anyone powdercoating at home?

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

I have been powdercoating small parts with good results. Looking to buy some High Temp powder to do a pair of exhuast manifolds and was wondering if anyone has a good source or used a product and how well it is holding up. Also came across a "wrinkle finish" powder and was looking for any input for that product as well. Thanks and here's the link to the wrinkle finish stuff, on sale for good price.

http://powder365.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_45&products_id=598

 

[MoparMitch]

Hey Ken,
I've got some hi-temp grey powdercoat material I bought from Eastwood to do mine with. Just hav'nt got that far yet. I do have a converted home oven that I've been using for other small parts though. I probably have enough of that grey that you can use some of it.

 

[snakeyes]

powder coating

check for the temp. that they hold up to, I talked to a fellow that does powder coating he mentioned ceramic coating them,

 

[Ron 73]

I wouldn't mind knowing some of the procedure of how you do it, Is there a page that i could read up a little on home powder coating parts?

 

[snakeyes]

powder coating

try going to ford muscle I believe that they had done a write up on powder coating at home, a friend at work was talking about it.

 

[dfarmercse]

I do parts up to 18 inches, the size of my oven. Haven't tried headers, have done intakes with high temp powder.

Dave F

 

[CudaChick1968]

Hey, I don't get onto this board that often (been FABO's semi official powder coater for years though) ... hit me up if I can help you guys out! I'm a Mopar and custom one-off specialist by trade. Here's my "qualifications" ...

http://PhoenixSpecialtyCoatings.com

Though it's not really well known, I also offer a 10% discount across the board to all FBBO members.

And 68Sport, instead of dealing with Powder365 try Prismatic Powders. You'll be amazed at the choices, quality and prices. I've used their products for many years and have never had a reason to go anywhere else.

Good luck with the home powdering guys! I'm serious, call me if you run into a bind with something. I can't teach you how to get perfect results every time over the phone but can probably help with advice along the way.

 

[detmatt1]

I've thought about setting myself up for small to medium sized part powder coating but there are several outfits that do it around the Detroit area so I don't know if it would be worth sacrificing my current shop space which is somewhat limited as it is. I really need a bigger building!

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

I work with a household range I got free from Craigslist, it is an older unit that has a small upper oven that is great for small parts. If you have a blast cabinet already the auctual powdercoat process doesn't require a whole lot of room. I hang some plastic sheeting in a corner of the shop, with the old racks out of the oven used to suspend the parts, and go at it. When I'm done the only shop space taken up is from the 30" range. I got the Sears powdercoat kit off E-Bay for $40 and it is decent for the amount of work I do.

 

[detmatt1]

Good to know, for that kind of money I would do it.

 

[Ron 73]

Ive been doing some studying on this and seems the more i get into it, the more it sounds like a good deal, My little shop is just that, little, but ive got enough room to set this up, Id like to ask you who have done it, could you share some pictures of some of the things you-all have done? Id like to see some of the finished parts to get a better idea on some things. With that ill add a please! and a

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Ive been doing some studying on this and seems the more i get into it, the more it sounds like a good deal, My little shop is just that, little, but ive got enough room to set this up, Id like to ask you who have done it, could you share some pictures of some of the things you-all have done? Id like to see some of the finished parts to get a better idea on some things. With that ill add a please! and a

Hey Ron, I'm off on furlough today so had some time to get a few things out of the way and do a little blasting and powdercoating. The powdercoating itself doesn't take as long as the prep, same as painting, but unlike painting, as soon as your parts have cooled off, they are ready to re-install.

Before the peanut gallery chimes in, I know these are not the "correct" finish colors if you were to be doing a "factory correct" restoration. You can get different color powders to get a more "correct" color, but this works for my taste.

You will want to keep the powder from getting on/in threads as the powder does build up thickness. I tape or put a tape plug on threads and will run a tap or die over them before I install. You will see in the pic of the gas pedal bracket a spot that didn't get coated after it was applied , no problem, just rehang the part with the exposed area showing and give it another coat.
Clean up is simple, just sweep or vacumm up the residual powder and your done!
Powders are readily available, I use the Matte Black from Harbour Frieght for a lot of what I do.
The finish is superior to paint IMO as it will not scratch easily. Brake fluid won't harm the finish either.

 

[Ron 73]

Wow, thanks Ken, those parts look great. this is getting more and more interesting.. I will be reading up some more but i like the way your parts look, great job on them! Only space would limit what you can do, what parts? Thanks again.

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Wow, thanks Ken, those parts look great. this is getting more and more interesting.. I will be reading up some more but i like the way your parts look, great job on them! Only space would limit what you can do, what parts? Thanks again.

If it fits in the oven, it can be done. Eastwood also makes an Infra-red light setup to cure larger parts a section at a time. Kind of pricey though. If I ever get the rear back out of the 67, I would probably send it out and have it done.

 

[CudaChick1968]

Wow, this thread sure brings back some memories.

Guys, please avoid those UV lamps if you can. They result in extremely uneven temperatures which cause improper curing, especially on large parts. Save your money and get a big oven somehow if you want to expand to bumpers, rear ends and dash frames.

Though it isn't much, you can instantly gain a little more room out of your oven -- up to a few inches -- if you remove the interior panel that covers the door insulation and get it out of there. Before I built my seven-foot batch oven, I lost jobs over a mere inch and a half! I've been there so I know what you're going through.

68Sport, it's a little tough to tell from your photos but I'm going to say this anyhow. A really good practice to get into is not using the same oven rack to cure as you do to shoot your powders on. Shoot on one rack and then transfer the parts to a clean one. Unless you blast them and your jigs clean after every cure, what will eventually happen over time is that the overspray will build up on the rack. Then, every time you use it, that old overspray continues to cure, becomes brittle, flakes off and falls all over your parts ... probably just about the time it's starting to flow out.

 

[Ron 73]

Thanks again Ken and to you cuda chick, im liking this! Learned quite a bit more today..

 

[CudaChick1968]

You're very welcome Ron. I'm always happy to help if I can.

 

[Ron 73]

No reading hear but this is one of some videos ive seen trying to learn more on all this. I thought maybe this intake might help one of you hear thats interested in this as well... This one in particular, im really not sure of, i like it but i would like to see others.. Along with valve covers, My main interest will be front end parts when bushings are replaced and all the brackets on engine, but these things are good to know to for future plans. I picked these in particular because they to could be done in an oven..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OABJHFVAieM&feature=related

 

[scotts74birds]

Thanks guys, very interesting! Gotta say, as a customer, there are some things coaters need to do. I had some Harley rims and hubs done in gloss black. Use a proper silicone plug in my spoke holes. I dont like reaming 160 ******* holes! The guy used masking tape to plug them from behind. 1 hour scraping off baked-on masking tape! Other than that, I am very happy with my black rims, stainless spokes, and old skool Firestone and Speedmaster tires