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Another question regarding disc brake conversion...

64SF

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Seems like a lot of activity regarding conversions recently....I've purchased a kit which I believe is made up of Right Stuff components...

My conversion (64 SF) is to manual disc/drum my question regards the proportioning valve.

Currently I have the stock "union" block that provides pressure equally to the front and rear. I know for the conversion to operate correctly less pressure needs to be to the rear through either a stock type proportioning valve used for disc/drum OR an adjustable value plumbed into the rear brake line. Adjustable ones can be purchased for about have the cost of a stock type...I read mixed reviews on both

As always I would appreciate any and all thoughts, opinions or comments. Thanks
 
I plumbed in the proportioning valve on my roadrunner. It's cheaper like you said and pretty straight forward. Also you don't have to get all new lines if your kit didn't come with them. It has worked fine for me for 15 plus year. Side note, crank it down for effortless brake stands too!! Lol
 
I plumbed in the proportioning valve on my roadrunner. It's cheaper like you said and pretty straight forward. Also you don't have to get all new lines if your kit didn't come with them. It has worked fine for me for 15 plus year. Side note, crank it down for effortless brake stands too!! Lol

Thank you for the quick response!
 
I used the SSBC conversion on my 65. It has an adjustable proportioning valve installed to the rear brakes.
 
I too used the SSBC on my 65. I used its master cylinder, but not the brake valve. Why? Because the more fittings you have the more likely you can have a leak, also unsightly. You will have to bend new brake lines, no matter how you install the valve. I pray that your motor is not installed, just makes the passenger side line easier to make and install. Do not forget the wire wrap where the lines can be seen(Summit)
Summit Racing® Armor Line Guards. It helps make a better looking package and protects the new brake lines. Avoid using SS for the lines due to being harder to work with and leaks. Also buy a tubing bender for the 3/16 line, it works like a charm. Wilwood valve.
edit: beware that Mopar used its own brake size fitting on master cylinder- included with the SSBC kit-if you removed it from the line.
2014-07-25-2 3-16th tubing bender.JPG 2014-08-15-1.JPG 2014-08-07-2 Coronet master and lines.JPG 2014-08-19-3.JPG 2014-08-07-3 Dons master and lines.JPG
 
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I too used the SSBC on my 65. I used its master cylinder, but not the brake valve. Why? Because the more fittings you have the more likely you can have a leak, also unsightly. You will have to bend new brake lines, no matter how you install the valve. I pray that your motor is not installed, just makes the passenger side line easier to make and install. Do not forget the wire wrap where the lines can be seen(Summit)
Summit Racing® Armor Line Guards. It helps make a better looking package and protects the new brake lines. Avoid using SS for the lines due to being harder to work with and leaks. Also buy a tubing bender for the 3/16 line, it works like a charm. Wilwood valve.
edit: beware that Mopar used its own brake size fitting on master cylinder- included with the SSBC kit-if you removed it from the line.
View attachment 412830 View attachment 412831 View attachment 412832 View attachment 412833 View attachment 412836

Thanks for the reply and suggestions. The engine is not installed yet ....thank goodness.
 
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