Alternator Gauge Normal position

[relam]

Regarding my 66 charger, is there a standard of where my Alt guage should be reading. Currently it is just to the left of center, where the white hash is, while running. When I tun on lights and blinkers it goes into a fluctuation of about a 1/4 back and forth, still staying to the left of the center hash but moves as the blinkers operate. My battery is good, alternator test was a pass at Auto zone and i put in a new Volt Regulator. Is that a normal base line for this model ?

 

[OSDart]

Probably pretty accurate. Unless you're wanting to keep it original, I'd bypass the amp gauge and install a voltage gauge. Original Mopar ampmeter's have a history of melt downs. Be safe!

 

[relam]

Probably pretty accurate. Unless you're wanting to keep it original, I'd bypass the amp gauge and install a voltage gauge. Original Mopar ampmeter's have a history of melt downs. Be safe![/QUOTE

Thanks !

 

[Don Frelier]

Agree, what you describe sounds correct if it's the old single wire alternator they don't charge much at idle and a charger has a bunch of bulbs. Mine still runs through the ammeter, works fine. I did modify it to use a more modern two wire alternator with solid state regulator.
I would suggest checking the condition of your bulkhead connector and wiring in and out.

 

[relam]

Agree, what you describe sounds correct if it's the old single wire alternator they don't charge much at idle and a charger has a bunch of bulbs. Mine still runs through the ammeter, works fine. I did modify it to use a more modern two wire alternator with solid state regulator.
I would suggest checking the condition of your bulkhead connector and wiring in and out.

What kind of Alternator did you use?
What is starting all this is my non op of the roll away doors on head light. Lights and motors work but from switch in dash no go. I am down to checking grounds on relays at the motors. I have cleaned and checked all the relays behind dash and they seem to be ok. Any suggestion would be welcomed ;

 

[Don Frelier]

The headlight motors should work even with the car off. (just slower)
There is a 30Amp breaker behind the drivers side kick panel (between the door and the dash).
Check that and the limit switches.

Any alternator from the late 70's through the 80's from a car with a small block etc.. will work, but you need to run another wire from the solid state voltage regulator. I think they are 63 Amp or something like that.

 

[relam]

The headlight motors should work even with the car off. (just slower)
There is a 30Amp breaker behind the drivers side kick panel (between the door and the dash).
Check that and the limit switches.

Any alternator from the late 70's through the 80's from a car with a small block etc.. will work, but you need to run another wire from the solid state voltage regulator. I think they are 63 Amp or something like that.

Sounds good Don
Thank you

 

[Maxrat]

Amp Gauge --- open up the bulkhead connectors and check the condition of the spade lugs -- especially the connections where your alternator output wire goes through to the amp gauge and comes back out. This was a poor design (weak connection) causing heat, high resistance, and sometimes fire. I drilled through those connections and routed wire straight through to the amp gauge. Did the same coming back out from the amp gauge to the starter relay.

 

[Maxrat]

As far as the headlights not rotating -- also make sure the toggle switch is good and in the right position. Two motors, four micro switches, three relays, 30 amp breaker, toggle switch. And, the wiring harness connector near the battery.

 

[69a100]

Did you use those little black boxes or did you upgrade to the newer style? I can stand those little things, upgrade to newer style and don't look back. Here's some help. Good Luck http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

 

[Maxrat]

Try reading through this -- basic but good article: http://p15-d24.com/blogs/entry/18-give-your-electrical-system-a-quick-check-up-watch-your-ammeter/

 

[relam]

Did you use those little black boxes or did you upgrade to the newer style? I can stand those little things, upgrade to newer style and don't look back. Here's some help. Good Luck http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

Bought the solid state replacement from Classic Industries didn't see much of a diff on the gauge , so trial by error i guess, I will check out the link, Thank you

 

[Speedbird]

What kind of Alternator did you use?
What is starting all this is my non op of the roll away doors on head light. Lights and motors work but from switch in dash no go. I am down to checking grounds on relays at the motors. I have cleaned and checked all the relays behind dash and they seem to be ok. Any suggestion would be welcomed ;

http://www.chargersourceguide.com/
"Body">"Headlights"

On your voltage regulator issues.
The charging systems were notorious for not putting out enough juice at idle.
And the voltage regulator needs a good ground for reference.
If it doesn't have a good ground , it doesn't know how to regulate.
I use the word "regulate" loosely on these things.