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advice on a hemi block

benno440

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i am going to start looking for a bare hemi block soon and would like some advice.

my plan is to spend some time building this engine while i have the 505 stroker already going in the charger and maybe in 5-10 yrs pu this hemi in.

i will be boosting the hemi either centrifugal or twin turbo.
stroked to a 528 or 572ci
probably run around 900-1000hp when boosted so strength would be a good thing.
fuel injected


the advice i am looking for is what block should i be looking for i would like to get a bare block for under 3-5k i.e (aluminium, factory cast iron, aftermarket cast iron?)
will not be a race motor just a monster street/strip motor
 
I would forget about a factory OEM block there more $ than a aftermarket block and not as strong. With your build I'd go aftermarket cast iron instead of Alum.
If you happen to be going to the Mopar nats next month I'll be take a new siamesed bore to sell.

Brian
 
I would forget about a factory OEM block there more $ than a aftermarket block and not as strong. With your build I'd go aftermarket cast iron instead of Alum.
If you happen to be going to the Mopar nats next month I'll be take a new siamesed bore to sell.

Brian

i would love to go, but i think its a 20 something hour flight.
who makes those blocks? do you have a link where to get them?
how much do they go for? bare block stock cylinder size

- - - Updated - - -

who makes a good stroker kit for the hemi's
 
http://www.forhemisonly.com/worldcastironblock.html

Try Tim Banning at: For Hemis Only (FHO)

He sells the "World" blocks...

I know how far it is to Australia, been there 3X with the U.S Air Force.
I did NOT want to come home!
Plus; you "guys" have your "stuff" together!
Big Time!!! and I mean BIG TIME Motor-heads!
I went to Perth once and Melbourne 2X
Went to that "park" in Melbourne on a Sunday and saw all the neat cars.

Anyway, try contacting Tim at: for Hemis Only.
The above URL I sent you.

By the way, "Bishop" from Ohio knows what he is talking about...
So, he suggests the "Cast Iron" block but ask Tim at "FHO", tell him want you want to do OR by the block from Bishop...

Good luck, keep us posted!
PS: I fell in love w/ V.B but I heard you guys ship it to us "lightweights" here in the "States" LOL

"super-bee_ski"
 
thanks SBS, i will check him out

yeh i guess we are big time motor heads, gotta love it.

VB i didnt know they sent it over, i used to drink it when i was young, but i cant stand it anymore, IMO you can have it all haha
 
I bought a new MoPar block to trade for an original (cost worked out well for me) and there is no comparison. The new block is a crap load heavier than the original, has provision for external oil pick up, beefed up in many areas and thicker walls I believe. Cross bolt caps from #1 - #4 (not just center three) and I think it used 1/2" head bolts. This is where you want to start. As far as the crank and rods go K1 has an excellent reputation from what I have read.
 
thanks meep, yeh I have a K1 crank in the 505 at the moment.
 
I'm building exactly what you're looking to do.....

I have an aluminum world products block,
CNC ported MP Edelbrock cast heads,
Twin 76mm Precision turbos,
Indy MOD-MAN intake modified for 16 injectors and a custom aluminum upper plenum with twin throttle bodies...

I was going to build a 572ci but with the 76mm turbos, it'll result in too much backpressure on the turbos so I'm dropping down to 528ci. It should still make near 2000hp at the crank.
 
What is pricing on the:
1. World Cast Iron ?
2. World Aluminum ?

- - - Updated - - -

PS:
Yeah, WE heard that the V.B was for export...Ha Ha..

Anyway, It's what i first bought when i was in Perth and Melbourne...Victoria Bitters...
 
i am seeing most of the bare blocks are around 2.5k-3.3k
but you can get them in different finish bore sizes.

it would be best to go with stock size and get them bored to match my pistons i would think.

Hemirunner where did you get your block, is aluminium blocks okay for street cars that will spend more time cruising then 1/4 mile runs?
also what brand or what components or where from are you getting the stroker kit?

2000hp sounds perfect under boost, that should drop you to near 600-700 off throttle hey?
what are you keeping the compression down to? 8 something? how are you doing that? with a piston/ head / gasket and deck height combo or ??

SBS p.s you can have all the VB you want, i can even send some over to you if you want haha.
 
I bought my block new in box but second hand off a guy in texas for $3500. Aluminum blocks are fine for street use, but the builder needs to know what he's doing and the owner needs to be up on the ins-and-outs of using one such as block growth, how it affects clearances and valve lash. We have very severe temp swings here in the states and depending upon conditions, you could range from loose valve lash in the summer to holding a valve open in cold weather.

I will be running a callies crank, oliver rods and diamond custom pistons at 9.5:1 CR. My 12:1CR pump gas iron block 572 hemi made 735hp on the dyno. The 526 indy head one should come in at near 800hp and this TT 528 hemi should make 600 without the turbos due to the smaller cam and lower CR.
 
I bought my block new in box but second hand off a guy in texas for $3500. Aluminum blocks are fine for street use, but the builder needs to know what he's doing and the owner needs to be up on the ins-and-outs of using one such as block growth, how it affects clearances and valve lash. We have very severe temp swings here in the states and depending upon conditions, you could range from loose valve lash in the summer to holding a valve open in cold weather.

I will be running a callies crank, oliver rods and diamond custom pistons at 9.5:1 CR. My 12:1CR pump gas iron block 572 hemi made 735hp on the dyno. The 526 indy head one should come in at near 800hp and this TT 528 hemi should make 600 without the turbos due to the smaller cam and lower CR.

i might stick with an iron block, as there is not alot of RB hemi's here.
isnt 9.5 a tad high for boost? i dont know i thought around 8.5 was optimal.

what factors contribute to picking turbos?

thanks ffor the info.
 
i might stick with an iron block, as there is not alot of RB hemi's here.
isnt 9.5 a tad high for boost? i dont know i thought around 8.5 was optimal.

what factors contribute to picking turbos?

thanks ffor the info.
It depends upon the entire combination. Look at some of the dynamic compression ratio calculators that include boost. 8.5:1 is pretty low for turbos, that's more like optimal for an overdriven roots style supercharger. Picking turbos will depend again on the entire combination. Twin 76's are pretty small, especially for a big cubic inch hemi, but that also depends upon your goals. For a street cruiser, twin 76's would be fine up to 572ci. For making all out power, twin 88 or 91's would be much more appropriate.
 
Here is one for you Super bee ski
1001361_556172531085339_1128711939_n.jpg
 
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