amateur needs paint help

[dan juhasz]

I’m working on restoring the under hood and front clip on my car. Everything went to bare metal. I used Kirker Enduro Epoxy DTM prime with their activator to cover the steel. Moved on to small amount on plastic work. Then used Kirker Perfect Prime with their activator again. So far so good . I went apply a second coat of primer today and the cowl started to wrinkle as it was setting up, looks like the substrate below started to shrink and wrinkled the coat.
Only comments is the Epoxy DTM primer never seemed to get 100 rock hard. They say on the label it takes up to 3 days to fully cure.
So what did I do wrong and what do I have to do to remedy?

 

[j-c-c-62]

Explain better your time frames here.

 

[dan juhasz]

Explain better your time frames here.

When it came to the DTM epoxy I always left it alone for a 3 day minimum. With the sandable Perfect Prime at least 24 hours.

 

[WileE]

I've never used kirker. What time-frame window does the brand tell you ? that's where your answer is. They will tell you when you can add another coat.

 

[jimbosride]

Use any Reducer? Or just their activator?

 

[dan juhasz]

Use any Reducer? Or just their activator?

yes I did use some reducer also. Garage temps are around 65 and I use a fuji mini mite 4 turbine system. It's fine with 1:1 or 2:1 but a 4:1 2k primer does not atomize well unless reduced

 

[Bighouse]

you have to strip it back down.

 

[dan juhasz]

I just sent the Kirker rep a bunch of photos let’s see what he thinks happened. Everything else looks fine no negative reactions and flowed out beautiful

 

[AR67GTX]

I think if it was the epoxy coat, you would have seen this on the first coat of Perfect Prime. So the first coat of perfect Prime must not have cured completely, the amount of hardener was off or temps got too cool in the garage. A temperature of 60 degrees minimum is usually OK but curing does slow down. But yes, I think you will have to take the area back down to at least the Epoxy and possibly all the way to metal.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

All that crazing on the first pic makes me think also something wasn’t prepped right. You remove all the old paint or wipe it down with prep sol or wax and grease remover before primming?

 

[zyzzyx]

I've never used Kirker before, but those wrinkles tell me that the prior coats of primer didn't
dry all the way, and the reducer was still trying to leave the previous coat. I personally use
a DTM just like you did and then wait three days depending on the temperature and then use
Evercoat G2 or Slick Sand. Its a high build polyester primer that is great for blocking! If the
temperature is too cold, the material can't off-gas quickly enough. I cringed when I saw the
first pic!

 

[dan juhasz]

All that crazing on the first pic makes me think also something wasn’t prepped right. You remove all the old paint or wipe it down with prep sol or wax and grease remover before primming?

Always prep solve the entire area twice before I start spraying. I don’t know what caused it.
I was wondering if there was residual solvent that I use to clean the gun after each use. That area that reacted was sprayed first. I just wonder if I sand it smooth again if I can hit it with a sealer and be good?

 

[BigFlo]

That is a bummer - it just sucks when you’re getting to that stage and this happens. I feel for you! I think it’s very unlikely you will be able to sand it smooth and try to re-coat. I’m in the camp of probably going to have to bring it back to bare metal.
You might be onto something with the gun cleaning having some residue left inside.

 

[1967coronet]

Sorry, but all that needs to go back to bare steel. Could be several reasons why that area wrinkled/lifted. Just go back and follow product directions on temp and mix.
Wrong reducer lol i reduced a cup one time with 330 ppg grease and wax remover **** happens, Perhaps you didn't get a good mix on the epoxy and or it was still wet. That's just a guess. Many times I've seen that reaction it's on plastic , bumper covers , mirrors ect.
Contamination most times will fish eye bad. I've never used Kirker ethire but many guys do. I'm sure it's a decent product if you follow their instructions and do not start mixing product brands.
After many years I still would have WTF moments.

 

[AR67GTX]

I can only guess, but I’m guessing the epoxy is OK when he gets down to it. If the epoxy reacted it would have happened with the first coat of Perfect Prime he applied unless it was just a dust coat. I don’t think it would have waited until the second coat the next day.

 

[ct71rr]

I’m using SPI epoxy. The temperature of the metal and air has to be a minimum of 65 degrees and remain that way for at least 24 hours for proper curing. I would imagine your epoxy has the same requirement.

 

[RemCharger]

What is the fuji mini mite system? Is it propane heat?

 

[dan juhasz]

What is the fuji mini mite system? Is it propane heat?

no the operation of the 4 turbines generate heated air

 

[Krooser]

I have been using Kirker since 2005. I'm not a professional but I have done several jobs with their single stage and I have been happy with the results.

My pro painter friend won't use anything but PPG. But he has admitted my Peterbilt looked pretty good after I painted the hood...he said "YOU painted this?"...

 

[Bighouse]

Body guys are like cooks. Each one is the best and uses the best and does it the best way…..