bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Does anyone know what the primary and secondary jet sizes are out of the box for a 800?
Anyone with an Edelbrock 800 cfm?
- Thread starter bigmanjbmopar
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SUPERSTOCKRACER
Well-Known Member
i agree, i run them also.
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bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Right now I am at 104's in the primarys and stock in the secondarys. We had a unajustable rich condition that was fixes by getting down to those jets and different rods still tweaking it but at least we can use the a/f mix screws to make adjustments. Have a little lean condition now but can fix it with one size up. When we took the carb apart we found one of the floats flat on the deck. Little things you don't know until you tear inyo them.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Seems so huh...we tried every combo with the jets until we got down to those and could tune then jumped back up to 104's. it is at the softest meter rod spring now i am going to try one size up spring and rod see what happens. I keep wanting to jump up to the 107's but we had tried that and lost the A/F tuning ability so now it's down to A/F screw turns and rod / spring changes for now see what happens. Funny how this carb came out of the box with the largest and highest of everything. like race ready good thing I guess if your revving to 4 grand and launching lol was not tunable out of the box.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Just noticed you have dual fuel feed lines? never knew that had that was it a kit?
fugly
Well-Known Member
Try this - (copy of part of one of my white papers)
These springs and rods control the power mixture- VERY similar to the Holley power valve. The lighter the spring, the faster , or lower vacuum level they close at . Manifold vacuum controls them-at a high vacuum( idle or cruise) they are held closed by the vacuum. When vacuum drops sufficiently, the spring overpowers it and opens, or raises the rod. The tip of the rod is smaller and therefore richens the mixture. The trick is to have them closed at idle and cruise, and open as soon as the vacuum drops signaling more load. Most performance engines seem to like the orange spring or one close to it. To check it requires a helper. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU RUNNING OVER YOURSELF-WITH OR WITHOUT HELP!! Here is a way to check it and get close without 246 trips around the block. Unscrew the metering rod covers just enough to turn the covers-turn them to expose about half of the little piston and retighten the screws enough to keep the lids from rattling around.-GENTLY-or you will bend the covers. Start the car -see the little pistons go down? Now have your helper put it in gear (brakes on) – do they stay down? If not, you need lighter springs until they do. To change them, unscrew the plates and remove the pistons and rods-the spring is under the pistons-a magnet or small screwdriver will get them out. Put the next lightest spring in and try again until they stay down. Now comes the fun (dangerous) part-repeat the test only this time have your helper gun the car hard enough to hit the stall speed and let off quickly- make sure your hood doesn't slam you in the head- watch the piston as he lets off- it should jump up and return down…if it doesn't go a little heavier on the spring- if you are out of options, stretch the ones in there just a little bit
Also make sure your floats are not set too high ,,,and timing- many times (ESPECIALLY WITH LONG DURATION cams) your timing being too low at idle will cause this issue
These springs and rods control the power mixture- VERY similar to the Holley power valve. The lighter the spring, the faster , or lower vacuum level they close at . Manifold vacuum controls them-at a high vacuum( idle or cruise) they are held closed by the vacuum. When vacuum drops sufficiently, the spring overpowers it and opens, or raises the rod. The tip of the rod is smaller and therefore richens the mixture. The trick is to have them closed at idle and cruise, and open as soon as the vacuum drops signaling more load. Most performance engines seem to like the orange spring or one close to it. To check it requires a helper. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU RUNNING OVER YOURSELF-WITH OR WITHOUT HELP!! Here is a way to check it and get close without 246 trips around the block. Unscrew the metering rod covers just enough to turn the covers-turn them to expose about half of the little piston and retighten the screws enough to keep the lids from rattling around.-GENTLY-or you will bend the covers. Start the car -see the little pistons go down? Now have your helper put it in gear (brakes on) – do they stay down? If not, you need lighter springs until they do. To change them, unscrew the plates and remove the pistons and rods-the spring is under the pistons-a magnet or small screwdriver will get them out. Put the next lightest spring in and try again until they stay down. Now comes the fun (dangerous) part-repeat the test only this time have your helper gun the car hard enough to hit the stall speed and let off quickly- make sure your hood doesn't slam you in the head- watch the piston as he lets off- it should jump up and return down…if it doesn't go a little heavier on the spring- if you are out of options, stretch the ones in there just a little bit
Also make sure your floats are not set too high ,,,and timing- many times (ESPECIALLY WITH LONG DURATION cams) your timing being too low at idle will cause this issue
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Nice read and that test make sense. I changed from the lightest blue spring to the next size up which is yellow and jumped up to the 7047 rod size took her out last nigh and the idle seemed better but hard to get a large cam with mech advance distrib to idle in drive. I have the stock stall converter in the 727 so right now I think I have all I can get out of it until I change the converter out to at least a 1500 then the fine tune points will start to seem more effective I think.
fugly
Well-Known Member
how much advance are you running (idle and max) and what's the duration on the cam?- you may want to read this-http://www.diamondbackengines.com/technical-white-papers/ignition-101/
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
about 12-15 initial and around 40 total, trust me the timing thing is in a whole other thread about the 440source distrib I bought! Chinese crap. Cam is the comp cam extreme energy 23-710-9 instead of me typing this all out just look at the picture lol
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
yup need to bump it up money tree is harvested for this year lol.
bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Speaking of which who can recommend the correct torque converter for my application? I was told 1500 - 1800 TCI makes a good 2000? Stock is 600?
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