ammeter conversion read description

[moparjohnny]

on ebay read description and tell me if this conversion can work the way he says it can,just plugging the red wire as he stated into power source.should there be more than that to it?just asking i do not know.thanks ORIGINAL CHARGING GAUGE MODIFIED TO VOLTS 68-69 ROADRUNNER/GTX/SATELLITE

 

[khryslerkid]

They say to bolt the two original wires (together) to the one terminal on the new guage and the red wire on the new guage to + keyed.

 

[threewood]

Oh my f#$%! Well, you could pay that for a converted gauge. But you can do it yourself for about $15.00 with a Sunpro CP8215 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJU8I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And it looks like that listing was done with a similar gauge. The old ammeter is held to the face with 2 small rivets which are drilled out. The Sunpro gauge is held to its' face with 2 small screws. The only mods you need to do to the original gauge face are widen the lower opening where the needle goes, drill 2 small holes so the new gauge can screw to the face, and superglue the old needle to the new needle.

As for hookup, the ammeter works by having the currect pass through the gauge, power in and power out. An volt meter works passively so only needs to be hooked to 12v plus a ground.

READ THIS!!! Propwash does an excellent write-up for the conversion.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/volt-gauge-conversion.28529/

 

[threewood]

They say to bolt the two original wires (together) to the one terminal on the new guage and the red wire on the new guage to + keyed.

The issue I see with that method is that it ignores the possible issue in the first place. The guts of the ammeter are very robust and will not fail. The failure occurs in the isolator gasket between the gauge studs and dash housing and with oxidation between wires and studs. Bolting both wires onto one stud does not take those out of the equation. Bolting the wires together off of the ammeter is the correct way to bypass in my opinion.
If the insulator strip is in good shape with clean connections than there will be no issue with the original gauge. Where is Nacho?

 

[khryslerkid]

The issue I see with that method is that it ignores the possible issue in the first place. The guts of the ammeter are very robust and will not fail. The failure occurs in the isolator gasket between the gauge studs and dash housing and with oxidation between wires and studs. Bolting both wires onto one stud does not take those out of the equation. Bolting the wires together off of the ammeter is the correct way to bypass in my opinion.
If the insulator strip is in good shape with clean connections than there will be no issue with the original gauge. Where is Nacho?

And it doesn't get the actual charging circuit out of the interrior if your running extras and a heavier amp altinator.

 

[Demonic]

Right ^^. The firewall connections are a problem spot also. The 12v hot supply through the fusible link, and the alt output wire. The factory used dielectric grease on the back to seal out weather, most dried out long ago. Inspect these carefully, I use a magnifying glass.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Couple of options: 1. Do it yourself by picking up the latest and greatest Mopar Action magazine, Febuary 2018, turn to page 52. 2. Send it to Insturment Specialties

 

[Nacho-RT74]

As far I can see, that gauge is made to feed one to the ign key source and the other to ground. No stud left alone to attach both amm wires together. Would need a screw with nut to attach both amm wires together between them, tape and keep them floating around.

unless I'm missing something

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The issue I see with that method is that it ignores the possible issue in the first place. The guts of the ammeter are very robust and will not fail. The failure occurs in the isolator gasket between the gauge studs and dash housing and with oxidation between wires and studs. Bolting both wires onto one stud does not take those out of the equation. Bolting the wires together off of the ammeter is the correct way to bypass in my opinion.
If the insulator strip is in good shape with clean connections than there will be no issue with the original gauge. Where is Nacho?

Need to save the heat on ammeter to keep the insulations safe from crack and stud itself from rust and loosen from the internal shunt. And to make this need a powerfull alt ( believe or not ) to keep OUT the load coming and going from/to batt throught the ammeter, allong with clean and tight contacts.

If you use one of the studs on ammeter to make the ammeter bypass AND isolation is already cracked, contacts are still dirty or rusty, or terminals got loosen, still can get a short due the heat, just that will take a while to heat the stud inside the ammeter since power is not going throught anymore. The heat will began between wire eyelet terminals first.

and as mentioned... good paths through the firewall will be a must too... search and read around

 

[rrTor-Red]

Again, Mopar Action, February 2018 edition, page 52 AND look at this too:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

Nacho: When you say "powerful alt will save that", how powerful is powerful?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

enough to feed all the car requirements AT IDDLE. Meaning:

Headlights
parking/cluster lights
Radio
A/C-Heater Blower ( if max speed, better )
Wipers ( If max speed, better )
Rear deffog if equipped ( it could be low speed ).
Ign system

this could mean around 55 amps... AT IDDLE. However, the more the better.

ocassional devices like turning lights, Powered windows, cigar lighter are not important since they work for an instant. But constant suckers must be good feeded.