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Advice on new Brake lines on my 68 with Willwod front discs?

Malicious

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Hi All,

I got my 68 Coronet with a Willwood disc brake conversion already installed. From what I can tell it was a 318 Boosted Drum/Drum car, but came with a Bendix Booster, no Master cylinder and cut brake lines.

I've bought a A1Cardone 70 Disc/Drum MC and a Willwood proportioning valve, and want to replace the hard brake lines. But because freight to Australia is f*& expensive, I just want to confirm the lines I should order. I forget which side the MC exits, but I will check tonight.

Do I order the brake lines for a Disc / Drum car or Drum / Drum?

Should I order the the front brake lines with provision for metering valve? Will the ends line up enough for the Willwood Prop Valve?

Also assuming I need the one with provision for the meter, should I order the under frame or 'hemi'(RKT6802) kit? Whats the difference??

I appreciate any help you can offer!

Cheers
 
not going to make them yourself?
it will be your cheapest way, buy 2 25ft rolls of stainless or steel 3/16" brake line (summit brand) and a 3/16" an brake flare kit, 1 x brake bender 1 x brake flare tool.

i cannot help with which one you need to buy if buying a done kit, but inlinetube.com might be able to help.

* i dont think they will line up with the wilwood one as they look completly different.
* if front disc and rear drum you will need to order disc/drum, a pressure residual valve will need to be put in.

anymore advice let me know as i just completed my own full made brake lines for the charger
 
The brake lines should be the same disc or drums. Like benno440 said the factory lines will not line up on the Willwood Prop Valve. That's the main reason I went with a 73-76 a-body prop valve. I didn't want to make the lines. I didn't use a residual valve on my 66 belvedere when I converted to disc brakes and they work great. I think it depends on which rear wheel cyl you use.

The brass 73-76 a body disc brake prop valve is a bolt in on your 69.
 
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