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Are all 383 blocks the same?

69redrunner

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I would like to pick up a 69 383 block to rebuild with a mild street performance for my 69 RR. The car currently has a 70 440 in it.

I found a guy locally that has a 69 date coded 383. He's not sure what its out of, but says it is complete and has a 2bbl carb on it. He thinks it has a couple burned valves.

Is there any difference in the block that would have gone into a 2bbl Satellite Vs. a 4bbl Roadrunner?

He's asking $100 for the motor, seem like a fair price.....any thoughts?
 
Buy it , They are not makeing them anymore, I know around here its hard to find any mopar parts , Called local junkyards and they laugh at you for any thing older than 1990. I paid 500 for a 44o bare block.
 
I would like to pick up a 69 383 block to rebuild with a mild street performance for my 69 RR. The car currently has a 70 440 in it.

I found a guy locally that has a 69 date coded 383. He's not sure what its out of, but says it is complete and has a 2bbl carb on it. He thinks it has a couple burned valves.

Is there any difference in the block that would have gone into a 2bbl Satellite Vs. a 4bbl Roadrunner?

He's asking $100 for the motor, seem like a fair price.....any thoughts?
Only difference I know of is a block has HP stamped on it? The blocks are the same. No blocks were built with a higher nickle content or thicker cylinder walls than any of the others.

Buy it , They are not makeing them anymore, I know around here its hard to find any mopar parts , Called local junkyards and they laugh at you for any thing older than 1990. I paid 500 for a 44o bare block.
Damn, wish you lived closer to me lol. Just sold a .030 over block that was still in good shape for 150.
 
The 69 and 70 blocks are the same but the earlier 383s (66 back I think) are different.
 
You can't go wrong with a late 60's to 71 383 block.

Yep, there was an RB 383 but those were old when dirt was new.
 
I don't think you can go wrong for $100. Not too much of an investment even if it doesn't work out.
 
383

do u still have the 383 engine, is it stock and how much.
 
Seeing this thread makes me question the direction I am going. I have a 383 2bl that runs excellent in my 69 Coronet but have been searching and acquiring 440 components for a transplant. Is there that much to gain by stepping up to a 440 OR would I be better off just to build the 383 with high performance goodies internally? I had a 383 magnum in my 68 Super Bee in high school and loved that motor, just thought stepping up would be a dramatic increase. I am not looking for track time, just fun on the streets with a great sound....what do you think gents?
 
First, I believe 383 blocks are the same. Except as stated the early ones, prior to mid 60's. Camshafts and a few other differences made the distinction between the regular and hp stamps. If you can get the numbers off the block and search those, it will tell you what years and vehicles that block would or should have gone in.
I see you're picking it up. Great! For a 100 bucks you really can't go wrong. Good luck!

Mocajava, here's a charts with bore / stroke comparison. I've got a 69 383 that I'm stroking a 400 to replace it with. My 383 was not rebuilt right and doesn't go well. I definitely would look at the 440! I can't get the chart to post correctly!!


Low block "b".
Bore Stroke. CID.

4.06 3.38. 350
4.12". 3.38. 361
4.25" 3.38". 383
4.34" 3.38". 400

Raised block "rb"
Bore. Stroke. CID

4.18". 3.75". 413
4.25". 3.75". 426
4.32". 3.75". 440
 
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I have a complete 383 out of a 66 Chrysler what would be the difference then a later 383??
 
I am by no means an expert on all things mopar. I did some research back when I realized my 383 was struggling and wanted to make sure the p.o. Put it together with the correct parts!! I found this in the process ....Here's an article explains the earlier than mid 60's RB 383

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html
 
Xp29h...all things considered, would you go to the trouble of replacing your 383 if it had been built right? Is there that much difference between the 383HP and 440HP to venture 4-6 K additional? I think it was only 40 horse difference in the rating (if I remember right) and that might be worth it for a racing engine...but not for just a street cruiser. Just my opinion as I am building this for fun....Mocajava
 
Xp29h...all things considered, would you go to the trouble of replacing your 383 if it had been built right? Is there that much difference between the 383HP and 440HP to venture 4-6 K additional? I think it was only 40 horse difference in the rating (if I remember right) and that might be worth it for a racing engine...but not for just a street cruiser. Just my opinion as I am building this for fun....Mocajava

i would stick with your 383. i have a built 383 in my 69 RR and it rips up the pavement!
 
I like short stroke engines and the 383 will rev faster than a longer stroke engine since the rotating mass is lighter. In a lighter car, this can mean a smaller engine with a shorter stroke can be just as quick as a longer stroke engine. Now vehicle weight will also play a part in the equation. Heavy cars benefit from the torque of the longer stroke engine. That said, it's pretty easy to build an engine with 1hp per cubic inch and still be a mild package......so in a cruiser, the 440 wins with an extra 57 hp but in reality, torque usually wins the game. Now how heavy is your car....? A buddy and I played with his 72 318 Demon and pulled down some 13.50 numbers @ 102 mph using a stock converter but lots of gear. A 4.88 to be exact. A cruiser it wasn't but not many believed us that it was a teen and I've seen some mild big blocks that wouldn't bust a 13.99. The Demon was pretty mild with a .480 cam which really isn't all that small for a 318. The car weighed 2950 and only cut a 2.20 60 foot. Yep...slower than Christmas off the line using that stock converter. So, you already have the 383? Why not use it. It'll work just fine.
 
Mocajava,

To truly answer the question... No I wouldn't. If my 383 was right, I probably wouldn't even be thinking of doing what I'm doing! So I'd be running it as is. My car is just a street car, no strip racing. But I figure if I need to do something with my motor (which I do, 7.2:1 compression and can't get out of own way of start) and not knowing what's in the bottom end of my 383, I might as well do it big. That's also why I went with 400 block. The car is not numbers matching so I don't mind putting the 400 in it. Here's an article that's a good read.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-9809-451-mopar-stroker-engine-build/
If your 383 runs good and your happy with it, it will do very well. It will be a lot cheaper to take care of that one!
 
Guys if anyone is interested I have a 69 383 hp motor with its 906 heads still it's all apart but I think it's all there minus valve covers . I'm in fl though I have no need for it as I prefer small blocks . Joesbee is heading up north soon might be able to give him a few bucks and hitch a ride up with him .

- - - Updated - - -

I know he's going up to see habib so p.a. not sure where else he's going I heard he's getting a roof from Joel maybe? P.m. me if interested
 
Mocajava,

To truly answer the question... No I wouldn't. If my 383 was right, I probably wouldn't even be thinking of doing what I'm doing! So I'd be running it as is. My car is just a street car, no strip racing. But I figure if I need to do something with my motor (which I do, 7.2:1 compression and can't get out of own way of start) and not knowing what's in the bottom end of my 383, I might as well do it big. That's also why I went with 400 block. The car is not numbers matching so I don't mind putting the 400 in it. Here's an article that's a good read.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-9809-451-mopar-stroker-engine-build/
If your 383 runs good and your happy with it, it will do very well. It will be a lot cheaper to take care of that one!

If you do not know what is in the bottom end how did you come by the compression ratio?
 
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