Anyone make a mechanical fuel pump heat shield? WTB

[MykeNytemare]

Hey all,

So I am dealing with a vapor lock/fuel boiling issue when trying to restart my car after being driven. Unfortunately I have an edelbrock thunder carb so no air circulates around it like a holley style carb. I am wrapping the hard fuel line with DEI reflective wrap, and will add a carb spacer. I want to avoid the time and money to do an electric pump and return line as I don't have lots of cash at the moment.

I have seen some people fabricate a heat shield for the fuel pump and would love to get my hands on one for my 383. Anyone sell one? Any fabricators out there want to make me one and sell it to me?

 

[snakeoil24]

You really have 1 choice that works. A return line.

 

[mentor70]

when i had that problem, it was not anything in the engine compartment causing the issue.

believe it or not, the problem with my car was the rubber fuel line between the gas tank sender, and the metal line in the back of the car. if you havnt been under there in a while, check it out. it can and is probably sucking in some air, but NOT leaking fuel!

 

[mopar 3 B]

The fuel pump on your 383 sits in a position which is about the coolest spot in the entire engine compartment, hot air rises can not see any advantage to a heat shield would only restrict air flow and trap hot air around the pump. Moving fuel lines away from high heat sources, a vapor return line and non-alc fuel should diminish the problem. Also if you are running to much initial timing the 383 can be a bear to get started when hot and may not be vapor problem at all.

 

[D575]

I just took my car out for a cruise, when I got back I checked temps. the fuel pump was 110*
the fuel line to the carbs was 125* I have 1/4" phenolic spacers under all my carbs . the manifold has the heat riser blocked off. the manifold was 155* the carb bases were about 10* cooler.
I have a 195* thermostat. Just throwing it out there.
By the way , it's a nice warm Calif. day.

 

[MykeNytemare]

Mentor, wasn't planning to drop the tank anytime soon, but if the timing and carb you Ning don't fix my issue that will be my next step.

 

[mentor70]

you should not need to drop the tank, but im going from memory, i picked up a 68 GTX a few years back, and that was the first thing i did to the car was to replace that short piece of rubber line. it was quite accessible from under the car.

i have 2 tanks in the back yard for my 65 post, i should go ck one out right now.

the full symptoms my Cuda was having was that it would start and run fine, drive for half hour, stop at a cruse night then car would not start, or crank for ever to start, then run like *** for a few minutes, so embarrassing.

 

[mentor70]

another option i do for extra heat dissipation is using a thermal bearier coating, got my M1 back from Nitro Plate recently.

 

[Dennis H]

another option i do for extra heat dissipation is using a thermal bearier coating, got my M1 back from Nitro Plate recently.

Let us know how that works. Electric fuel pump is not the answer.

 

[mentor70]

i did my six pack manny like 15 yrs ago, worked really well.