a joke compared to it. The Rigid works great. Just used it on sprucing up the coronet on some 3/8" fuel line and 3/16" break line.


Propwash:
I gave up my therapist when he said he could not help me anymore...
He said I needed a University in Switzerland or "something like that"...
So now..I find working on my 70 Bee and the 63 Maxie clone for therapy...
I think its working so far...

LOL......Gotta stick with what works for ya ski. Hell, I need to be a therapist. Imagine getting paid for telling people what's wrong with them????
 
Ok, why can't I get premade front and rear to go from the block (circled) and run custom to MC from there, and and Elbow for the rear.
 

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if you run the prop valve at the master,both front and rear lines need to go to that.you wouldnt use the block at all.if you run the adjustable inline prop valve to the rear,you just need to loop the line at your block(to the rear)and install the new adjustable prop valve and short piece of line in the space created.easyest way i have found to do it.that way you can use all the factory lines with only a very minor modification and no cutting at all.:grin:
 
i just changed to wilwoods all round and made all my own stainless brake line, man that **** is hard to flare i ahve the sorest hands, i just used a manual double flare tool wish i had somethng easier.
 
Bend up a pattern out of clothes hanger and then duplicate it.
 
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