Ammeter reading

[RobP]

I was wondering if this is a normal reading for the ammeter at speed without any accessories running? I recently had my guages calibrated so I assume it's accurate (it's perfectly centered when not running). If I turn on my A/C or aftermarket stereo it moves a little more to the right, but I don't run both at the same time since I think I have just a 46amp roundback alternator. Thoughts?

 

[eldubb440]

perfect, IMO

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Yep, no problem at all with that

 

[440+6]

Just like mine, all is good.

 

[RobP]

Thanks everyone!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

He he he heyyyy, wait a minute!

Depending of batt charge conditions, can or not be perfect.

Actually the perfect reading is a centered needle. The next perfect reading is show the actual status, which even could be right, also could be not good/healty for the system, depending of the time and intensity the loads runs throught the system

Do you have anything hooked to batt?

See what a mean when I fight constantly about the amm useage and readings understand?

Then why begins to burn everything allong the years and you say, THE AMMETER IS THE CULPRIT!! REMOVE IT!

No! The guilty is the user when doesn't understand the reading

Note... when you turn on any acc, with engine off, the reading MUST BE to the LEFT! Not to the right... and actually also with engine running with a stock alt and iddling with AC

Then when you give gas you should get needle to right, meaning alt is able to recharge what batt lost previously feeding the accesories when iddling, thanks to the extra RPMs.

THAT WAS what factory made wrong back in the years. Thats a signal of a poor alternator used from factory.

You want to save heat from constants loads running through the system ? Upgrade the alt!

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

 

[RobP]

Nacho - I do have my amplifier connected directly to the battery, but I'm planning to move it to the alternator per your previous advice.
With the engine off the ammeter does read to the left with a/c or the stereo on, but it's on the positive side at idle or at speed with either one running. I wonder if I don't have the stock alternator? It's a single field round back and I thought they topped out at 46 amps?

 

[RobP]

OK, now I'm confused.
I'm working on adding parallel wiring to my ammeter and when I pulled the wires off the back of the ammeter, the red wire is on the + side of the ammeter and the black wire is on the - side. At the bulkhead connector, the red wire goes to the fusible link on the other side and the black wire goes to the alternator. Shouldn't the wires at the ammeter be reversed (alternator connection on + side and battery on - side?)
Since my ammeter moves slightly negative with the engine off and the door open, it seems to be working correctly(?)
Thoughts?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok let's see... if your ammeter reads to charge side ( positive ) it can be getting what batt lost while cranking ( which sure is A LOT ). Riding around should be getting needle centered slowly untill get it right on center. This can take from 5 minutes or 20 minutes or more depending of the batt capacity, the alt capacity or the cranking requirements meaning it suck a lot ( or not ). Then some flickering according with the charge moment but just if batt got some discharge at certain point.

For example, if you press brakes will notice a slight discharge flickering and will come back IF alt is able to respond to the brake lights load fast. If not, will keep on discharge side. Same about blinkers, althought blinkers are fast so maybe will notice the needle bouncing at flasher rithym ( and all the time these lights are flashing on ) and maybe batt will get recovered AFTER the blinking ends. Alt normally is not that fast to get the reading back to the blinkers, like if you keep brakes pressed where you should be able to see the needle going down and getting back by itself in less than half of second IF alt is able.

At the end, this means, a needle turning to right it means the batt is getting charged just because got load lost previouslly. Imposible to save while cranking, but we have to work on get saved from that while riding

45 amps alt is usually insufficient on a heavy equipped car with everything working, because that max output is just reached at 2500 or so RPMs. Usually an AC car will require around 35 amps IDDLING at daylight, but at night with lights on I have estimated not less than 45 amps. If rains, the wipers will suck a lot too. Thats why I ALLWAYS estimate get an alt able to feed at iddle NO LESS than 45 amps.

IMHO this was never really good considered on factory. Dunno if the technology on those days wasn't good to get better alts, or they never considered really what the loads going in and out really affected to the charging wiring system

 

[Nacho-RT74]

OK, now I'm confused.
I'm working on adding parallel wiring to my ammeter and when I pulled the wires off the back of the ammeter, the red wire is on the + side of the ammeter and the black wire is on the - side. At the bulkhead connector, the red wire goes to the fusible link on the other side and the black wire goes to the alternator. Shouldn't the wires at the ammeter be reversed (alternator connection on + side and battery on - side?)
Since my ammeter moves slightly negative with the engine off and the door open, it seems to be working correctly(?)
Thoughts?

No, it is correct. The + mark on ammeter goes to batt wich is red wire. Is just a guide to relate + mark with red wire, doesn't mean it is really a + or - indicator ( polarity or ammeter reading )

 

[RobP]

No, it is correct. The + mark on ammeter goes to batt wich is red wire. Is just a guide to relate + mark with red wire, doesn't mean it is really a + or - indicator ( polarity or ammeter reading )

Thanks so much Nacho, but I should clarify. The red wire is connected to the passenger side of the ammeter (which goes to the battery), the black wire is connected to the drivers side (which goes to the alternator). Based on your diagrams, this seems reversed (?)

 

[RobP]

Thanks so much Nacho, but I should clarify. The red wire is connected to the passenger side of the ammeter (which goes to the battery), the black wire is connected to the drivers side (which goes to the alternator). Based on your diagrams, this seems reversed (?)

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Diagrams is just referential and drawed like that just to not cross lines one over the other... I never thought really if the + side of the ammeter is at left or right. Just get the red to the + lead.

Sorry my bad! Never thought thar could cause confussion

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Actually if you check the gauge from the back, the diagram is correct with red wire on left LOL

 

[RobP]

Thanks Nacho. I completed the parallel wiring today and feel much better now that it's done.