Alignment

[howiedodat]

Hello!!

Just getting ready to do a total bushing, tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, ball joints, tubular upper control arm replacement on my 1968 Satellite. Does anyone have alignment numbers (caster, camber) for the real world? The control arm people tell me I should be able to run a lower ride height with the tubular control arms because of the additional adjustability.

What is the consensus on Torsion bars? I have the S6 bars in mine. Supposed to have better weight transfer. I am considering switching to 383 bars. Any and all thoughts are much appreciated!!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!

:HappyNewYear:

 

[Deleted member 214]

From what I hear, yes a light /6 bar will let weight transfer when launching at the track, but it will hurt cornering. Is this a drag car, street car, or a combination?

 

[Aaron]

I helped my friend rebuild the suspension on his 69 GTX with the MagnumForce upper arms. We used the following specs:
Caster: should be 2-1/2 degrees to 3-1/2 postive with the tubular upper arms. Both sides MUST BE the same +or- 1/4 degree.
Camber -.5 degrees, toe-in 1/32 to zero.

I would only lower it (less than an inch) with the upgraded T-Bars. Otherwise the car will bottom out on bumps. If you do upgrade the bars and lower it a little you can shave about 1/2 inch off the tops of the bump stops on the lower control arms so you are not always riding on them. Oh, and don't go to a chain store for the alignment. Find the shop with the oldest guy doing the front end work and have him do it.

 

[howiedodat]

The car is mostly a street driven cruiser. Hardly raced. I most likely need an all around set up. I have been looking about and the consensus seems to be a heavier bar sholud be used for street use. I am looking at a set of .96's Mopar Performance bars. The shop I used 2 years ago comes recomended by a few local classic car owners. They did a decent job on the set up. The bushings are worn and the pass side has a "funny" wear pattern. The ride hieght in the avatar is were I would like to get back to. After my last alingment, the shop had to raise it up about 2 inches over what you see in the avatar. Thanks for the thoughts !!

 

[696pack]

The car is mostly a street driven cruiser. Hardly raced. I most likely need an all around set up. I have been looking about and the consensus seems to be a heavier bar sholud be used for street use. I am looking at a set of .96's Mopar Performance bars. The shop I used 2 years ago comes recomended by a few local classic car owners. They did a decent job on the set up. The bushings are worn and the pass side has a "funny" wear pattern. The ride hieght in the avatar is were I would like to get back to. After my last alingment, the shop had to raise it up about 2 inches over what you see in the avatar. Thanks for the thoughts !!

Put the Hemi suspension bars and rear springs on the car.



FROM ANOTHER THREAD HERE:

"There are also lo-buck options. A simple handling tuned alignment can produce amazing results. I dont know what all is adjustable in your car, but this is what I have done. Decrease caster, the less caster the less the car "wants" to go straight, think of shopping cart wheels, helps in cornering. Increase positive camber a degree or two. This is the tilt of the wheel in relation to the ground. You want the bottom of the wheel a tad out from the top of the wheel, 1-2deg to start. Toe, 1-2deg toe out. Now this is a real handling recipe, and will probably cause some extra wear, but you said cone killer! Try an autocross or solocross website for more tips. Good luck