Advice for New 440 Heads.

[Frank2304]

I posted this in the engine and driveline section but not too much response so far. Hoping for more input here in the general forum... thanks!

Hello, I have a 1967 Coronet with a 400 and a 1972 Duster with a 440. My question is regarding big block 440's and since I am a member of both FABO and FBBO, I thought there may be more 440 enthusiasts on the BBody forum so here goes...

The 440 in my Duster is a 1975 from a New Yorker. The engine is basically stock with the following mods:
TTI Headers and 2 1/2" exhaust with an H crossover
Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake maniford
Edelbrock Performer Series #1412 800 CFM carb
MOPAR P4452783 cam. 268/284 duration, .450/.458 lift (basically a stock 440 Magnum purple cam).
Mopar orange box/electronic ignition/ pointless distributor. (Initial 20*, 36* all in at 2,200)
727 Torqueflight
8 3/4 Sure-Grip with 323 gears.

I mostly cruise, attend car shows and of course an occasional A to B on the avenue but not planning on the track (OK, maybe once to see what kind of numbers it will do). I run it on 90 octane ethanol free pump gas. The car runs great as is but I know there is more potential power that is fairly easy to gain from better heads.

My question is this, I am planning to upgrade from my open chamber 8.2 to 1 stock heads and install some closed chamber, better flowing heads. Do I go with some freshened up closed chamber 915 cast iron heads and maybe a port and polish... OR... do I go with a set of after-market aluminum heads likeEdelbrock RPM, Source, Indy, ProMaxx, etc.

Keeping in mind I want to increase power of course, but don't want to select heads with a level of built in performance that would be thrown away on this relatively mild 440 build and cam.

Thank you in advance...

 

[Frank Mopar]

Stealth heads from 440 source. Best bang for the buck.

I have them on my race car. Just bolt them on. I did go with studs instead of bolts

 

[Zeppelin264]

Stealth heads from 440 source. Best bang for the buck.

I have them on my race car. Just bolt them on. I did go with studs instead of bolts

I too am running the Stealths and they are great for the value. I do suggest replacing the valve springs they come with. I had 1 fail on me and I was well under their spec for lift.

 

[65-440]

Source stealth here as well

 

[hunt2elk]

The Stealth heads are the best bang for the buck. I have a pair on my 440 and another set on my 451. No problems with either of them. Only complaint I would have is that they are not made in the USA.

 

[cryplydog]

Just me but I'd go for the E-streets and I saw they were on sale somewhere. Seems almost everyone disassembles the scource heads and buys new springs, retainers, and keepers plus resize the guides and regrind the valves and seats. But, I guess you can just buy the castings bare? Good luck.

 

[bobtile]

Just me but I'd go for the E-streets and I saw they were on sale somewhere. Seems almost everyone disassembles the scource heads and buys new springs, retainers, and keepers plus resize the guides and regrind the valves and seats. But, I guess you can just buy the castings bare? Good luck.

I ran the stealth heads. Replaced all as stated above and still found a weak link.
One of the valves just snapped off.
I rebuilt the heads and now they have new manley valves as well.
They may be ok if you are just going to the track once in a while.

 

[Bruzilla]

My suggestion would be that based on your driving statements, use that money to improve some other aspect of the car and leave the heads alone. If you're not racing, and mainly cruising, you have more than enough power and bragging rights than you need. Why spend another grand or so giving your car more power that you won't be able to benefit from?

 

[Budnicks]

BB Mopars the biggest choke point to be able to make better power,
is in the cylinder heads design {like any performance engine cylinder heads are 1/2 the battle},
especially the Wedge heads
either of these examples below

if you want more compression go with the
a good useable power band to about 5500 Out of the box
Edelbrock E-Street in 75cc {or 84cc} Combustion chambers
2.14 & 1.81 stainless steel valves 291cfm @ 0.600" valve lift

75cc, 84cc, 88cc RPM's are a bit better a little more $$$
same size valves , same cfm flow rate, better performance oriented parts
a higher RPM range

have a decent professional port job done on either &
you'll be better off yet

IMO Eddy's are best bang for the buck, for a quality Made in the USA
product & support...
For this price range especially....

Stealths are OK, also cast in overseas {China},
with some inferior parts
{Don't get me wrong 440souce has some great products, when ordered correctly, but not the cheap stuff}
but out of the box RPM's or the E-Street Edelbrocks are both better,
better parts, better flow, 100% Made in the USA, better country of origin...

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive//mc/cylinder-heads/chrysler/

if you're doing for performance, a better flowing head
will make the best HP/TQ bang for the buck
by the time you rebuild a 50 y/o iron head install hard exhaust seats
so you can run unleaded, bigger & better quality stainless Steel
2.14 & 1.81 valves, locks, springs & retainers,
guides already cut down for up-to 0.600" gross valve lift,
if you do all that, you'd be ahead of the game, only a couple hundred more
BUT;
you'd still have a 50 y/o head, heavy cast iron, the added,
effect of the aluminum heads weight saving is a plus too...
That 50 y/o 915 or 906 casting or what ever casting {unless they're MW},
even mildly ported, most of the time doesn't/won't even flow
anywhere near as well, usually as the Edelbrocks, it will guarantee
to make less power, than an out of the box Edelbrock will...
Or an out of the Box stock Stealths too... {they do have MW heads also}

good luck, I hope that explanation helps some

 

[65-440]

Great explanation His budniks! I will say, I am pleased with my source heads so far. No issues at all, and I wind the **** out of this 383. My 340 dart has eddy RPM's, no problems there either ...