b body subframe ties

[dan brown]

I have a 64 fury with a 70 440 and an 871. I would like to stiffen up the subframes to prevent torsional twisting. I have seen several methods on this forum but have questions as to the "correct" way to do this. I have noticed in a couple of threads about welding the tubing to the floor of the body. In my mind this doesn't seem necessary or even advantageous to what is trying to be accomplished. The body has minimal structural integrity in my thinking, so wouldn't it be better to leave the body out of the equation and instead just tie the front subframe to the rear subframe with a structural tubing with maybe a cross member front and rear between the two. please enlighten me as to the correct way of doing this and what material is best. I recently joined this forum and really enjoy reading about peoples projects and mopar enthusiasm. Thanks

 

[Mogre]

I purchased mine from my Chrysler dealer. They could be bolted in but I had them welded in. Makes a big difference and highly recommended. Be sure to have all the wheels on the ground before welding. I used a drive on hoist at a muffler shop.

 

[coloradodave]

I elected to go with the US Cartools subframe connectors. These are fully welded to the floor of the car. There must be some 'structural rigidity' since Chrysler elected not to use full frames under these cars. I imagine that just welding them front and rear and adding crossmembers would also do the trick, but the added weight and hassle of dealing with the driveline would become factors. Your choice. Good luck with whichever way you go.

 

[Dennis H]

X2 on the USCartool Connectors.

 

[fatecaptured]

http://www.amazon.com/B-Body-Performance-Upgrades-1962-79-Design/dp/1934709301 Andy talks about this topic in his book.

 

[malex]

I have made and installed several pairs of frame connectors over the years. US Cartool makes ones that look the same as the ones I make. Attaching them to the front and rear frame and welding them to the floor boards completes the rigidity.

I have installed 2 pairs of frame connectors while the car has been completely disassembled and on a rotisserie. Another set were installed with the car sitting level and complete. I've had no problems in doing them either way, although I have read lots of different lines of thought on this and I'm sure there will be some comments posted explaining this point.

The connectors certainly does add rigidity though, that's for sure. When you can adjust fender/ door gap on a car without connectors with a floor jack under the car, that's telling you something.. View attachment 243551

 

[dan brown]

thanks to all of you for your replys. I own a fabrication facility so I will be able to fabricate these pieces. ..Malex.. thanks for the pics..looks like you do awesome work. Are you interested in an authentic 1964 Fury 426 street wedge car? I have one. LOTS of rust. Kind of a daunting project for me.

 

[Dodge 330]

We did simple 2x2 tubing for mine as new floorpans had been put in and I really didn't want to cut the rear footwells.

Cut open the leading edge of the rear framerails and slid them in. Front torsion bar crossmember has a small plate welded to it and the tubing butt welded to that.

COMPLETELY changed the rigidity of the car..

 

[malex]

Hi Dan. Thanks for the offer on the Fury, it sounds interesting. I haven't thought about another project after I finish this one but hmmm, interesting..

Dodge 330's connectors sound easy to do and very effective. You can't go wrong by adding some strength into that body with all that HP you have.

 

[dan brown]

Thanks again Malex..The car is fairly complete. This was an east coast (conneticut) vehicle and sat in storage for many years so was subjected to a leaky shed and salt water air. It is straight however. I have a few good extra pieces for it. (cowl and firewall, quarterpanel , , inner front fender and a partial floorpan). Unfortunately the original engine is gone. I do have a correct date coded max wedge that I might consider selling also. If you are ever interested send me an email address and I will respond with some pics. [email protected]
Regards
Dan
FYI I am located in Montana

 

[HT413]

You definitely want to tie them in with the body - remember these are unibody cars, so the body IS the chassis, which is why there are no frame rails in these spots to begin with. Also, tying them in with the body will help keep the subframe connectors themselves from flexing from the stress.

 

[snakeoil24]

I have done one of these recently I would recommend you buy square stock and channel it to the front and rear sub frames. Avoid the type that you weld to the floor. If you do want the added strength then you need to channel into the floor. Once you have that done then flange the stock to the floors. Using standard L bracket stock. Anytime you weld to sheet metal you need a flange to weld too. Just corner welding those us car tool type of connectors do not give the correct strength in my opinion. Also when you install connectors make sure they parallel the rockers to get correct torsional support with front and rear sub frames.

But again opinions are like ******** every one has one but not everyone knows all!

 

[66Satellite47]

The frame connectors add a ton of stiffness. My experience is with the method that cuts the 2x3 into the floor pan in the rear footwell area. Works great but lots of tedious work to get good close fit. If I did it again I'd use 2x2 below the floor pan but use angle flanges to the floor in a few spots taking advantage of the stock ribs & folds that give the stock arrangement the stiffness it does have. If you want the wider tires move the springs into the frame rails at the same time.

 

[dan brown]

thanks..I like your idea about the angle at the rib areas in the floor. This will make it much easier in my thinking without having to channel to fit all the different contours in the floor. The angle is easily adjusted for the correct height along the side of the square tubing. Thanks to everyone here for their very helpful posts. I will try to have a pic of my car posted soon.